DIY rear bar/wheel carrier

here's the link..........

tcm.foo.cc/gallery/Rear-bar

Hope it helps......

Thanks Adrian, lots of great photos there. Its safe to say though, that Daniel is much better at working with steel than I. Maybe the price of rear carriers are looking more justified given my more pedestrian talents.

Is this the same Daniel who has the rear storage photos. If so this is a very talented bloke. Wish I could do that.

That was supposed to be a link to the awesome rear storage system Daniel has built. It is there under the rear storge sub heading. Sorry for the stuff up.

Weight is the big issue I believe. I have a Opp Lock dual carrier and it is quite amazing how much lighter the big barn door is to close/open when the weight of the wheel/tyre is not hangin' off it!!!

As to the question.......staub axle/s that match your trailer (assuming you have one) would be a good start...that is what Opp Lock use. The stub is welded top and bottom..it goes right through the bar.

On mine, there was no extra bits of plastic for the inner guards etc. You don't need to have anything there really, although it's a good idea to place something like heavy rubber sheet (tractor tube) in front of the tail light assemblies so they don't get hit by stones. This is also a good idea even for vehicles with the standard rear bumper bar IMHO.

I believe Wayne (NSW) made his own dual wheel carrier/rear bar from scratch for his troopy.

Hope this helps. If you were in SA I'd be happy to let you take measurements etc from mine and copy/improve on it. ;-)))

Cheers

Roachie

Hi Scoey, I would like to take the 2nd spare off the roof, and don't like all that weight hanging off the rear door. Worried it's eventually going to crack.

Thanks Roachie, I was thinking along the lines of using a piece of rhs and running it into the plastic trims at either end and attatching them to it, dicing the alloy step altogether. I haven't pulled the back of the car apart or anything yet so I might be dreaming that its a practical solution.

Hi Pete, I just wonder if its worth going to all the trouble for a "one off" using a stub axle setup. I think just using a length of steam pipe, say 30 inside diameter, 6mm wall, and machine a shaft to suit, a 6mm brass washer underneath the swinging mechanism, a grease nipple in the middle and there you have it. i guess if you dont have access to a lathe you are in the same boat as you mentioned but it would be a much simpler machining job so it would be easier to get someone to do it. If its a fiddly job, it probably would be expensive as opposed to someone running a adjustable reamer down the steam pipe and machining a shaft to suit.. My thoughts only from an engineering background.. Michael

The two I made for the back of the humvee have been on there for nearly 4 years now and I haven't had to touch them repair or maintenance wise. They both use stubs & hubs, one has the spare wheel and the other has two jerrycans.
the bearing setup with stubs will never wear out or require any maintenance unless you submerge it for an extended period.
I have seen one made by welding the stub axle to the carrier and mounting the cast hub in the bar. This removes the need for any machining but the pivot poit ends up closer to the vehicle body and away from the edge unless you trim the cast trailer hub. It was bolted to the bar using three of the studs.
the downside is that the seal on the hub will ahve water and dirt sitting on it and seeping in unless the stub has a rain hat flange to deflect water and dirt.

Hi JD. It's just an idea at the moment and I am in the same boat as you re the house. I'll have to finish painting and get the bathroom sorted or else sneak out to the shed and do it a bit at a time. At this stage I'm a gunner. Actually Penny says I'm a bit that way with the house as well.