5L Head on a 3L Hilux motor?

Submitted: Saturday, Apr 08, 2006 at 09:17
ThreadID: 32670 Views:7926 Replies:2 FollowUps:2
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Talking to a mate last night and he has cracked the head on his 3L 2.8D Hilux motor. The guy he took it to suggested fitting the head off of a 5L 3.0l because bigger valves and whatnot give more power. He asked if i knew anything about it (which I dont) so i said i would post it here
TA
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Reply By: Kiwi Ray - Saturday, Apr 08, 2006 at 09:41

Saturday, Apr 08, 2006 at 09:41
Hi Davoe. If it fits OK then I suppose it would be the same as we used to do a few years ago , that was a port and pollish. The larger vales would help the engine to breathe better. You would need to check that the valve heads and piston crowns have adequate clearance. Thats my thoughts
Ray
AnswerID: 165770

Reply By: V8Diesel - Saturday, Apr 08, 2006 at 21:29

Saturday, Apr 08, 2006 at 21:29
Well would you believe it, I just assembled a 3L motor yesterday. Dead set.

I'd be super careful with the head swap as there is SFA piston clearance. The head gaskets come in three sizes - 1.45mm, 1.55mm & 1.65mm. I measured piston clearance with a dial gauge to bring into spec.

Other things to be aware of on the 3L are harmonic balancers. They tend to crap themselves and cause mayhem including causing timing belts to jump teeth. I strongly suggest renewing it when the timing belt cover comes off.

Now is also the time for a water pump too if keeping the vehicle as a long term proposition. Timing belt is a must as well.

There's a set of extractors sitting around that the owner may want to sell if your mate's interested.

AnswerID: 165868

Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Widgiemooltha) - Sunday, Apr 09, 2006 at 07:46

Sunday, Apr 09, 2006 at 07:46
Thanks I will pass that info on to my Mate in Adelaide. The guy doing the work for him reckons he has done it before but I was a bit suss as tojos aint neccesseraly known for their interchangable parts like the old holdens. The reason the head cracked was due to a catostrophic water pump failure
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FollowupID: 420815

Follow Up By: V8Diesel - Sunday, Apr 09, 2006 at 08:34

Sunday, Apr 09, 2006 at 08:34
Steel head, must have got pretty hot.

One other thing, if the vehicle has AC tell him to make sure he does the bolt up on the twin heater pipes that run alongside the RHS of the head BEFORE putting on the AC bracket and tensioning the alternator and AC belts. Major bleep er doing it the other way.

Also, the starter motor is best removed (to lock flywheel) with about 800mm of 3/8" drive extensions and a uni-joint as the top bolt is about 80mm long with a very fine pitch thread. A ringy will only allow a quarter turn which makes for a very boring and time consuming task.

A 3 or 4 foot long cheater bar is a worthwhile addition as the head torque settings require an intial torque wrench up to a specified amount, then two further tightens of 90 degrees. This makes for a far smoother, easier and more accurate job. I also paint mark the head bolts from 1 to 18 so the tightening sequence is much easier instead of constantly refering back to the book.

The fan shroud is best removed with the fan at the same time, as the radiator has a fixed crossover pipe which gets in the way if you try and take it out holus bolus.

Empty 45-70 brass is a PERFECT interference fit on the injectors to keep them clean and dust free. 45LC and 45 ACP would do the job too. ;-)
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FollowupID: 420818

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