Nissan body mounts

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 11:35
ThreadID: 3562 Views:1130 Replies:1 FollowUps:0
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There have been several mentions on this forum lately about replacing the body mounts on Nissans to cure varuious thumps and rattles. I don't know the construction of these mounts as I have never had one out, but is it possible, even as a temporary measure, to firm them up a bit by simply adding a washer or two under the nut where they are bolted to the body? Would this have the effect of putting back some of the "squeeze" on the worn rubbers? Just a thought...

Cheers
Gerry
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Reply By: Truckster - Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 16:40

Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 16:40
Ive had mine out when I did the body lift...

As for putting washers in there, for all the hassles you have to go to to get them out, (LWB specially) eg removing seats, carpet etc, it wouldnt be worth the effort I dont think.

But I know what your saying $266 for a few rubbers seems steep, but there are 12 of them to be done, so when you look at it that way, its not too bad. $22 each. Buy 4 a week for a couple of weeks stick them in the shed!

Have a read of below.
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HOW TO DO A BODY LIFT ON A GQ
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35 to 40mm is a sensible lift.
I just prefer Ally but steel is ok. I havnt used nylon. If its hard it should be ok. Run a 12 to 13 mm hole thru the middle.
The mounts are 70mm. So min is this size . 80 is better. Under door mounts will need a slight chamfer on inner top edge if using larger than 72 as floor mount curves slightly. Check when fitting.

Bolts should be proportionately shorter than listed below. Rear two need to be longer by about 25/30,mm to allow for captive nut size.

Remove carpets, seatbelt bottom bolts.Bottom clip on plastic bit on fan cowling.
Undo all bottom nuts and two rear bolts. (use heat inside floor to break the loctite ion these two) You can drill these captive nuts out to allow the use of longer thru bolts from the top the same as all the others.
I sometimes have had to cut floor here with tin snips to get to nuts, then just screw an ally plate over hole.

Jack up truck body with bits of wood on trolley jacks front and rear until body comes clear of mounts. Check every where for binding., fuel hoses etc.
Keep lifting until new spacers can be slid in, using a bit of grease to reduce corrosion later, take care of fingers.


When istalling a body lift check the following:

1. Steering slip joint to shaft, slide down a bit to relieve stress

2. Brake coiled pipe between body and chassis (under master cyl) open them up

3. Cable loom (under passenger seat) to chassis

4. Clutch flexible pipe from gearbox to body, bend down body bracket

5. Remove small shroud extension from bottom of radiator.

6. Replace fuel feed and return hoses, body to fuel pump, with longer ones - esp on diesel.

7. Check air con hoses from pump up to body isnt snagging.

8. Low range lever will need mod to it and surrounding area, more so on GQ1s.

9. Gearlever aperture likewise for 2nd, 4th and rev.

10. etc, etc,

To make a body lift you need for a Lwb 10 x approx 70mm diam by 50mm long aluminium or steel spacers with a 13mm hole in the middle. Plus 10
of 150 x 12mm bolts, washers and nyloc nuts.

Follow the above and common sense. Its NOT a hard job.
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AnswerID: 14082

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