Rock Art of the Dreamtime – Calvert Ranges

Submitted: Wednesday, Aug 16, 2006 at 23:22
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We spent 5 days in and around the Calvert Ranges on our trek through the western deserts. The Calvert Ranges are situated about 40km east of the Canning Stock Route between Well 16 and Well 17(Killigurra Gorge). I had read reports of the richness of the rock art of the area and that moves were afoot to possibly restrict visitation in the near future and so we decided to go there this year.

The range is basically a smallish outcrop of tumbled ironstone on the north side, a small water-bearing plateau and deep gorges on the south eastern side. There is a general camping area marked on the Hema Maps and which can be a tad dusty and we managed to follow up the gorge from there for about 100 metres and camp alongside a small water hole. There is a constant dribble of water through two water holes in the gorge, as well as two small trickling waterfalls. The gorge was lush with grasses and had drinkable water about 100 metres from camp. At the top end of this gorge there was, what appeared to be a stagnant pool, and around this pool a number of white gums had grown. As they all fought for space in this cramped area, their branches have grown out and they rub together when even gentlest breeze blows. The result is a constant creaking and groaning of the limbs, like as if they were complaining about their lot.

I was lucky to meet up with another bloke who was interested in the various forms of rock art and he gave me several pointers of where to search for paintings, etchings and petroglyphs.

There are basically three major art sites which have tracks in to them and also some other sites further to the west through the Constance Headland hills and beyond. We visited as much as we could in our stay there and took no less than 700 photos of the various forms of art. There was much rock hopping and we struggled through the rocks and foliage to get to some of the sites, not being the most agile of people, using our walking sticks for support. We were pretty tired at the end of each day and fell into bed quite early after dark.

What we saw was basically three forms of rock art, those of paintings in white, yellow and red ochre, depicting all kinds of forms and squiggles, which of course, is open to interpretation. Then there were the etchings or peckings, which depicted emu feet, emu eggs, snakes, emu’s, kangaroos and turtles. Then we saw some amazing petroglyphs (rock carvings), deeply grooved into the stone and undoubtedly of a great age. The style was far superior to that of the etchings. I was fascinated by a very good petroglyphs of a Tasmanian Tiger, a family of beings, a face (not unlike a painted Maori face) and a body wrapped in cloth ready for burial. There was also a magnificent hand carving in which my hand fitted quite well. I have seen many painted hand stencils, but never anything like this.

I have done a bit of reading of opinions by archaeologists such as Dr. Josephine Flood and others and from what I can ascertain no one really knows the age of these various forms of art and even tried and tested dating mechanisms such as Radio Carbon, Thermoluminescence or Optically Stimulated Luminescence dating cannot be sure of definitive answers. Some are as bold as to say 40,000 to 50,000 years but this leaves many questions to the inquisitive mind.

If you are interested in rock art, make an effort to go out there, and view this magnificent collection of ancient art.

Cheers
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Reply By: pilbaradisco - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 00:18

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 00:18
I was there 10-11th of July. Truely amazing. Definatly worth the trip out there.
I came in from the Puntiwarri track,a nice 2 1/2 day drive from Newman.

Glen.
AnswerID: 189402

Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:24

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:24
Mustv'e missed you by a whisker as we drove out to Killigurra Gorge on the 10th July. You weren't with Murchison Safaris Tag-a-long group, were you?
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Follow Up By: Member - pilbaradisco - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:41

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:41
Just had a look at the Calender. We were at the Calvert Range on the 9th and at Biella Springs on the 10th and had a look at Killagurra on the 11th then stayed at Durba that night(when the rain came in). We were a group of 2 cars (white LR Discovery and white Range Rover). That tagalong group were at Durba when we were there. We were at Kunnawarritji on Sat 15th, then headed on the Kidson track to 80 Mile Beach. The rocky Knoll half way along the Kidson Track had some good rock art as well.

Glen.
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 14:52

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 14:52
Willem ,
Did you see the Murchison Safari group ?
Willie
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Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 16:55

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 16:55
Hi Willie

Yep I met Alick and his partner and tagalongs at Sunday Well on the way back to the CSR and had a good chat with him. An affable and knowledgable bloke.
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Reply By: Member - Stephen L (SA) - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:13

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:13
Hi Willem,
Keep up your great reports. It keeps us all dreaming and wish we were out there with you, it must have been great.

Stephen
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Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:28

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 08:28
Thanks Stephen

I try to make my trips as interesting as possible. There are so many kilometres of gravel road 'transport' stages in between places and finding places to duck into always makes for a surprise somewhere along the line nothwithstanding the KEEP OUT, NO ACCESS, PRIVATE ROAD signs which are so prevalent in the north of Western Australia
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Reply By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:00

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 09:00
Agree with the comments above Willem. It just increases my urgency, pity other trips are booked up as I see it. Look forward to seeing some pictures one day.
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Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 17:28

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 17:28
I will bring some pics with me next time I am south of the border.....:-)
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Reply By: Old Scalyback & denny - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 16:44

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 16:44
goodday willem
we arived home a day or hours before you
1 of the places we visited while away was a new national park out from white cliffs
the lady at the new national parks office there sent us out to the paroo darling n/p where there are a lotof the rock chippings i have a lot of photos of these but need somebody to interprete them
this park does not have any infrustructre as yet only a track in and some old telephone poles to slow you down from driving on the Peery lake
one of the things there were weeping mounds ,water weeping from mounds as if they have springs beneath them

we cencus night was interesting as the q about where we were had to be answered honestly "roadside stop 2ks south of Tommingley" was a bit of a laugh filling the thing out

steve
AnswerID: 189525

Follow Up By: Willem - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 17:34

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 17:34
G'day Steve

Those weeping mounds are known as Mound Springs. There are some next to the Oodnadatta Track on the way to William Creek.

How was the Simpson trip?

I stood on the side of the Eyre Hwy somewhere east of Norseman waiting for the Sensus person to drop off a form but I waited in vain......lol I wonder if you have to stand in the corner for not filling one out???

Cheers
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Reply By: Crackles - Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 22:23

Thursday, Aug 17, 2006 at 22:23
Yes Willem it certainly is an interesting area with some of the best rock carvings in Oz. Like you we camped in the same place which unfortunately we found out later to be sacred & is in part the reason the local custodians are looking at closing that area off. It was one place I rarely told others about as it was obvious they would close it to avoid damage when it got too popular. Lets hope with next years restrictions along the Canning that it wont be off limits.
Cheers Craig................
AnswerID: 189581

Follow Up By: Willem - Friday, Aug 18, 2006 at 15:59

Friday, Aug 18, 2006 at 15:59
Hi Craig

The Calvert Ranges art has been well researched by archaeologists and many people have been in there over the past 50 years. Tour operators have worn a path out to the area. I saw minimal litter and rubbish in there(mainly that from idiots who think that they can burn aluminium cans in a fire). I have seen no graffiti or damage to any of the rock art, be it paintings or carvings. I think that in general those who visit the area repsect the antiquity of it all and view it in awe of what the ancients were capable of.

Unfortunately now, with a Native Titile decision, politcial pressure is being entertained by some. If only the owners would draw up a plan and set out a management strategy so that the art remains open to everyone to see and enjoy. Even a pay as you go system with guides to sensitive areas would suffice. My feeling however, is that we are still a long way from that time. I am pleased to have seen it and have only left footprints and tyre marks on made tracks.

Cheers

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Follow Up By: Crackles - Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 21:26

Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 21:26
The beauty of the Calvert is that in the past thankfully 99 out of every 100 people that travel the Canning either don't know it's there or don't take the time to stop & look. Unfortunately as with any indiginous site that gets too popular it will only be a matter of time before restrictions will be put in place to stop the 1% of fools that don't tread as lightly as you. Each time a trek note, forum discussion or map points to a new interesting site, it's amazing to see how fast rubbish, vandilism then restrictions often follow. A point in case is a local fishing hole. Within a year of the location being listed in a Free Camping Guide the site was overrun with garbage & toilet waste. I reckon some sites deserve to be kept quiet.
Cheers Craig...........
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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 21:50

Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 21:50
Craig I have to disagree with you.

Every place on earth should able to be seen by everyone on this planet if they wish to do so.

You are NEVER going to stop lunacy, littering or bad advice...lol

I got into a big argument with a mate after I published a place in 4x4 Australia magazine in 1988. He wanted to keep it quiet and special just for himself and his mates and came up with the same argument as you are putting forward. I pointed out to him that the place was first visited by European sailors from the HMAS Beagle in 1838 and was hardly unknown. It is such a hard drive getting to it that now, almost 20years later, the track is overgrown.

Over used areas have to be managed but 'authorities' are loathe to do this as it costs money and there is generally no revenue in it for them.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 22:21

Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 22:21
As much as I respect everyones right to visit a location I feel some discrection is required at times to minimise the impact on fragile areas that don't carry large visitor numbers very well. Those who do their homework will always find these great locations but won't remain unspoilt for too long should they be advertised broadly. I'd like to think others who take the time to discover the Calvert Ranges will be able to do as we have...... without the pine post barriers & without looking through a chain mesh security fence on a guided tour.
Cheers Craig........
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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 22:31

Sunday, Aug 20, 2006 at 22:31
You are a Romantic, Craig

The Calvert Ranges have a very well worn path going in their direction and this track carries on for another 40 to 60km beyond the ranges as I found out.

I am afraid I will still advocate those who are interested to go and see the greatness of the antiquity.

And so we can agree to disagree.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Monday, Aug 21, 2006 at 19:43

Monday, Aug 21, 2006 at 19:43
Willem I believe it actually carries on for 180 odd KM out to the Eagle Highway although the chances of getting a permit next year have seriously diminished ;-) ;-)
At 30KM the track was pretty hard to follow.
Cheers Craig........
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Follow Up By: Willem - Monday, Aug 21, 2006 at 19:53

Monday, Aug 21, 2006 at 19:53
Hi Craig

No, there are no tracks out there.

Please let me have your email address and I can explain some stuff to you off forum :-) Mine is willem at kempen dot id dot au

Cheers
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FollowupID: 447747

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