Patrol 3.0 L TD re - EGT and Boost Gauges

Submitted: Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 17:48
ThreadID: 33612 Views:7680 Replies:5 FollowUps:21
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thought id ask if any kind soul in Brisbane who has had this done can tell me who and where i can get both an EGT gauge and a Boost gauge fitted to a 2004 series 4 nissan patrol 3.0 L TD in Brisbane - I thought maybe Moxons but did not get a chance to ring them on friday to see if they do it or not
obviously i dont want to get a nissan dealer to do it if i can avoid it
decided i d like to have the gauges as I do tow a very fully loaded KK mariner
ok thanks and see you

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Reply By: Member - Andrew(WA) - Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 20:30

Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 20:30
can't help with your question gregr but was just wondering what difference these guages will make to anything? why do people install them?

I have a 2002 3.0Tdi Patrol and towed a 1.5 ton van around Oz without a problem! What difference will the guages make?

Excuse my ignorance...but that's what the forum is for....aint it?

AnswerID: 171193

Follow Up By: Exploder - Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 20:55

Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 20:55
It will help to indicate any running abnormalities like over boosting from the turbo and running temperatures.
FollowupID: 426658

Follow Up By: angler - Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 21:07

Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 21:07

Do you have any guages in your truck? I find the speedo handy at times and also the rev counter is good. The fuel guage helps a lot during along trip. I would also like a boost guage and probably a volmeter. I also wonder if there is any convenient point where I could take off an oil pressure guage.

A boost guage is my first project with my patrol.

FollowupID: 426662

Follow Up By: Member - Andrew(WA) - Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 21:13

Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 21:13

You're clearly a very clever individual. You must be a mechanic with the wealth of knowledge you display!

I on the hand am not a mechanic and that's why ask the question. Thanks for your help with 'fuel guage' response especially! I thought it meant my battery was running out of power as it approached the red bit at one end!

FollowupID: 426664

Follow Up By: Off-track - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 00:36

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 00:36
To give you an idea how hard the engine is working and just maybe to let you know the 3.0 is about to blow.
FollowupID: 426702

Follow Up By: Ian from Thermoguard Instruments - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 08:58

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 08:58
Hi Andrew,

For a good 'users' perspective on these gauges, have a read of Motherhen's recent post 33438. Also, you might like to visit my website and download the 'ThermoGuard EGT Information Sheet'

By the way, Motherhen doesn't have one of my gauges and has no connection to Thermoguard.

[Motherhen, if you're reading this, did you ever receive my reply to your 'proofreading' offer of few months ago?]

FollowupID: 426723

Follow Up By: Kenell - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:33

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:33
I returned from my "big lap" trip in November. I also towed about 1500kgs of camper with my 2002 GU 3.0l. As I expected it performed flawlessly. Economical, efficient, a real delight over some pretty rugged country. It ticked over 100,000ks in late Feb 06 and I have been without it ever since while Nissan and I debate who should pay to replace the faulty cylinder head. I did not take up the extended warranty as I had only had one issue during the warranty - a $2 fuse. The cyl head was a bad casting and was always going to fail, unfortunately it chose 3 months beyond the warranty to do it. I have been a staunch advocate of this engine despite the stats and the vast army of detractors. I am now a very disenchanted, nervous and confused 3.0l owner who is getting fitter each day from walking. I think that the aforementioned guages are a great idea. They weren't required to detect my problem but I think you need all the warning devices you can reasonably install on these engines. If you have been without incident on yours I hope you continue to enjoy your vehicle - when they are going they are teriffic.

FollowupID: 426744

Follow Up By: Member - Andrew(WA) - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:52

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:52
Thanks Ian...

And Kenell, I hope Nissan come to the party for you. If you've stuck to the service intervals I think they will. How could they not if the fault was 'pre-existing'???
Lets hope so anyway.

What is the build date of yours Kenell...could it be a design fault in batch made around the same time?
FollowupID: 426747

Follow Up By: Kenell - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 20:53

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 20:53

Mine has a build date of 08/02 and first reg 11/02. Every service was done at a Nissan dealership within 1000ks of being due. I have done a bit of enquiring and one dealer has told me they supply new heads on a regular basis - the parts guy knew the price without looking it up !!

Thanks for your wishes.

FollowupID: 426828

Follow Up By: Leroy - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 21:59

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 21:59

I would take your issue up with the dept of fair trading. Regardless of the length of warranty, you expect longer service than 3yrs and 3 months OR 100k kms for an engine and as a result you would have to be sucessful if you took your case there.

FollowupID: 426841

Follow Up By: Motherhen - Monday, May 08, 2006 at 21:49

Monday, May 08, 2006 at 21:49
Hi Kenell - sorry to hear of your 3 litre misfortune. We are suspicious as to how long ours will last, has done 19,000 over the 100,000 most of it towing a van heavier than yours. With the knowledge gained from this forum, do keep fighting Nissan. Who diagnosed the head was faulty? What were the circumstances of if failing? It sound like this is a different scenario that the earlier models blowing their motors.

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FollowupID: 427046

Follow Up By: Kenell - Monday, May 08, 2006 at 22:20

Monday, May 08, 2006 at 22:20

The problem presented as a loss of coolant. Hydrocarbons were found in the oil and so the investigation commenced. The cylinder head was removed and sent to an engineering shop where they found the casting fault. It is not something that I have heard of before although I can understand such things as a one in a hundred or something chance. The rebuild issues in the earlier 3.0l motors I believe was an oil starvation issue. I have heard of head issues though around the combustion chamber. I have remained very courteous with Nissan dealer and now Nissan Head Office but after 4 weeks my patience (and shoe leather) is getting thin. Hoping it will reach a conclusion this week. I have been quoted $5000 to replace the head. Apparently they dont repair them on these motors.

Thanks for your interest and good luck with yours. I'm sure they don't all go bang !

FollowupID: 427060

Follow Up By: Motherhen - Monday, May 15, 2006 at 22:52

Monday, May 15, 2006 at 22:52
To Ian of Thermoguard - Hi Ian - i sent you an email direct in response to your post in this thread. I hope it reached you. Regards, Motherhen

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Reply By: Member - Athol (NSW, 2527) - Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 23:01

Saturday, May 06, 2006 at 23:01
Greg, Try this site they say they are developing a combination gauge but that has been coming for a while. May be worth emailing them to check on progress.

AnswerID: 171223

Reply By: Chaz - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:40

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 11:40

I did THIS setup some time ago, and if you can do some of the work yourself you'll save a heap because the parts arn't cheap. One of Ians may be a better option if you don't have anywhere to fit them though.


AnswerID: 171269

Follow Up By: Member - Athol (NSW, 2527) - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 18:43

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 18:43
Chaz, i really like your setup. Is that pod comercially available or a custom.

FollowupID: 426795

Follow Up By: Chaz - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 18:49

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 18:49

Those Gauge Pods are available through 4x4Megastores. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get one through TJM who are the agents for 4X4Megastores in some states. Mine came from their Sydney warehouse, and was $125 delivered. They are black plastic and need to be drilled and painted, but the fit isn't too bad.
There isn't much room on the top gauge socket, so thats why I put the voltmeter there and the boost on the bottom, because that is the deapest one. The only downside is that the gauges face the passenger, but arn't too hard to see while driving.

FollowupID: 426796

Follow Up By: Member - Athol (NSW, 2527) - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 23:09

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 23:09
Thanks Chaz,

I live in the Illawara and might see if I can chase them down. Just to be a pest don't spose you'd know if they are available in a twin, as i'm more interested in just the boost and volts although the pyro might be handy I guess.

Thanks Athol
FollowupID: 426849

Follow Up By: Chaz - Monday, May 08, 2006 at 00:53

Monday, May 08, 2006 at 00:53

No, sorry. To my knowledge they are only available in a 3 gauge set. I was also looking for a twin, but was told that these were the only ones they had and that they were also only available for the GU.

FollowupID: 426859

Follow Up By: Member - Hugh (WA) - Tuesday, May 09, 2006 at 12:18

Tuesday, May 09, 2006 at 12:18
Hi Chaz,

Nice website. I'm impressed with your torque converter lock set-up. Was this a kit or did you make from scratch? Interested to know the basis for instruction but your site gives enough info to work out how to do it. Thanks.

FollowupID: 427160

Follow Up By: Chaz - Wednesday, May 10, 2006 at 01:54

Wednesday, May 10, 2006 at 01:54
Hi Hugh,
Thanks for your comments.
I did this circuit myself, specifically for the GU, but it will work for many other vehicle transmissions with the same basic principals. I have had other cars, including my last 4x4 that I converted to 4 speed auto and without a TCU, the converter must be controlled manually.
After having a manual converter lock, it’s hard not to have one so I came up with this circuit. The main difference with this one though, is the Brake relay part of the circuit, because the GU will lock in 1st. Many other transmissions, including the GQ’s, don’t need this because they can’t lock in 1st and therefore won’t stall when you stop the car with the converter locked.
The benefits are obvious when you drive the car and use the converter lock at lower speeds than it was originally intended. It becomes just like a manual car, but without the clutch pedal. It improves towing efficiency and the trans runs much cooler.
There are some kits available if you don’t want to do it this way, but my way is cheap and totally manual. You control when the converter is locked or unlocked. The only thing to remember is, "never to lock it when the vehicle is stationary, even in neutral or park".
Check out these links.
Wholesale Automatics
FollowupID: 427352

Follow Up By: RedGibber - Friday, May 12, 2006 at 19:01

Friday, May 12, 2006 at 19:01

I checked with the Megastore in Perth for one of those pillar pods (which BTW looks great in your GU!!) but they didn't have the first idea...Grrrr!!! :-(

I'll have to look further afield methinks, coz I really WANT one of those thingies!!

FollowupID: 427957

Follow Up By: Chaz - Friday, May 12, 2006 at 19:50

Friday, May 12, 2006 at 19:50
Hi RedGibber,
If you have no joy with 4WDMegastores, give TJM in Adelaide a ring on (08)8344 6444 and try to speak to Michael Peters. They new nothing of them when I asked, but when he checked with the warehouse in Sydney, they had them in stock and sent one over.
I'm wondering now how many they may have sold, because I've probably put about a dozen people onto them.
If that doesn't work, then maybe try to get the number of the 4WDMegastores warehouse in Sydney and give them a call.
I can't beleave these stores arn't familiar with the products they sell!

FollowupID: 427965

Follow Up By: Member - Hugh (WA) - Friday, May 12, 2006 at 23:01

Friday, May 12, 2006 at 23:01
Hi Chaz,
Thanks for your follow-up. This is a mod that I'll be looking to adopt. I've just fitted a Safari DTronic unit and found that this has made a significant improvement to vehicle performance, especially when towing the camper trailer. The amount of converter engagement reduced but still there. Having had manuals previously I have found the downhill performance a little tricky to get used to so will be good to be able to have it locked manually.

Nice shots of the HK. A mate of mine in VIC has an original HG 350 Monaro, which he's had for last 20 years. He got it about same time I bought an original LJ XU1 (one of the Brisbane buit Bathurst specials). Unfortunately the latter sold but great memories.

FollowupID: 428009

Reply By: Motherhen - Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 23:34

Sunday, May 07, 2006 at 23:34
We had our EGT gauge fitted by a Nissan dealership. Even that dealership couldn't tell us what temperatures it should go to, and asked for feedback from us. Ian of Thermoguard had the best information on his website on temperatures; thanks Ian.

Later we purchased the boost gauge from an auto shop and our son fitted it for us. Thanks Chaz for the photos on your website.

It appears that the series 3 is still suspect over 100,000 kms. When we got the quote from Brunswick Diesels, they only offered trade in on the 3 litre motor if under 100,000 kms. They said at the time they had replaced plenty of blown motors in the newer series - probably more sales talk than fact. We are glad we can monitor the motor so as not to stress it towing, but still fear it may have a limited life with heavy towing, so the v8 conversion is not out of the question.

Red desert dreaming

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AnswerID: 171447

Reply By: Snowy 3.0iTD - Monday, May 08, 2006 at 09:19

Monday, May 08, 2006 at 09:19

A boost gauge is relatively simple to fit, with the turbocharger to intercooler inlet pipe that runs just underneath the plastic intercooler cover at the back. Don't waste your money on a cheap gauge, spend the extra and get a quality AutoMeter BOOST ONLY (diesels don't run at vacuum) gauge for around $130. Make sure you have a high level of confidence that the installer know's what they are doing, if you hear phrases like 'we could try this' or "I'll give it a go" walk away and try someone else. Mine normally runs between 5-15 psi, up to 20psi when you sink the boot in.

As for an EGT gauge I looked in to this but very expensive to install where it would give meaninful results. I was told by a couple of mechanics, that to install the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold just before it enters the turbo that to do as a individual job would cost me around $400-$500 or about an extra $150-$200 if done at a major service. Installing downstream of the catalytic converter on the bend under the vehicle is fairly easy, however the readings may be unreliable due to their variability.

As a indication of how hard the engine is working EGT and Boost are basically just different ways of measuring the same thing.

Kind Regards

AnswerID: 171481

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