Patrol Series 4 wheel stud warning.
Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 00:01
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spinifex
Patrol Series 4 wheel stud warning.
If you are changing your 17inch alloy rims over to steel rims pay particular attention to the front wheel studs. What I discovered is the wheel nut is very close to bottoming out before it clamps the wheel, not a problem with the 10mm thick flanges of the alloy rims but the steel rims are only about 4mm thick.
After some very careful measuring with a vernier I determined there was only
0.5 mm to spare before
the nut ran out of thread. What if the rims were only 3.5 mm thick or the countersinks were a bit deeper? The result would be loose
wheels even though the wheel nuts were correctly tensioned. (Failure of studs inevitable but not immediate.)
Note: Doesn’t seem to be an issue with the rear studs as they are parallel (Not necked down) and have thread all the way to the hub face.
If you have already fitted steel rims it would pay to check this out.
Hope it helps
Regards
Spinifex
Reply By: Member - Andrew W (SA) - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 00:26
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 00:26
you'd want to watch that those steel rims weren't seating in a little after the first few thousand k's ... that last turn of
the nut could cause grief ...
AnswerID:
189237
Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:23
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:23
Very good point, not much margin for error especially if the countersinks are a bit flogged out already.
FollowupID:
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Reply By: donks1 - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 07:41
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 07:41
you should be using different nuts for alloy and steel
wheels anyway
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Off-track - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 09:09
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 09:09
True but this is a different issue altogether.
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:19
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:19
I did check this out with nissan and the nuts are the same part number between alloy and steel rims, apparently! The noticable difference is with the necked down stud. (Front only)
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Eric Experience. - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 11:46
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 11:46
Spinefex.
Spot on, You can push out the studs and place a washer behind the head. Eric
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:30
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:30
This would be a sure fire fix, or you could machine a bit off the front of each nut making sure you still had full contact in the counter sink taper.
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 12:29
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 12:29
These are capped wheel nuts? Why not change the wheel nuts to 'open' ended then theres no issue, you can tighten them to what ever you like.
AnswerID:
189281
Follow Up By: blown4by - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 14:38
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 14:38
The way I understand what he is saying is that the stud thread doesn't go all the way to the hub face in which case an open nut will still become thread bound and not clamp the rim to the hub even though
the nut may be "tight". I didn't think he was saying that the stud is too long for the capped nut so becomes tight against the capped end before clamping the rim against the hub but if mistaken I stand corrected.
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 15:08
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 15:08
>> What I discovered is the wheel nut is very close to bottoming out before it clamps the wheel
I thought he meant
the nut was bottoming out on the end of the stud before clamping the rim... No wukkas.
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:26
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:26
Yes as blown4by described, not bottoming out in the capped nut but running out of thread on the stud.
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 11:56
Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 11:56
There are different nuts for alloys and steel rims too.. might be worth checking at a dealer to see the difference
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Reply By: Member - Glen O (WA) - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 12:56
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 12:56
JOHN,
Buy a Landrover! ;-)
Glen.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:15
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:15
In white colour perhaps
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:38
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:38
R U stalking me?
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Follow Up By: pilbaradisco - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 00:04
Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 00:04
How are the Rally 4000's going?
Glen.
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Reply By: Grandpa joe - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 20:04
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 20:04
Spinifex,
I checed the wheel nuts I was running with my ROH steelies ( wich are now for sale in the trader shod with 35's) and noticed they have a wider cone on the front AND the thread cut into the front of the cone has been cut to clear a thread ending stud shoulder, This lets the rim to be held with approx. 4mm to spare. Unfortuneately I am unaware of where they were sourced from. Theyre out there!
AnswerID:
189356
Follow Up By: spinifex - Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:37
Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 22:37
Yes, different nut design or drill out the first couple of threads on the originals would also work.
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446904