DIY rear bar/wheel carrier

Submitted: Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 13:05
ThreadID: 32347 Views:12018 Replies:6 FollowUps:9
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I would love a rear carrier for the back of our GU Patrol so as to get the spare off the door, but can't afford the price of a manufactured one. I was wondering if anyone has made one, and if so, do they have any tips/pics?
I have a drop saw grinders and mig etc so wouldnt mind having a bash. The trickiest bit looks to be getting it to match the rear guard on a GU. Do you use the original plastic trim at the back of the rear panels or go with something else? Also what is the best bearing set up for the carriers?
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Reply By: Member - Adrian S (VIC) - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 13:58

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 13:58
One has been done by a member on the overlander forum.........will try to get you a link.

Was done by TCM if you get over there and do a search.
AnswerID: 163881

Follow Up By: Member - Adrian S (VIC) - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 14:04

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 14:04
here's the link..........

Hope it helps......
FollowupID: 418663

Follow Up By: warthog - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 21:17

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 21:17
Thanks Adrian, lots of great photos there. Its safe to say though, that Daniel is much better at working with steel than I. Maybe the price of rear carriers are looking more justified given my more pedestrian talents.
FollowupID: 418775

Follow Up By: warthog - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:33

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:33
Is this the same Daniel who has the rear storage photos. If so this is a very talented bloke. Wish I could do that.
FollowupID: 418808

Follow Up By: warthog - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:37

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:37
That was supposed to be a link to the awesome rear storage system Daniel has built. It is there under the rear storge sub heading. Sorry for the stuff up.
FollowupID: 418809

Reply By: Scoey (QLD) - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 15:00

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 15:00
Hey Warthog, just curious but if your spare is aleady on the back of the rig, why bother with a wheel carrier (unless of course you want dual carriers). I guess I'm asking this question of all fourby owners that do this. I have an 80 Series and dream of getting the spare out from underneath and up on the back but like you say it's an expensive exercise! Not knocking you at all - just curious! Probably a bloody obvious reason! haha!
AnswerID: 163889

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 16:25

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 16:25
Weight is the big issue I believe. I have a Opp Lock dual carrier and it is quite amazing how much lighter the big barn door is to close/open when the weight of the wheel/tyre is not hangin' off it!!!

As to the question.......staub axle/s that match your trailer (assuming you have one) would be a good start...that is what Opp Lock use. The stub is welded top and goes right through the bar.

On mine, there was no extra bits of plastic for the inner guards etc. You don't need to have anything there really, although it's a good idea to place something like heavy rubber sheet (tractor tube) in front of the tail light assemblies so they don't get hit by stones. This is also a good idea even for vehicles with the standard rear bumper bar IMHO.

I believe Wayne (NSW) made his own dual wheel carrier/rear bar from scratch for his troopy.

Hope this helps. If you were in SA I'd be happy to let you take measurements etc from mine and copy/improve on it. ;-)))


FollowupID: 418694

Follow Up By: warthog - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 21:30

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 21:30
Hi Scoey, I would like to take the 2nd spare off the roof, and don't like all that weight hanging off the rear door. Worried it's eventually going to crack.

Thanks Roachie, I was thinking along the lines of using a piece of rhs and running it into the plastic trims at either end and attatching them to it, dicing the alloy step altogether. I haven't pulled the back of the car apart or anything yet so I might be dreaming that its a practical solution.
FollowupID: 418783

Reply By: Peter 2 - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 17:16

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 17:16
I've made a couple, the biggest problem is getting a steel hub machined to take the bearings, Formula Off road make them and will sell them to individuals, the stub is a standard 300mm stub from a trailer place.
If you know someone with a lathe that can machine a hub for you all the better.
I got them made 10 at a time, they are all gone now.
You can't weld to a cast trailer hub but I have seen one made using the wheel studs to attach the carrier.
AnswerID: 163907

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 20:56

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 20:56
Hi Pete, I just wonder if its worth going to all the trouble for a "one off" using a stub axle setup. I think just using a length of steam pipe, say 30 inside diameter, 6mm wall, and machine a shaft to suit, a 6mm brass washer underneath the swinging mechanism, a grease nipple in the middle and there you have it. i guess if you dont have access to a lathe you are in the same boat as you mentioned but it would be a much simpler machining job so it would be easier to get someone to do it. If its a fiddly job, it probably would be expensive as opposed to someone running a adjustable reamer down the steam pipe and machining a shaft to suit.. My thoughts only from an engineering background.. Michael
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FollowupID: 418767

Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Friday, Mar 31, 2006 at 16:04

Friday, Mar 31, 2006 at 16:04
The two I made for the back of the humvee have been on there for nearly 4 years now and I haven't had to touch them repair or maintenance wise. They both use stubs & hubs, one has the spare wheel and the other has two jerrycans.
the bearing setup with stubs will never wear out or require any maintenance unless you submerge it for an extended period.
I have seen one made by welding the stub axle to the carrier and mounting the cast hub in the bar. This removes the need for any machining but the pivot poit ends up closer to the vehicle body and away from the edge unless you trim the cast trailer hub. It was bolted to the bar using three of the studs.
the downside is that the seal on the hub will ahve water and dirt sitting on it and seeping in unless the stub has a rain hat flange to deflect water and dirt.
FollowupID: 418961

Reply By: Member JD- Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 17:51

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 17:51
Hi Warthog,

I just had a look,at the one made by the other bloke, and you can pick up the stubs from supercrap or a trailer place and make them fit just like the bloke on the other forum has done..there's a lot of work making this bar..lot of grinding linishing to get the profesional apperance..but will be a good least you will know why they ask so much money for them..good luck I'll be interested in following your progress so if you decide to go ahead post pictures as you go...I have this in my sights as well but have to clear a backlog of jobs around the house first...all the best mate..Hope it turns out perfect or that close it doesnt matter!
AnswerID: 163915

Follow Up By: warthog - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:03

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 22:03
Hi JD. It's just an idea at the moment and I am in the same boat as you re the house. I'll have to finish painting and get the bathroom sorted or else sneak out to the shed and do it a bit at a time. At this stage I'm a gunner. Actually Penny says I'm a bit that way with the house as well.
FollowupID: 418801

Reply By: drew - Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 19:05

Thursday, Mar 30, 2006 at 19:05
I made one a couple of years back for my 80 Series. Email me at and I will send you some photos. It is a lot of mucking around, but well worth it.
AnswerID: 163932

Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Friday, Mar 31, 2006 at 06:22

Friday, Mar 31, 2006 at 06:22
When I built the wheel carrier for the back of the Troopie I got 2 stub axle and hubs from a auto accessories shop. I went for the ones that take HQ Holden bearings.

Once the bumper section was made the stub axle was welded into position. It is very important to get the stub axle in a position that is square to the bar.

Before I made this bar I changed the bar that was on the 80 Series from a pipe and shaft set up after it wore out to a stub axle set up. I also converted the single wheel carrier to a dual carrier.

The main reason that I made my own was the cost of a store brought one. About $3000 for a dual wheel carrier for a Troopie, the one I made cost about $350 for parts that I didn't make. Also the satisfaction of making something from scratch.

The end caps from the bumper should be able to fit the new bar if it is made to suit them and that should fix that part of the bar.

AnswerID: 164019

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