Problem Free Patrol 2006

Submitted: Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 23:37
ThreadID: 36747 Views:2442 Replies:6 FollowUps:14
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Problem Free Patrol 2006

Well my new ST 3.0 L Patrol has arrived, many thanks to those who replied to my last post. (I have the upgrade rear lights on order.)

A couple of queries that arose from my extended fussing over the new vehicle.

• Has the trip meter gone? It may have just moved but I can’t find it in the vehicle or the handbook.

• A nice little chime sounds continuously if the keys are in the ignition without the engine running (door open). This feature definitely has to go! Has anyone worked out how to disconnect this chime? A knowledgeable neighbour of mine suggested that it may be a programmable function through the ECU?

Regards
Spinifex

P.S. I read with interest the post about blocking off the EGR valve. Am I brave enough to do it? Not yet!
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Reply By: Muzzgit (WA) - Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 23:50

Sunday, Aug 13, 2006 at 23:50
In refference to the EGR valve, I would be talking to the turbo/injection specialists first!
AnswerID: 188859

Reply By: scottcamp - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 00:01

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 00:01
Hi spinifex,
Congratulations on the new car. I have a 2005 patrol and not a single problem from new. This car has already been all over Europe carrying heavy loads and runs 100% perfect. As for the trip meter mine has two, Trip A and Trip B, both can be found by pressing the button which comes out of the speedo, once for A and twice for B. As for the chime, never really noticed it, so maybe you will get used to it, or just take your keys out before leaving the car.
AnswerID: 188860

Follow Up By: spinifex - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:25

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:25
Hi Scottcamp

Glad to hear you are having a good run, The A & B trip meters were very handy, I use to reset “A” each time I fueled up and use “B” for incidental distance checks. Looks like both trip meters are gone on the 06 Patrol, no button protruding from speedo. I find it hard to believe that they would do away with the trip meter all together, this puts me back to a note pad full of iffy distances.

Regards
Spinifex
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Follow Up By: scottcamp - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:48

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:48
Hi spinifex,
I kinda guessed that you would not have the button on the speedo, but l thought i might point it out just in case ;-). But seriously, it must still be there somewhere. Why remove it, every car i know has one?

The patrol is turning out to be the best 4x4 i have owned, it really made easy work of the European trip, France Belgium,Netherlands and Germany. On the way back there was not one inch of spare room in the car as booze is a lot cheaper in France than the UK. The car performed perfectly in all conditions loaded to the roof with gear. Next year we are off to Morocco with it, so lets see how it copes with the Atlas mountains and the Sahara.

Scott
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Reply By: Robin - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 08:13

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 08:13
Hi Spinfex

Congratulations , Patrols are still probably the best choice in their field.

I kept telling myself that , after I slid down a rut for a while , part way on the chassis yesterday without damage other than to ego.

I see scottcamp has mentioned the trip meter thing, on the chime does it come on when on acessories or only on ignition? Mines a couple of years earlier but it only makes a couple of useful noises when say parking lights are on and in accessory position. This has proved to be worthwhile.
It would indeed be a pain if it made a noise with door open and on acessoires. I use this a lot to listen to UHF radio when away from car a short distance.

If it is a problem the best solution will probably be to remove the little speaker or deactivate it rather than intercept the ecu signal (it wouldn't be the ecu - but the unified meter or body control module most likely)

I had a few things that annoyed me which were solved by a quick re-wire - e.g. not being able to operate windows when on acessories etc.

Robin Miller

AnswerID: 188872

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:52

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 15:52
The surf has a "ding ding" when the door is open and key in the ignition, even if it is still in the lock position. Many a surf owner have disabled it by cutting wires etc. I'm sure the patrol forums will (if not already) have a mod soon to come!

I'm suprised you run your UHF off accessories, I would have thought most people run direct to battery. My UHF is never turned of, it's on 24/7.

I havn't cut the ding ding wire on mine, I just installed a switch that allows the accessories to run off the aux batteries without the keys in, much more usful IMHO, that way I can listent to music without the fear of some bastard pinching the car! ;-)
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Follow Up By: Robin - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 16:29

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 16:29
Hi Jeff

I run UHF of accessories for what became a very practical reason for us.

Its an important tool here , but often at camp you would be constantly hearing non relevant traffic.
What would happen would be that it would get turned off or worse down.

This gets forgotten about , espically if someone else does it.

By having it on/off with accessories , its state is more easily seen and it doesn't get turned down and when heading off for a drive it is always on without thinking.

Nearly every trip I lead usually has someone needing to be given the message to turn on there radio by other means.

Robin Miller
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:04

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:04
Hi Robin

The darn chime (sounds like a cheap digital watch alarm) goes off the moment the tip of the key touches the ignition. I had a look for the “chime maker” as I am all set to fill it with epoxy, but it appears to be generated from deep in the dash somewhere.
Note: Not the headlight on alarm that has a different noise (continuous beeeeeeeep)

I am interested in your mod to allow window operation with the key in accessories position. I modded my old patrol so that the windows could be operated from the drivers door even with the key out, but I was always concerned about this from a security point of view. My mod was quite simple all done at the drivers arm rest concole. Can you provide some details of your mod to get me started?

Regards
Spinifex
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FollowupID: 446264

Follow Up By: Member - Jeff M (WA) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:23

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:23
Fair enough Robin, I know the problem well when leading groups!
Maybe a switch such as mine but for the UHF which allows both kinds of operation? Better than leaving the key's in I reckon.
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 00:00

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 00:00
Hi Jeff

My patrol agrees with you, it certainly doesn’t want the keys left in the ignition. I guess it’s down to where you live and what you do. I now pull the keys out and leave them on the seat.

Regards
Spinifex
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Follow Up By: Robin - Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 08:33

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 08:33
Hi Spinifex

The following is from a note I posted on Patrol4wd group a couple of years ago and describes how you need to move just 1 wire to operate electric windows from accessories

Robin Miller

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
I don't mind turning on accessories, as I often sit in car listening
to radio etc which requires accessories on anyway.

So this mod involves cutting 1 wire on the back of fuse panel and
moving it 1 inch so that it is operated by the accessory relay
instead of the ignition relay.

GETTING to back of fuse panel

Lots of cables plug into the back of the fuse panel but with a bit of
work it can be edged forward just enough to get access to the wire
concerned.

1/ Remove the cover panel that goes under the steering wheel - think 4
self tapper screws, this is the first panel I threw permanently out of
my car so can't really remember how it comes off except that it was
easy.

2/ Looking at fuse panel - it is held by 2 10mm screws at the top,
take them out.
It is also held at bottom LHS by a plastic tab, with small screwdriver
lift tab an ease base of fuse panel forward an inch.

3/ The fuse panel will still not pull straight forward as it is held
at the top by 2 plastic hooks. If you push it to the right 10mm it
will unhook and come forward out of its mounts.
I can never remember these nasty little tricks that stop things
coming undone so I snipped the plastic mount tabs off my fuse panel.

4/ Now the bonnet release catch and the bracket that holds the white
diagnostics plug need to be unbolted and pushed to one side (3 bolts
total).
The fuse panel and its cables can now be edged forward 100mm or so.

5/ Lean the top of the fuse panel forward. On the top RHS at the back
is a grey plug.
The wire we cut is the red/yellow stripe in this top RHS plug.
I cut mine with about 1cm of wire left in the plug just in case I
wanted to return the car to standard sometime.
(that'ed be a big job - Editor).

A few wires to the left of the red/yellow wire, and in the same plug,
you will see a fatter green/red stripe wire.
This green/red wire runs the Cig Lighter via fuse NO.13 (7.5amp)

Splice the cut red/yellow wire into the green/red one.
Solder them together , and cover with tape.

6/ Apart from putting the car back together this is all you have to
do. But switch on accessories and check windows work before re-
assembling.
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 00:08

Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 00:08
Thanks Robin
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Reply By: Spike me - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 14:38

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 14:38
Just make sure you sell it before th eengine blows up.
AnswerID: 188928

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 14:43

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 14:43
That's a low blow!
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:11

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:11
You’re just playing with my emotions. LOL
SpinFX
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Reply By: Spike me - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:33

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 17:33
No Such thing as a "Problem Free Patrol". Especially the 3 litre
AnswerID: 188956

Follow Up By: spinifex - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:12

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 18:12
6 years with a 2000 model 3.0l job and only had to replace the alternator brushes.

Not a bad run in anyone’s book. I know I know, Nissan Museum wants to buy it. LOL

SpinFX
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FollowupID: 446266

Follow Up By: On Patrol - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:28

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:28
Hi Spike me
What problems have you had with yours???
Mine is 1500000 and problem free so far (exept an idiot mechanic that reversed the vacumm hoses while fitting a snorkel)
On Patrol
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Follow Up By: On Patrol - Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:29

Monday, Aug 14, 2006 at 20:29
Try 150000km
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FollowupID: 446296

Reply By: Rokkitt - Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 08:28

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2006 at 08:28
Hi,

Just had my 50'000km service and so far very happy with my 3.0ST.

Now the door chime....pull out the interior light switch from the drivers side door, you lose the automatic operation of the interior light but a small price to pay to lose the "BEEP"

Tried just leaving the keys on the seat but this does not prevent the car "automatically locking" itself although leaving the keys in the ignition does!

Rod
AnswerID: 189073

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