Wonderful MDF.........................
Submitted: Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 20:44
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Willem
When we got back from our last trip I decided to pull all the storage system out of the back of the truck which I had rebuilt out of my old G60. Prior to that the 16mm MDF bits came out of the FJ55 Landcruiser. Every time I get a new idea I buy a few more bits and pieces, cut here, sand there, drill more holes or fit more angles.
This time around I am moving most of the gear(tucker and
camping gear) into the trailer where I am rebuilding the storage system as
well. I am reorganising the back of the GQ so I can sleep there on solo trips and also have better storage for
tools and bits. Am expecting my new storage systems to cost around $100(truck and trailer) for new MDF while I am still using the old stuff as
well.
I cut everything to the size I need and then fit it all together with 50mm steel angles and Phillips head screws. I dont worry about fitting any material or carpet or paint for that matter.
It may not look all that flash but it works.
It is called ' Willembilt '.................LOL
Cheers
Reply By: Old Scalyback & denny - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:04
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:04
goodday willem
how are you both ?
who is doing the extention to the length of the gq if you expect to sleep in the back?????lololol
steve
another job for al & lyn?
AnswerID:
193882
Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:13
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:13
G'day Steve
Yeah, a bit of cut and paste did cross my mind but I do fit in quite easily as long as I don't stretch out.....lol
Cheers
FollowupID:
451756
Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 11:14
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 11:14
Sold the house yet Steve?
FollowupID:
451826
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:39
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 21:39
Same general phylosophy as me Willie.....'cept I use 6mm plywood. I can even stand on it to climb up onto the roof rack. Paint?....who needs it? hahaha
AnswerID:
193889
Follow Up By: geocacher (djcache) - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:06
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:06
Even in 12mm the ply is still lighter and stronger...and doesn't swell terminally when you drown your truck.
Can't beat ply for me.
Dave
FollowupID:
451768
Follow Up By: Barnesy - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 01:53
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 01:53
I've left some MDF scraps out in the rain overnight and they didn't swell at all. A bit discoloured that's all (understandable). I find it's very strong and easier to work with than ply. Ply splits when you put a screw in the edge, MDF doesn't and it's also cheaper. Ply does look a lot better though, just a coat of varnish can bring it up nicely. Personal preference I suppose.
Barnesy
FollowupID:
451784
Follow Up By: JAS095 - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:42
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 09:42
I was talking to sister the other day who works for laminex who sells MDF board and she was telling me there are 2 grades of MDF, the normal one and one that is
water resistant which is usually used in bathrooms, kitchens ect. So I am going to use the
water resistant one for the CT kitchen.
FollowupID:
451809
Follow Up By: Hairy - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:07
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:07
If money is no object you cant go past form ply
FollowupID:
451814
Follow Up By: geocacher (djcache) - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:28
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:28
I've had one camper with an MDF kitchen.
I had to replace the hardwood support runners under it with RHS on teflon as it sagged under it's own weight and the drawers and cupboards didn't want to shut properly after it had been camped in one spot open for 2 days.
It was also bloody heavy compared to the same qty of ply.
MDF is not great for screwing into the edge without it splitting either as it has no perpendicular integrity.
Ply will handle being end screwed if you predrill your holes which you should do if you are end screwing any form of timber. "Self drilling" have made tradesmen lazy, and set unrealistic expectations for home handymen.
They shouldn't be used as "self drilling" screws in all circumstances.
If you want to make your kitchen at least 100% heavier by weight than it needs to be make it out of MDF. If you want to do it right use ply.
Case in point: How many of the extremely popular, quality, robust "Drifta" kitchens are made out of MDF?
Dave
FollowupID:
451819
Follow Up By: Barnesy - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 17:34
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 17:34
Drifta are excellent. I got a lot of the ideas for making my CT kitchen from them. I would think Drifta use ply because of looks. MDF looks crap and who would spend $800 plus on something that looked bad or had to be painted? I will paint my kitchen and don't care what it looks like, it's only for
camping. Personal preference.
Barnesy
FollowupID:
451893
Follow Up By: Willem - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 07:27
Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 07:27
Hey Dave(geocahcer)
I am not building a kitchen but merely compartments for storage.
Yes MDF is heavier but my trailer system will only add about 50 kilos to the overall weight.
Selftapping screws and angle brackets work
well for me and I have had good results.
At the end of the day I can rip my construction out again if i dont like it and re-use it again.
I dont intend drowning my vehicles in any
creek. Been there and done that.
FollowupID:
451979
Reply By: Barnesy - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:17
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:17
MDF is great stuff. I have built a cover to fit over the fridge in the back. I just finishing making a kitchen for my CT. I have plans to make a storage system for behind the front seats of the GQ when i take the seats out for our extended trip next year. Also made a table that folds out from the back door of the tailgate. All out of 12mm MDF.
Just don't try to use any off cuts as firewood or you'll be inhaling toxic fumes.
Barnesy
AnswerID:
193899
Reply By: Gmouse - Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:33
Sunday, Sep 10, 2006 at 22:33
I also got the bleep s with the back of my vehicle ,GU
just today, started making my draw setup , hopefully will give more space
may even take a pic or two lol
cheers
AnswerID:
193900
Reply By: Ray Bates - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 00:36
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 00:36
Wear a mask when you work with that stuff (MDF) as the dust from it is very dangerous and make certain that it is painted
well preferably with a sealer first
AnswerID:
193914
Reply By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 04:36
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 04:36
Willem
That's a good idea to sleep in the car, no centerpedes , no snakes, no Crocs , and when it rains you don't have a wet tent or swag to pack in, When I had my Daihatsu Rocky i used a good swag ,when it rained i slept across the front seats, ,that is damn uncomfortable ,but when i got the ex-Telstra troopcarrier it was like a motel,Telstra had installed a cargo barrier so i cut the center section mesh out and so could enter the rear without going outside ,handy when it's raining or when sticky mud is present,have not used the swag for the last 6 years, may as
well sell it, yep it's 2:35 am coffee was calling
Coffee addict Doug
AnswerID:
193921
Reply By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:56
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 10:56
Hi Willem ,
When you are sleeping in the car on a hot night , how do you get a breeze and keep out the mossies ?
Willie
AnswerID:
193955
Follow Up By: Member - Beatit (QLD) - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 11:25
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 11:25
Sorry to but in Willem and Willie, I have found that one of those computer fans in the window is a good thing. Used one the keep the car temp down when parked in the sun. No reaon why that could't be used for sleeping as
well. Power consumption is .5 amp and shifts something like 6 cubic meters/minute - I suppose a smaller one would be all one would need to stop the car from turning into a steam oven.
Kind regards
FollowupID:
451833
Follow Up By: Robin - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 13:21
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 13:21
We have a couple of ply /frame setups that allow sleeping in back of GU and fresh bug free air was an issue so we sewed up a couple of bits of plastic fly screen
such that top fits over passenger window frames. This gives I layer of flyscreen unlike those sun shade things which use fine double mesh and restrict air flow.
To secure bottom from flapping , have couple of pieces of sticky back velcro permanently on black door trim base of window, that matches piece sewn into flyscreen.
Works
well with great cross breeze possible.
Robin Miller
FollowupID:
451854
Follow Up By: Willem - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 06:58
Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 06:58
G'day Willie
Window sox and a 12 volt electric fan.....or just run the airconditioning....LOL
FollowupID:
451975
Follow Up By: Joombi - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 07:38
Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 07:38
What about Fly screen with strip magnet hot glue gunned to it made to the size of your windows, easy on, easy off, easy to store, works for me
FollowupID:
451981
Reply By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 21:16
Monday, Sep 11, 2006 at 21:16
I'm a ply convert, although I love mdf. The weight and the streangth led me to the ply. mdf will sag a lot of the time. we used to use it as a substrate for corion, but had to rebate alloy c section into the front edge to keem its streangth. Every time you bend std mdf, the fibres weaken a bit, and eventually in a dynamic situation it will weaken a lot quicker than Ply.
MDF does screw
well into the '"end grain", but the correct screws and pilot hole must be drilled. glue is also your friend here. There are 4 grades that I know of and have used. One thats about on a par with cardboard (mdf really is a form of cardboard really), There is then STD (not
water resistant),
Water resistant (usually called HMRMDF) which usually has one of the layers of paper in the construction dyed blue or green, and HD3, which is very heavy, very stiff, very hard, and makes great skate ramps. HD3 is way too heavy for most aplications, and is usually used as partitions in
public toilets etc.
Cheers Andrew
AnswerID:
194043