The Last Gasp...Alice to home Trip Report 5

Submitted: Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 08:47
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On our last night in Alice Springs we decided to go out for pre dinner drinks to Lasseter's Casino. We had to fight crowds of excited young people gathering around the building beside the casino. It seems that the Year 10 Formal was on and as we had our drinks we watched the young ladies and their partners arrive. What a display! They came in such a variety of transport, ranging from modern day Mercedes and sports cars, to vintage cars, motor bikes and the best of all - the local police "paddy wagon"!! It was fun to watch and they were greeted like movie stars.

Over the last months I'd been talking to Laura B and we hoped to meet up at Kings Canyon. As happens to most of us on our trips, things change and plans get altered along the way. She was ahead of schedule and at Ayers Rock by the time I got to Alice so we missed by a couple of days. They were having a great trip though and I'm looking forward to hearing about it when she gets home.

From Alice we went out to Hermannsberg and stopped at the Historical Precinct to look around and get our Mereenie Loop pass from the local service station. This road is an example of how things change in such a short time. When we were camped at Redbank Gorge in the first week of our trip we'd been told that the road was terrible. Luckily for us, by the time we got back the graders had been out there and it was really good going. It was an enjoyable drive. One day I must get out to Gosse's Bluff it looks so impressive. We got to Kings Canyon late afternoon and set up. We decided to go to the bbq and nightly entertainment..mainly because we didn't feel like cooking for ourselves! It was a good night. The group called "The Roadies" put on a show which involves getting the kids up on the stage with them. They sing mostly Australiana type songs and give the kids a variety of clackers, bangers, whistles, and bells to play and hats to wear. Then they give them all sorts of actions to do. The kids just love it and the parents really appreciate it.

Next morning we spent about four hours climbing and walking around the Rim Walk. Kings Canyon is so beautiful with the shapes, the colours and the markings. Those canyon walls look like someone has come along and cut them with a knife, they're so straight and sheer. It was really hot though and we would have appreciated our air conditioning when we got back into the car.

On we went to the Lasseter Highway and Yulara where we set up camp. Our site was so small that it was difficult to get both trailer and car onto it. This is one place where a tent would be best as they at least have grass to set up on. It didn't matter for one night so we set up then headed out with bikkies and cheese to watch the sunset on Uluru. Back at camp we heard that Steve Irwin had died and couldn't believe it. We were just stunned.

This was Ray's first time to see "The Rock" and even though he'd seen photos and thought he knew what to expect he was still surprised by it. It is so much more than the photos! The colours, the folds and creases, marks and shapes all give it character and a mighty presence. It has a magnetism about it that draws the eye.

The park entry fee is $25 per couple for three days with children under 16 free. When we got there the next morning the climb was closed because of strong winds at the summit. We decided to go out to the Olga's and walked around there for a while. Back at Uluru we had a look at the cultural centre and spent about an hour looking, reading and learning. I think it's very well done. We decided to drive out and walk around Uluru but when we got there we could see that the climb had opened. It's surely a daunting sight when you get to the bottom and look up at the endless line of chain looming above, but up we went. This is the third time that I've climbed and the least stressful. The times before I've had my children with me and this time I thought Ray could look after himself!! It's hard work as you know, but such a great view and sense of achievement when you reach the top.

The time was now running out on our trip. We had to be home by Friday because my daughter Hannah was coming home after two years overseas. We decided since it was only about 3pm that we would leave and get a couple of hundred kms travelled before dark. We made it to Kulgera by dusk.

Three things happened here at Kulgera. Number One there were people from my home area camped there. Number Two - it came up windy and blew a gale all night during which Ray got up to check on things, stood on my glasses and snapped a piece of the lens out and Number Three - we caught up with some blokes we'd been camping next to at Yulara. The interesting thing about them was that they had been to the Birdsville Races on the Friday and Saturday. They left on the Sunday, had one night in the Simpson Desert and were at Yulara by the Monday night and back at Kulgera on the Tuesday night. This seems like the fastest desert crossing..a mad rush.

Just the same we were now on a mad rush ourselves. The wind blew a gale all night and the morning was cold. This continued all the way down the highway with the only compensation coming when at Marla I got a message on my phone to say that we'd had about an inch of rain back home. That made suffering the extreme change of temperature worth while. It was too windy and cold to do the usual stop, boil the billy and have morning tea, lunch etc so we made good time down the highway. On the way up we had liked the look of Lake Hart and thought we'd camp there on the way home. It was mid afternoon and still blowing when we got there so decided a motel in Port Augusta looked like the best bet. We didn't know that when we got to Port Augusta there'd be no rooms available!! Something big was on in town and we had no luck at all. It was still blowing and now even raining. We went on. We didn't feel like setting up the camper in this weather and when we got to Wilmington the hotel lights looked so inviting. We got a room...typical old hotel room with bed, wardrobe, dressing table, wash basin with the toilet and shower down the creaky hallway. That was great and a better way to end the trip than in a flash motel room.

Next day we drove on to Adelaide to see Ray's daughter and family then finally got home Friday 8th September mid afternoon. Hannah got home about 9pm and we talked until well after midnight. It was so good to give her a hug and to see her face while we talked. Two years has been so long.

So that's the end of our trip. Thanks to good advice from exploroz we adjusted our tyre pressure to 26 on the dirt roads and had only a blow out and a puncture. We thought that was pretty good for all the rough roads we'd travelled. The catches on the back of the camper trailer snapped and had to be replaced and the tie down ropes on the cover of the camper were not strong enough and we replaced them as they broke. The screws on the kitchen part of the camper came loose but they were easily tightened and the spare tyre support on the trailer cracked the weld. The main thing to happen was the air conditioner but we'll get that fixed now we're home. I consider anything that doesn't stop you driving isn't a major disaster.

We did about 13000kms with about 6000kms dirt. We're already planning for next year.

Thank you everyone for putting up with this report and thanks for all the nice comments.
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Reply By: Des Lexic - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:25

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:25
Viv, I have read all your reports with great interst and thank you for submitting them. You write with an entertaining style and I have enjoyed them immensely. Sure is a graet place out there this country of ours.
I asked one of my work colleagues where Bealua was and she said it's just down the road from where she is from (Birchip) so now I know LOL

Thanks again and happy planning

des.
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:31

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:31
Hello Des,

Thanks for your comments. Funny thing is that I actually live just 8kms to the west of Birchip...and half an hour from Beulah. I work and was born in Beulah and parents still live there.

Viv...dashing off to work and shouldn't be still here!!
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Follow Up By: bruce - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 10:27

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 10:27
Yeah , another funny thing ...I grew up in Birchip...know it and most of the elder locals well..actually went to school with a lot of them....cheers
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Follow Up By: Des Lexic - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 11:26

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 11:26
She is actually from Curyo. Her father (Jeff) died earlier this year so you possibly know them. Her ex is also from Birchip and his family are still there. They have a fuel outlet on the Sunrasia Highway.
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Reply By: Member - Banjo (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:31

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 09:31
Vivien

Thanks for an informative report.
Reading of your travels brings back many pleasant memories.
However I disagree with one thing, the Rock climb viewed from the top I think is more daunting than from the bottom. But, at that point you don't have a choice.

Banjo (WA)
AnswerID: 194282

Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:20

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:20
Thanks Banjo,

Climbing the Rock is hard work, no matter which way you look at it. Glad your memories were pleasant.

viv
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Reply By: Member - Howard P (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 12:59

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 12:59
Hi Vivien
Thanks so much for all your reports - we are heading off in 10 sleeps (who's counting) to Meekatharra then on to 80 Mile Beach, then to Derby and GRR, next to Bungles and back to Broome. Then we will go through Karijini and head home to Perth. Your information will be invaluable to us, and we hope we don't meet the same fate as the poor family with the camper trailer!
Thanks again for the information.
Regards
Diana and Howard (Perth)
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:22

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:22
Hello Diana and Howard,

Have a wonderful trip. I'm glad that you got something out of our trip report. Enjoy yourselves and I'll look forward to hearing about it when you get back.

Happy travels,

Viv
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Reply By: Member - Lance S (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 15:44

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 15:44
Hi Viv, fantastic reading of all your trip reports, just can't wait for the next 9 months to fly before we head out for our trip of a lifetime. Would be great to catch up within the next updeen months for photos and a chat. Again, great reading.
cheers,
Lance
Home Away from Home

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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:26

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 22:26
Lance,

We'd be happy to catch up and have a chat. Just send me a message and we'll work something out. We've got plenty of photos and video footage too.

Thanks and glad you enjoyed reading about the trip.

Viv
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Reply By: Rick (S.A.) - Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 21:12

Wednesday, Sep 13, 2006 at 21:12
Viv,

Thanks for making the effort with the report. It was / they were a good read.

Did you cross any explorer's tarcks on the way?

How's the Mallee? It's RS over here in South Oz.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 08:23

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 08:23
Thanks Rick,

The Mallee needs rain. We got some a week ago which kept things going but we really will need follow up soon.

We would have crossed Stuart's tracks and I don't know exactly where the Gary Junction Track is in conjunction to Gibson's tracks. We saw a Hann tree carving and Gregory memorial at Port Hedland. We followed Len Beadell markers across the GJR. I'm going to get the maps out with the explorer's routes and see just how many we did cross or come close to. I'm embarrassed at my ignorance .. so will have to remedy that.

Saw a new book on Stuart called "Mr.Stuart's Track".

Viv
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Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:15

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:15
Viv,

Mr Stuart's Track is a good read. I have a copy, but I can't resist stuff like that!

Worth while for anyone interested in Australia's history, but especially so for travellers of our arid lands, who will gain an appreciation of what it was like not so very long ago.

Cheers
RM

PS do you know the Dart family (farmers) from Warracknabeal?
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:24

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:24
Hello Rick,
I've been composing some words of explanation to you as to why I put "Gibson's Tracks" when I know that Giles the explorer and Gibson got into dire straits, Giles sent Gibson back for help and Gibson got lost and died. I was slightly sleep deprived this morning!! My son, travelling from Los Angeles to Mexico City found on arrival in Mexico that he'd lost his bank card. Phoned me in distress and I spent a couple of hours in the middle of the night getting his card cancelled and a new one issued. He'd been living in edinburgh and his bank was there so thank goodness for time zone differences. Anyway, like mum's do, I couldn't sleep after all that and this morning my brain was souffle.

I almost bought Mr Stuart's Track in Broome. There is an excellent bookshop there and I could have bought dozens of books. I am intending to buy "Australia twice Traversed".

About the Dart family. I know them but not really well. If it's the same family they had a daughter or sister called Dianne who went to School at Warracknabeal with my sister Andrea. She would be about 49.

Best wishes

Viv
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Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Friday, Sep 15, 2006 at 20:12

Friday, Sep 15, 2006 at 20:12
No probs re Gibson. I think my grey cells computed Giles anyway. Giles wrote so beautifully.

In Cullen Bay, Darwin, there is an excellent bookshop also. I almost always see soemthing there that I have not been aware of before, so the Visa card gets a flogging.

Yeah, Alison married into the Dart family. I think her husband is around 50. Anyhow, she is well connected to one of Stuart's companions on their successful south-north journey. Her forebear, John McGorrery, was a champion shoeing smith and shod 71 horses (front only) one morning . I doubt there would be a person alive who could do that.

Got a 'favourite" snap to email me of a particular piece of country on your trip? I could do with a new desktop picture. I'll return the favour.

Cheers

RM
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Reply By: Motherhen - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 00:31

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 00:31
Thanks for your great reports Vivien. I will keep reading them with envy.
Motherhen

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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 08:26

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 08:26
Hello Motherhen,

Thanks .. I had a lot of fun reliving everything. I'm waiting for my photos to come back. I still have a film camera. I can't wait to see it all again!.

Best wishes

Viv
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Reply By: Hayjude - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 14:36

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 14:36
Great trip report, congratulations on a job well done. I used to live in Colbinabbin but now in Broken Hill. How long was your trip and what type of camper do you have? How did you go for topping up with fresh water? We have a Cavalier Off Road Camper from Broken Hill Campers with a 60 litre fresh water tank and was wondering how we would go as we want to do a similar trip. It's people like you that inspire and help us to plan our next trip.
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Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:43

Thursday, Sep 14, 2006 at 18:43
Hayjude,

We have a Canning Outback Camper trailer with a 60 litre water tank. We also carried another 2 x 20 litre containers of water. We topped up with water whenever possible and wherever the water was suitable. When the water was ok to drink but didn't taste all that good we would fill the 2 separate containers as back up. We used this for washing dishes/ourselves etc so as not to waste the good drinking water. We also bought water from Supermarkets in the 10 -15 litre containers a couple of times. Just so we could be assured of a good cuppa.

Your trailer would be suitable to do all the roads that we did.

Our trip was over six weeks and we did about 13000kms.

You'll get a lot of good information from others on this forum but if you would like to ask us any questions about where we went etc we would be only to pleased to help if we could.

I have friends in Broken Hill and think it's a great place.

Best wishes and thank you for your comments.

Viv

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