Pre warm up with a diesel first thing in the morning!

Submitted: Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 22:11
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Hi.

Might be old fasioned , but i still think to run your motor for a couple of minutes, before you take off first thing in the morning is a sensible thing to do!!, Unlike my lovely neighbours (HA HA) who turn the key and drop the clutch at the same time, can get away with it if you can afford to replace your vechicle every few years!. But in the long term especially with a diesel I think pre warm up is important?

My thoughts only

Regards Axle
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Reply By: Muzzgit (WA) - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 22:37

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 22:37
The most important thing is to get the oil pressure up. Having a turbo also makes a bit of difference, and I also believe in the theory of cold things shrink, and I don't mean when you've been swimming in the southern ocean. ha ha

About 20 years ago I shared a rental house in City Beach [$$$] and the landlord lived across the road. Every morning he would get in his top of the line sedan and cruise off to work in the city, while the wifey would take the kids to school in the old Sigma wagon.

She would crank it over and put her foot flat to the floor, and hold it there for about 10 seconds after it started, every morning.....

Every morning, every morning, did I mention every morning I was woken by the sound of an engine screaming it's guts out !!!

It didn't take long for the thing to start blowing smoke, which wasn't unusual for a Sigma anyway, but I'm sure she had no idea what she was doing. te he

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Follow Up By: Member - Axle - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 22:53

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 22:53
Agree! Muzzgit, low revs make sure the oil light goes off REAL quick !

HA HA That dude you mentioned sounded like my previous neighbour with her dato station wagon REV the crap out of it freezing cold and then off!!.(HA HA).
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Follow Up By: Exploder - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:04

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:04
“It didn't take long for the thing to start blowing smoke”

Na Just ask any skyline driver, it’s called “Power Smoke” LMAO, year right Buddy I call it your heap of chit engine is bleep ed smoke.

As for warm up, Well I start my car at 4:55am Monday to Friday to go to work And probably wake half the house up as the thing fires up and the exhaust note hits and radiates of the garage LOL. , The oil pressure gage takes all of oh… around half a second to read normal pressure, seatbelt on in drive handbrake off and out of the driveway and I am off.
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Reply By: fisho64 - Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 23:24

Saturday, Jul 08, 2006 at 23:24
takes time for oil to reach the top end. Warming up isnt such an issue within reason but next time you do your tappets, start up with cover off and see how long from stone cold til oil starts to flow up there.
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Follow Up By: Aandy(WA) - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 00:08

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 00:08
Oil reaches the top end within one second fisho64. Do you really think that engine manufacturers/designers would make an engine that runs without lubrication for any more than a second? I assume you have a very old car because that was a problem many years ago and those who run their engine before driving are hanging on to old ideas. Consider also - does it really make any difference to the tappets and their lubrication if the car is moving or stationary??
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Follow Up By: fisho64 - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 01:18

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 01:18
"Consider also - does it really make any difference to the tappets and their lubrication if the car is moving or stationary?? "
why worry about any other part of the engine then? Ditto the turbo?

If you have an aftermarket gauge you will see that it takes at least a second to raise oil pressure. Unless you have a magical way to make oil flow uphill without oil pressure then it aint gonna get there without it.

Having said that sure its not that big a problem. Its abusing it that will cause far more trouble
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Reply By: Bilbo - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:01

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:01
If it's a pushrod motor, I'd do it. If it's an overhead cam motor, I wouldn't.

The oil to the camshaft is highly pressuried and it FLYS EVERYWHERE when you start 'em without the rocker box on.

What a mess!

Bilbo
AnswerID: 182498

Follow Up By: Member - Axle - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:32

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:32
Bilbo.
Can see experience here, totally agree ,over head cams" different situation, But! have to be carefull what oil is used !!. Another post maybe, (HA HA)

Cheers.
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Follow Up By: GaryInOz (Vic) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 18:06

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 18:06
Bilbo, you done that too!!!!! :-)))) Inquisitive buggers, aren't we??????????
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Reply By: The Rambler( W.A.) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:04

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:04
Not being a mechanicI have been told the correct way is to start and drive at slow speed through the gears until normal temperatureis reached an then you are on your way.Sitting at idle apperently makes no differencee while warming the engine but Ican only repeat what I have been told by the one's in the know.
AnswerID: 182499

Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:45

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:45
>>> Sitting at idle apperently makes no differencee while warming the engine

I wouldnt bother going back to that mechanic I dont think...
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Follow Up By: Leroy - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:53

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:53
I find the 3.0 you luv truckie takes for ever for the guage to move if idling from cold. Using the heat button a bit faster and driving gently down the road, no time at all.

Leroy
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Reply By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:15

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:15
I think it is especially important to warm up your engine in a caravan park. First thing in the morning around sparrow's let it run for about 10 minutes while you pack up around the van. And then when all is ready, switch it off and take a walk over to the loo.

Kings
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Follow Up By: Member - Axle - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:44

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 00:44
ALL caravan Pullers have done that me included!!

Axle.
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Follow Up By: Mr Fawlty - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 10:11

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 10:11
a bloke by the name of Bob Magor wrote a poem about guys who do that...Involves a lot of non soto voce discussions, making sure you let your engine idle at 4:00am... lots of noise packing up etc etc.... Yeah I know the type....
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:01

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:01
Bob's poem is called "Caravanning Bliss"

PeterD
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Follow Up By: Mr Fawlty - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:19

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:19
Indeed it is, & it fits perfectly into this scenario. I'd publish the words but that would infringe copywrite & cause magor hassles.....
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 17:40

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 17:40
Mr Fawlty Instead of breaching copyright we can just tell the others that they can purchase his books from Site Link . They are a good read.

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Reply By: Kiwi Kia - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 07:56

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 07:56
A major light aircraft engine manufacturerer used to say something like ... oil pressure must come up within 30 seconds and when you can open the throttle smoothly and the engine doesn't stutter then it's warm enough to go. Yeah I know, these engines are light weight and air cooled but after being parked outside in a heavy frost believe me they are cold.
AnswerID: 182516

Follow Up By: Member - Axle - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 11:43

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 11:43
That makes sense when you think about it, early model petrol engined cars with manual control choke etc, refused to get going until they warmed up a tad.!
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Follow Up By: macca172 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:13

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:13
Yes thats correct, after start checks in "most" light aircraft:

Engine 1000rpm
Oil pressure in 30 seconds, or immediate shutdown.

Macca
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Reply By: Member - uncle - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 08:23

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 08:23
I remember quite a few years ago walking thru a car yard early one morning, it must have been "start up and yard change day",anyway this young salesman has done just the wrong thing, started up a falcon, foot straight to the floor and vroom vroom,next thing crack, rattle rattle, found out later he'd bent a valve!
AnswerID: 182517

Reply By: Mr Fawlty - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 10:14

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 10:14
Discussion re warming up aside (you have no choice in Canberra when it's -5 outside) I was amazed to discover that my Jacks' oil pressure was over 100psi....620kpa....under normal circumstances.
AnswerID: 182525

Reply By: Member No 1- Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:41

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 12:41
if i am not wrong ..not one answer from a diesel mech?...lots of theories but by wouild be mechanics
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 16:05

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 16:05
It's not much use asking a diesel mechanic. I have heard them recommend both idle warm up and drive away gently. I have also been told by some that my Discovery Td5 is not a direct injection motor because it has glow plugs – they argue that no direct injection motor has glow plugs.

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Follow Up By: Bilbo - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:01

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:01
Member No 1,

"if i am not wrong ..not one answer from a diesel mech?...lots of theories but by wouild be mechanics"

What answer would you like to what question?

I'm a diesel mechanic from years ago, but getting old these days.

Bilbo
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Follow Up By: Leroy - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:46

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:46
I'm an expert of anything on the internet.....I can be a diesel mechanic for you if you want me too! I'm also a fridgie when I've had a few ;-))

Leroy
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 08:12

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 08:12
thanks bilbo for clarifying your position...an oldie but a goodie eh?
what differnce does a pushroad v overhead camshaft mean?

i was always told...no taught , with petrol motors to start them and drive gently till up to temp....does this still apply to overhead camshafts petrol motors?...all cars owned by me have been pushrod types.......all cars with overhead cams were company owned...and we know they are always the fastest and can run with only a litre or so of oil for a year.......

so on latest TD 100 i drive gently until up to temp?
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Follow Up By: Bilbo - Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 00:40

Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 00:40
Member No1,

The basic underlying principle of starting up any engine, turbine, reciprocating pump, compressor etc, is this,

When an engine or any piece of machinery is cold and stationary, there is no (or very little) oil on any of the bearing surfaces. These surfaces include big end bearings, main bearings, pistons, cylinder walls, valve stems, camshafts - all are designed to have a film of pressurised oil (or splash oil in the case of a piston and cylinder) between them and whatever is running against 'em or in 'em.

When you start an engine from cold, the oil pressure is zero, the oil circulation is zero. So all the metal surfaces are literally scratching each other at high speed and high friction rates - ouch!

Start the motor and let the oil pressure build up. It only takes a few seconds. But that few seconds is where most engine wear occurs. These early seconds are where you can add 1000s of kms to yer engine life.

With modern multi-grade oils the oil will have sufficient lubrication properties to lubricate the moving parts even when it's cold - as long the oil pressure is up to normal. BUT - that doesn't mean that you can then thrash the arriss of it. The engine parts need to expand gradually to thier design operating temperature and this warm up is best done, not so much slolwy, but evenly is a better word.

So how should you start your TD100? Same as I used to start mine and any other engine. Hit the starter, put yer seat belt on, check the oil pressure is up (guage or light gone out), listen to motor and within 20 seconds you'll hear a few engine rattles disappear. That means oil is now circulating around your motor and all the gaps are sealed and all the bearings surfaces have oil on 'em.

Total time about 25 seconds.

Put it into gear and drive along a slightly subdued manner until the water temperature guage comes up to just under normal.

Total time about 15 minutes.

NOW you can thrash the arriss off it.

Bilbo
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Follow Up By: Bilbo - Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 00:58

Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 00:58
Member No1,

A psuhrod motor is old technology. It has it's camshaft located about halfway down the cylinder block and uses pushrods to open and close the valves that re located in the cylinder head. Overhead cam engines also have a camshaft that opens and closes the valves but the camshaft sits on top of the cylinder head and acts (in most cases) directly onto the valves. Some use rocker arms and some don't.

Overhead cam engines allow the design engineer to get better gas flow through better more sophisticated valve port design that you can't do with a pushrod engine and valve system. This gives better engine efficiency. BUT - an overhead cam system must have a full pressure lubrication system much like a crankshaft and big end bearings do. On the other hand, a push rod motor will get away with a low pressure, almost a drip feed system to the valves and associated bits.

Hnece when ya start a pushrod engine without the rocker box fitted, it's not much of an issue as there is not much oil up near the valves. But when ya start an overhead cam engine, that oil that feeds the camshaft is FULL engine oil pressure and it spreads further and faster than baby shcitt!!

There is no difference in how you start 'em or drive 'em.

Bilbo
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Follow Up By: Member No 1- Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 07:56

Tuesday, Jul 11, 2006 at 07:56
"So how should you start your TD100? Same as I used to start mine and any other engine. Hit the starter, put yer seat belt on, check the oil pressure is up (guage or light gone out), listen to motor and within 20 seconds you'll hear a few engine rattles disappear." good to see i was doing the right thing.

but the girls can do it a bit quicker than us guys...... Hit the starter, put yer seat belt on, and drive.........if it doesnt go, blame hubby for not getting it fixed......
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Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 13:01

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 13:01
I have a Pajero DiD and a VERY steep hill at the end of the street. If I don't warm it up for a few minutes in summer and 5 minutes in winter, it just doesn't want to go up the hill. I assume any Turbo Boost is disabled until it comes up to operating temperature.

The hill is so steep that I change to 2nd in the 5speed Auto to go down it without excessive braking.

If I lived on flat ground, I would just drive off slowly.

Mike
AnswerID: 182542

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 20:14

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 20:14
The only instructions on Starting in the Owners Manual states "The engine is well warmed up if the Coolant Temp Gauge needle starts to move.".

Because the Diesel wastes little heat, this can take a long time of Idling in winter ! I don't wait that long !

Mike
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Reply By: disco1942 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 13:49

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 13:49
I was looking at a site that was linked on another forum. I could not find it but found a similar expose on another site called “American Rider.” Although diesel engines do not have 'chokes' they do have piston rings that don' seal very well until they reach working temperature. The following comes from tinyurl.com/jmneb

Why not just let the engine idle until it is warm? This is important. A cold engine generally needs the choke to run at all. Chokes are relatively crude devices and dump too much fuel into the engine, more than it needs. This extra fuel washes oil off cylinder walls, finds its way past loose pistons (and ring gaps) and down into the oil. Other byproducts of combustion find their way into the crankcase and engine oil as well. These include: water, acids and carbon particles.

The best way to minimize all this contamination is to warm the engine as quickly as is reasonably possible. "Reasonably possible" includes placing a load on the engine by actually riding the bike. One or two horsepower are needed to idle an engine, but it takes 10 or so to go down the road. More horsepower develops more heat, hence, the heat from the 10 warms the motor faster, reducing corrosive oil and engine contamination.

If you keep revs below half-way to redline and the throttle below one-half, you'll have no trouble with blow-by or overstressing cold and still loose parts. Long ago, before emissions standards and too many lawyers with time on their hands, General Motors learned that engines lasted longer if they were warmed by driving the car. I have ridden with that recommendation in mind for 40-plus years and preached it to thousands. It makes sense and seems to work.

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AnswerID: 182547

Follow Up By: Leroy - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:57

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:57
I've always driven my vehicle gently down the road when cold. Never had a problem with any of them.
Also what you say reinforces why short trips are bad for your oil!

Leroy
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Reply By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 14:01

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 14:01
Just read your instruction manuel it will say something like the best way to warm up your vehicle is to drive it steadaly after the oil light gos off until it has reached operating temperature
AnswerID: 182548

Reply By: DaveNQ1 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 14:17

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 14:17
gday,
As an ex Diesel Fitter i have asked this question numerous times and as here received different reponses. I think the best bit of advice i have been given was by the oil company reps who said that an oil works best when it reaches its ideal viscosity level. This is obviously operating temperature. An engine takes a lot longer to warm up at idle than if you are driving. The last new car i purchased i was told to not idle the engine on cold start ups but drive it as if it were a new vehicle in its first 1000 ks. No high revs and don't let it labour.

Cheers
AnswerID: 182552

Reply By: Max - Sydney - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 16:46

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 16:46
Guys

In the 1950s, my mech design lecturer at Adelaide Uni said that with modern design and tolerancing of engine components the old warm up period was obsolete! Fifty years later, machining and assembly methods just make that more true. They design for & achieve acceptable clearances when cold as well as hot.

The trap is - all your oils, all your greases and all your bearings need to be warm for optimum operation. Warming up the engine just fills the next caravan with gases and gives neighbours cause for concern. And it only warms the engine - not the gearbox, transfer case, diffs and wheel bearings and tyres.

In all conditions - start, wait a few seconds and drive off gently till the car "feels" warmed up, and you will prolong the life of the whole vehicle. If its a diesel, leave the ignition on for a few seconds after the glowplug light has gone out - that helps to get it away first hit.

Contentious, but works for me, and its based on a bit of science.

Max (waiting for the flak!)
AnswerID: 182569

Follow Up By: Exploder - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:02

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:02
Good advice, with some educated facts to back it and I agree.

As the post above yours mentioned just drive the thing as soon as the oil pressure reaches normal pressure.

Funny thing is I am ½ way throe my trade as a Mechanical/ Diesel/ Marine Fitter; I just pulled out the Textbook for Diesel Engines some 600 pagers worth and had a flip throe the Index and not a thing about Engine warm up in there.

I would say you just stick to what is in the Manufactures Hand book as below and if 1-2 minutes at 1200rpm in an expensive peace of equipment like a John deer tractor is adequate then leaving the Patrol or whatever idling for 5-10 minutes before you drive it is just pointless I reckon.

Cheers.

.
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Reply By: strzelecki - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 17:42

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 17:42
On my newish john deere tractor it has a sign saying to run at 1200 rpm with no load for btwn 1 -2 minutes depending on outside temperature.I always warm up for 1 minute.But I never let the toyota warm up but its 1klm to the end of drive slightly down hill ,she ain't complained yet.
AnswerID: 182573

Reply By: Mikee5 (QLD) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:08

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 19:08
I remember reading an article in the RACQ magazine which said the best way to warm an engine is to drive it gently. Sitting idling a cold engine is a very slow way to warm it up and does nothing for the transmission etc. I always wait for mine (1HZ) to achieve oil pressure and run smoothly then drive off. The stories about warming up come from the days of manual chokes, carburettors etc when a car would probably stall unless warmed up.
AnswerID: 182594

Reply By: Member - Barry C (NT) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:41

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:41
I have a question? Why do diesel gensets start and go from zero revs to full load in under 30 seconds (ie they are on standby for mains power failures) and run for thousands of hours trouble free?

I know some will say,like me,they've see a piston through the block on some of the cold starts. I worked on gensets for years and I only saw 1 punch a piston through the side of a block on a cold morning when the load was applied.

Multi grade oils are designed for this type of operation. I lean toward the drive off rather than idle for several resons:
- better ring seal with pressures up
- oils can handle it these days
- why waste fuel idling when this is the highest time of oil contamination to sump
- doesn't annoy the hell out of others
- diesel gensets are PROOF this works as they accumulate many 1000's of hours before overhaul (been there seen it) and they start and go to governed revs reallllllllllll quick

Another 2 bobs worth,, kaching,,,kaching,,,

Barry

AnswerID: 182615

Follow Up By: 12HT75 - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 23:17

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 23:17
Yeah, like Detroit Diesel 2-strokes on drill rig compressors.
I have heard that Detroits are specially designed to do this (start from cold and go straight to governed revs).

Peter
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Follow Up By: atoyot - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 22:44

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 22:44
I don't know a lot about standby power gensets, but I know some do have water jacket heaters or crankcase heaters. They're supposed to keep the genset at a certain temp so that when they are required to start, they are ready to run at the revs required to produce the desired voltage (about 250 volts to get the phases synchronised with UPS power in the instance I'm thinking about). I guess that's the point about standby power; it has to be the correct voltage from the word go, so they have to run at certain revs from the word go. Some diesels may be designed to run from cold to full revs and others need heaters; no doubt those that rev the crap out of their cold engines could do with engine heaters.

I suppose that in other colder parts of the world, engine heaters are used for different reasons, but from what I've seen it is for easier starting and faster oil flow and pressure rise. Interesting subject,

Andrew
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Reply By: Member - Kingsley N (SA) - Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:41

Sunday, Jul 09, 2006 at 21:41
Just to throw in a red herring here- what about the common diesel driver habit of leaving the engine running when stationary? All the big boys do it with their trucks and buses, so why shouldn't we do it when we duck in to the deli or go over to the caravan park reception at check in?

LOL

Kings
AnswerID: 182616

Follow Up By: Richard Kovac - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 00:41

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 00:41
Kingsley N

Because more people could drive off in the Nissan than the Kenworth

(maybe)

Richard
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Follow Up By: Muddy doe (SA) - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:20

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:20
and for that reason it is illegal to leave a vehicle running when unattended. oh and I am sure the insurance company would also be impressed!

Having said that I do it from time to time myself.....

Muddy
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Follow Up By: atoyot - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 22:59

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 22:59
The Isuzu 700s and 750's have a recommendation that extended idle periods should have the revs bumped up to 1200 on the hand throttle for everything to work properly, including coolant pump, alternator, etc. That's in situations where they are required to idle for extended periods, not just for P breaks etc. That's probably irrelevant in the context of this post anyway.

Andrew
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Reply By: dieselman - Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:14

Monday, Jul 10, 2006 at 21:14
Hi all
I work as a diesel mechanic for Cummins. The only pre warm recomendation is wait 2-3 mins for proper lubrication of the turbo. The only exception is gensets which have a block heater fitted that keeps the coolant at a contant 60 - 70 degrees celcius. By doing this the heat will transfer to the oil when the engine is started.
My 2 cents worth

Cheers
Ben
AnswerID: 182808

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