Kalumburu to Alice Springs - Trip Report 4

Submitted: Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:29
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Back down the road to Drysdale River Station and a Kimberley Special Burger as celebration for having made it to the Mitchell Falls and Kalumburu. We continued back to the GRR and to Ellenbrae Station for the night. They only charge $12 and at the camp there is a large stone building, tin roof but only half walls with a huge donkey hot water boiler so you have hot showers. While we were there we met a young family who had blown a tyre on their camper trailer on a bend. The trailer rolled and pulled their vehicle over too. The trailer was completely wrecked but luckily no one was hurt. They'd been there a week waiting for their new camper to get sent to Kununurra and were preparing to head off again. This is just an example of how a split second can bring disaster and how alert we have to be on these roads. From the Kalumburu road to just after Ellenbrae the road was good but began to deteriorate the further east we went. Lunch was at Emma Gorge after which we walked and had a swim. Emma Gorge is a beautiful place with the towering cliff walls, the ferns growing in the crevices of the rocks and the showers of water cascading from above.

Our aim was to head out on the King River road and camp then go on around to Wyndham but we had been told it wasn't suitable for camper trailers. By now the corrugations were taking their toll on us and we decided to get to the highway and go to Wyndham the easy way. This is what we did and we arrived just in time to set up camp and go to the Bastion Look Out for sunset. Next day we headed for Kununurra where we stayed at the Ivanhoe Caravan Park with another ensuite site. This is the newest park in Kununurra and a Big 4. Although nothing could fault the amenities, the grassy sites and the helpfulness of the staff, I felt that they packed people in a little too closely. We enjoyed our stay and really liked Kununurra. During our three days there we went on an Ord River Cruise with Triple J which was great. It was very interesting to learn the logistics of the Lake Argyle, Lake Kununurra and the irrigation scheme. One day was spent going over Ivanhoe Crossing and out to Parry's Lagoon then back to the highway on the Old Halls Creek Road. Along the this road you can still see the stones laid out by the people who made the road so long ago. We kept imagining the footsteps of the men heading for the gold rush in Halls Creek with their hopes and dreams.

From Kununurra we went to the Bungle Bungles. We had lunch at the first water crossing going into the park and while sitting there enjoying our sandwiches we saw the worst case of ignorant driving I've seen. We could hear a car coming towards the crossing from the opposite side....very fast. To get into the crossing the road makes a turn, runs parallel to the creek, another turn down a steepish incline through large holes with rocks in them and then crosses and exits out a steep climb on the other side. This car came at breakneck speed around the first two corners, headlong down the slope, lurched, bounced and rocked through the holes then launched itself into the water making ripples spread far and wide, then burst out the other side and disappeared. If there had been a vehicle coming in the opposite direction at any stage of this episode there was no way a collision could have been avoided. It was unbelievable.

We camped at Kurrajong campground and spent most of the next day walking around in to Cathedral Gorge, the Domes Walk, the look out and Echidna Gorge. It was hot but the beauty of the gorges and the domes made up for that. At about three o'clock we packed up and headed for Spring Creek campground just off the highway.

Next day began overcast and a bit cold as we passed through Halls Creek and out on to the Tanami. We'd been down the Tanami a few years before and felt that it was rougher this time than then. Having said that, there were some good stretches in between the rough ones. There was such a difference between the Tanami and the Gibson crossing we did. There wasn't the same trees, bushes and flowers. It felt a lonelier place. Still fascinating though. We camped just past the Granites Mine, off to the opposite side of the road near some rocky outcrops. It was here the next morning that we found that the tyre holder on the trailer had cracked the weld. Next morning Ray did the welding job and we were on our way after talking to one of the workers from the mine. He told us that he always checks our campspot for traces of dingo's. They are apparently having a lot of trouble with them around the area.

We got going and found that the air conditioning wasn't working and when we stopped we discovered that a pipe had ruptured letting all the gas go. So, with natural air condition, we headed for Alice Springs. We found out the next day that the part to fix it couldn't be there before Monday. As this was Saturday morning and we had to be home by Friday with Kings Canyon and Uluru still to visit we decided to go au naturale.

While in Alice we spent a day travelling out into the East McDonnell's to Corroborree Rock, Trephina Gorge, Ross River and N'dhala Gorge then following the 4x4 route back through Todd River Station. An enjoyable day, especially the part winding our way to N'dhala and back through the station country.

Finally the last part is next - Alice Springs to home
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Reply By: Footloose - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:37

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:37
Viv when you say "There wasn't the same trees, bushes and flowers. It felt a lonelier place", were you referring to the Tanami or the GJT ?
AnswerID: 194211

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:50

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 20:50
Footloose,

I meant that the Tanami felt lonelier than the Gary Junction Road. I suppose this sounds strange because there would be far more traffic on the Tanami than the GJR. I think I felt that the Gibson Desert despite being a place that shouldn't be taken lightly, still felt full of life. The Tanami to me just didn't give that same feeling. Perhaps it's also that I just found something there while crossing the GJR that drew me in. Others might find it different.

viv
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FollowupID: 452102

Follow Up By: Footloose - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 21:00

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 21:00
It was an interesting observation. My passenger claimed that the Great Sandy wasn't a real desert as opposed to the Stony or Gibson. Personally I found the GJT fairly remote but much of it had lots of vegetation. (and after being stuck there in trhe rain last year I know where it came from !).
I'd guess that he would have found parts of the Oodnadatta Track more like the desert landscape that he's pictured in his mind.
How were the corregations past Well 33 to the Great Nortrhern Highway ?
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FollowupID: 452106

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 21:38

Tuesday, Sep 12, 2006 at 21:38
From Well 33 there were stretches of corrugations but they were not all that bad. There were some wash outs and rocky stretches too but once we got to the salt lake country the road was good going. From Punmu to the bitumen was good.

The part of the Gibson Desert that I saw was full of flowers and colours. Maybe I was lucky to see it at a peak time. So, what I was probably saying about the Tanami and the Gibson was about how they affected me more than anything else.

Viv

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Reply By: Member - Jeff H (QLD) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 00:42

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 00:42
bleep mate, you've done well.
Accurate? Yep.
AnswerID: 194254

Reply By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 07:31

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 07:31
Gday Vivien

Sounds like a great trip and well written. The family with the rolled trailer and car, wouldn't have been a dark blue Pajero, brown camper trailer and the driver's name Richard? If so, they had a bit of rotten luck, but took it pretty well and continued their trip. We met them at Home Valley. They had just come from Whyndham on the old Kurunjie road - You would have been fine with the camper trailer). They weren't going to go to Kalumburu/Mitchell falls, but decided to around our campfire..........After we went home the next day, they went on a horseride, Richard got thrown off and broke a couple of Ribs, They then left for Mitchell Plateu the next day, and had 3 blowouts, with the 3rd causing the rollover. Wouldn't be fun with broken ribs.

They had our contact details, and got in touch when they got back to KNX, where they stayed at the Pub. Their car got a few 'bandaids', and resumed their trip a week later with a new camper trailer. Bit of a plug for NRMA insurance - there was apparently a brand new CT on a truck from Adelaide within 24hrs of the phonecall from ellenbrae, they got held up in KNX a few days waiting for car parts...... then back on the road they went.

Will be interesting to hear about the rest of their trip!

Cheers andrew
AnswerID: 194261

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 07:55

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 07:55
Andrew,

Yes, that's the same family. They told us about their day at Home Valley when Richard broke his ribs. They were remarkable in their sense of humour and their insistence that this accident wouldn't stop them enjoying their trip. I'm glad to hear that they made it up and back to Mitchell Falls etc.

Viv
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FollowupID: 452166

Follow Up By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 08:03

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 08:03
They definetly had a good attitude towards it all - not sure howfar they actually got after they left KNX, will email them in a week or 2. The camper they destroyed was a great unit as well, Solar panels, had a neat little tent attatched under the fold out bit etc, but as Richard said, its just a material thing that was insured, they got out of it pretty well, and got to see a couple of sights near to KNX to make up for some of their lost time.

Can't wait to get out there again, I've pencilled in May 5th to take the family up there......if the road is open!

Cheers Andrew
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FollowupID: 452169

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:20

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:20
Andrew,

We hope to get back up there again soon too...so many things to do and so few holidays!! Work gets in the way.

Viv
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FollowupID: 452179

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