Installing Suspension of GU Patrol

you only doing 4 springs and shocks??

Easy job.

Trolley Jack that lifts HIGH, Car stands x4, usual tools, and possibly a crowbar depending on how tight the fit on springs is in their place.

Snowy,
More than likely after the act but make sure you let the brake lines to the chassis go then can get a bit tight when you are dropping the down to get the springs out.

Reading what the others have said, I must be doing something wrong when I've changed springs on mine and a mates GU.

Even after removing the shockers and sway bars, I've still had to use spring clamps and wind them like buggary to get them out (and to get the new ones in).

I measured my rig on the weekend as the driver's side seemed to be down a bit. The differnce between right and left is a full 30mm at the rear and 25mm at the front. I will now need to look at putting those spring spacers on the driver's side, but am not looking forward to doing battle with those bloody springs and clamps!

The job can be made easier by jacking up chassis on both sides and putting blocks of wood under such that its high enough such that the wheel set you are working on is high enough to be fully off ground, i.e. full extension, sometimes springs
come almost out but usually a little stuck on holders.
(have a few log sections here).

Also jack up a wheel and place spring compressors on when spring compressed as opposed to trying to adjust them and compress spring.

Do not try to remove with just one spring compressor , take the time to use two.

Two jacks can also help as does short crowbar and don't want your hands in their
with compressed springs.

Some front shocks don't have much area to hold with spanner to stop rotation when fitting top nut, put all nuts on/off once or twice first with anti sieze grease.

I even do shock rubbers with a little rubber grease on back as some can be tight.

Robin Miller

G'day all,

Unless, I've missed something here ..... everyone one has missed out 1 step ..... Removing the panhard rods F&R.

When I did my King Springs & Koni's the rears fell out easily, the fronts needed a fair bit of jacking, but once again, easily came out without spring compressors.

The only other point with the GU is to get rear sway bar extentions (available from ARB for about $25), otherwise the sway can hit the diff housing when you get into a bit of twisting stuff. The front one is fine.

I fitted King Springs (HD front, EHD rears) & Koni's, both with a nominal 50mm lift. On final measurement I got 65mm lift on the front and 62mm on the rear, so don't forget to measure before and after figures (measure from the hub centre of the axle to bottom of the guard, or plastic flair). If things aren't quite right, this will pick it up.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

There was a post a while ago about moving the brake proportioing valve up by the same height as your lift , I havent done this yet.

Glenn

One other thought after reading PG's comments - don't forget, once everything is together again to properly test the travel and be sure nothing is fowling, that the whole thing sits flat and isn't off to one side or other seriously, and to check all your nuts again after a few hundred k.

The manual actually tells you also about how to adjust the rear brake balance. I know having adjusted mine it brakes better than before it was done where it was too front strong. You need rear braking too, to be effective.