setting up batt power to CT
Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 09, 2006 at 21:56
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JAS095
Hi I would like to second the brain power of this
forum for a moment
I have now with the info on here built a 12v
camping lights from compact 12v fluros and work light holder from dad's toy
shop (bunnings) and the work great.
Now I need to look at installing a battery in the CT to run them and the fridge so now I have some questions.
I currently have dual batts under the bonnet and use a redarc solenoid and then run my acc through a multi blade fuse block
1) how do I wire the battery to charge from the car, I will be using anderson plugs and 6-8mm2 cable but where do I attach the car end of the cable
2) can any one suggest a battery monitor that can be used to watch the charge of the battery in the CT
thanks
Jason
JAS095
Reply By: junior - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 00:24
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 00:24
Hi Jason,
1) i'd run parallel direct from second battery, but through a high-amp manual circuit breaker as close as possible to cars' second batt (could also run another redarc to trailer batt, but kinda pointless 'cause you'll be disconnecting the feed from the car when
camping?)
2) check out this (also available at Carac etc)
AnswerID:
188277
Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 09:13
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 09:13
Yep. just parrallel of the second battery. I have auto reset circuit breakers at each end as close as possible to each battery, but some people prefer the manual resets.
I'd go bigger cable to reduce voltage drop and get a better charge into the CT battery. I used 25mm sq double insulated welding cable. Voltage drop is zero, but I had to use 175Amp anderson plugs due to size of cable. You might not go to the extent I did (I have 2 120 Amp AGMs at the back, in addition to the dual system under the bonnet), but I'd use the biggest cable I could fit into a 50 Amp plug. 10mm sq fits easy and 15mm sq (if avail) would also fit.
If possible run your cable through the chasis rail for protection. Even with the size cable I used, I got it through the chassis on the Lux without too much difficulty. I put some of the split ribbed conjuit over it where it enters the chassis for protection against rubbing.
That's my 2 cents worth.
AnswerID:
188300
Follow Up By: Stiphodon - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 09:29
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 09:29
I'm also in the middle of fitting a second battery in parrallel. Just wondering where you bought your welding cable from? It sounds like a better option than normal battery cable. Can you get it from bunnings or do you need a specialist welding
shop?
FollowupID:
445550
Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 10:21
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 10:21
I got
mine from an electrical wholesaler; supplier to electricians.
I doubt that Bunnings would have it and they would be very expensive anyway.
By way of example, I recently did major renovations and extensions on my house. We ran out of 2 core flex electrical cable on a Sunday and I just wanted to get the job done. Sent my wife to Bunnings to get a roll. They had it, but she paid about $120 for something I could get from the wholesaler for $35.
FollowupID:
445565
Follow Up By: Garbutt - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 11:31
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 11:31
I bought new cables for my arc welder from the local Metalland. off a big roll you can get any length you want, can't remember the price but not dear.
GB
FollowupID:
445580
Reply By: Derek from Affordable Batteries & Radiators - Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 15:30
Thursday, Aug 10, 2006 at 15:30
Hi Jas,
Use 8mm cable and connect to the Aux side of the redarc. Try use a good earth but a better option is to run an earth from the aux under the bonnet to the trailer.
50 amp Anderson plugs are fine.
Use a 100amp mega fuse both ends.
Monitors are simple LED type or more expensive LCD Digital type $30 to $150.
All this gear is available on line or give ebay a go.
Regards Derek.
AnswerID:
188354