Camper trailer battery charging

Submitted: Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 19:31
ThreadID: 3572 Views:4859 Replies:6 FollowUps:3
This Thread has been Archived
I want to charge the camper trailer battery from the my jackaroo.As i already have 2 batteries in the vehicle could the alternator handle charging 3 batteries or perhaps I could isolate the aux battery and charge the starter and camper batteries together.Any assistance would be appreciated
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: desert - Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 22:08

Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 22:08
A couple of change over relays, 2x solenoids and a hot wire will give you the option of switching charge from one, two or either batteries. Costs about $250 to do your self, or pay the auto elect another $200 for him to do it. Reliable, fixable and flexible system that beats the hell out of 500 plus electronic systems that you can't fix out in the boonies!
AnswerID: 14114

Follow Up By: Diamond - Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 22:17

Thursday, Feb 27, 2003 at 22:17
$250 seems a little expensive solonoids are about $40 each high amp toggle switch about $15 and 6mm wire about $2.50 per metre. oh and slab of beer to fit your self about $30
FollowupID: 8409

Reply By: ThePublican - Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 10:09

Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 10:09
Have dual batts in vehicle controlled thru rotronics system ,self fitted ,cost $265 , ran 8mm cable + and - from 2nd batt to 3rd batt mounted in camper trailer thru LARGE 7 pin plug and socket ,system works ,no " hot " cables plugs ect, 3 batts always fully charged.
AnswerID: 14141

Reply By: Mike - Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 10:50

Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 10:50
Must agree with the publican. My auto electrician fitted an 8mm cable from the aux battery to the trailer plug and this does the job just fine. The Kamper is fully charged all the time with no "hot" wires.

Happy trails, Mike.
AnswerID: 14144

Reply By: Dion - Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 12:43

Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 12:43
if you want'd to use larger conductors, use an anderson plug instead of going through the trailer plug and vehicle socket.


AnswerID: 14152

Reply By: Steve - Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 17:07

Friday, Feb 28, 2003 at 17:07
Thanks for the ideas.What I have done is run 6 mm cables from my 2nd battery to an Anderson plug but I am not sure if I should be using a fuse or circuit breaker in the line to protect the cabling between the 2nd battery and the Anderson plug.I have measured the volt drop under load and it is 0.2 volts.
AnswerID: 14178

Follow Up By: Member - Chris - Saturday, Mar 01, 2003 at 21:42

Saturday, Mar 01, 2003 at 21:42
I'd suggest a solenoid isolater controlled by a switch to protect your car battery. I fuse is not necessary is the cable you have installed is protected in conduit or otherwise protected from cuts or shorts. I would've used 8mm cable tho, but if it works for you - s'ok.
FollowupID: 8551

Follow Up By: Member - Nigel - Sunday, Mar 02, 2003 at 13:38

Sunday, Mar 02, 2003 at 13:38
Fusible links are better than fuses for that current. They provide a weak point without affecting the voltage drop too much. 6mm cable is too light for charging a battery. You'll get huge voltage drop once your trailer battery is flat and tries to draw a decent charge current.
FollowupID: 8573

Reply By: Jan - Sunday, Mar 02, 2003 at 15:51

Sunday, Mar 02, 2003 at 15:51
I have a Jackaroo with a second (deep cycle) battery, and a camper trailer with its own deep cycle battery. The vehicles connect through a 7 pin plug for trailer lights and turn indicators etc., but the two aux batteries connect in parallel via an Anderson plug, or each can run stand-alone. The vehicle alternator has no trouble in charging all three batteries. Via a solenoid, the vehicle battery has priority, then when it is fully charged, charging flows to the other two (or just the second vehicle battery if the trailer is not connected.) When I arrive somewhere at the end of a trip, all batteries are fully charged.
AnswerID: 14302

Sponsored Links