load distribution hitch Recommendation

Thank you Ian from Thermoguard and (member) Len W.

We are just completing the pregnancy of getting our very first caravan. Whilst it is exciting it is rather like buying our first video cassette recorder so many things to learn, and many questions to ask , some of which we wish we had asked 5 months ago.

A major question that has had to be sorted very early in the peace was which type of hitch to buy to accommodate a 1994 Pathfinder TI (we love our Pathy) with a 120kg ball weight and a Coromal with about 150kg (unladen) of weight. I know ....dumb...."One of the questions we didn't nail yestermonth."

We will take all of your comments on board and we will go for the but we have another question. There are 2 models

model #1 79504 which is rated at 550lbs and costs $649 and
model #2 76504 which is rated at 750lbs and costs $660.

The cost difference is minimal. Does it follow that it is better to have a bigger one just in case for further down the track situations such as "if our vehicle and caravan change?"

Regards
SKI'er

Hi SKIer,

Sorry, didn't notice your quesion until now. The 550lb/250kg model is plenty of capacity for vans up to 2500kg ATM/250kg ball load. So, unless you think you might want a really BIG van (>2500kg ATM) some time in the future, the 250kg model sill be fine. But if you think it's a possibility the 350kg might be "the go".

Bear in mind that if your using a 350kg hitch with a small van/CT and only, say, 100 kg ball load, if might be a bit tricky adjusting it. That is, each increment of chain link and/or cam position adjustment with the bigger hitch repersents a bigger increment of ball load adjustment.
Ian

Thanks Ian,

Another member suggested alot of my problems with low ball weight capacity on our vehicle could be rectified with Polyaire bags and I visited my local Opposite Lock to see them and learn more about them.

When asked about which HR hitch Opposite Lock said that the lower lb. rated one would be best.

We pick up the caravan this Wednesday. All very exciting and then very soon after that it the HR hitch, polyaire bags and oil transmission coolers.

Then its off for a few short, week long trips closeish to home before the Christmas school holidays begin and all the van parks get really full.. We will use the lay up waiting and planning for February when we intend to do a 3 monther from Ballina to Ceduna and home.

Thanks for your input
SKI'er

Hi SKIer,

I'm afraid the advice about polyairs may be a bit misguided. While they are an excellent product and fantastic for helping to carry heavy loads IN the vehicle, they are completely unrelated to issues of ball weight and weight distribution.

The ball weight limit is determined by the manufacturer of the vehicle, presumably taking into account the strength of the chassis and the hitch receiver mountings, etc. Now, it's fairly common for there to be a ball load limit of 120kg applied when using just the standard tongue, but a higher load is often allowed if using a WD hitch (with the incredibly strong solid-tongued ball mount). If your hitch receiver (towbar) is a Hayman-Reese, phone and ask them what the ball load limit is if using a WD hitch. If it's a genuine Nissan hitch receiver, good luck trying to get any sensible answers out of anyone. (And if the Nissan hitch receiver design on your model Pathfinder is anything like the new model Pathy, I wouldn't tow a box trailer with it!)

As I understand it, the correct way to use air bags (PolyAir etc.) and WD hitches is like this:

The airbags are to help carry the load IN the vehicle. Measure the distance from the rear wheel arch to the ground with the vehicle empty. Load up with your full travelling load in the back of the vehicle (Car fridge, camping gear, tools, spares, etc., etc.) and adjust the airbag pressure until the rear wheel arches are back UP to the original height.

Next, on flat ground, adjust the caravan jockey wheel until the van is level or just a tad nose UP. Back up to the caravan and adjust the ball mount so that the ball is in line with the coupling. Now (still uncoupled from the van), measure the height of the vehicle's FRONT wheel arches. Couple up the caravan in a straight line on flat ground and now adjust the WD hitch tension (using the adjustment cams) until, with 3 loose links on the chains, the height of the FRONT wheels arches is brought back DOWN to the uncoupled height.

You now have your caravan coupled and the ball weight distributed so that the weight (and hence steering and braking ability) on the vehicle's front axle is the same as it was uncoupled.

"I am surpirsed the caravan suppler said ..."
and
"now just have to tell SWMBO that I need to spend the extra $$"

You answered your own question...
Caravan seller too interested in selling caravan...

cynic - me!

Ken

Hi Russell,
Tell SWMBO it's pretty cheap insurance to safeguard your $20K+ van. Does the dealer by any chance sells Camecs but not H-Rs?
Re. ball weight 105kg :- That may well be the tare ball weight - when the van was dead empty at the factory gates. What matters is what it is when your fully loaded and ready to hit the highway - and I recommend you weigh it to find out.

Many city rubbish tips/transfer stations these dyas have in/out lane weighbridges. If the pick a quiet time, the operator will often let you use one for a few minutes to check your van. Drive across the bridge until the tow vehicle rear wheels are just off the bridge. Note the weight now(A). Next, release any weight distribution bars fitted and note the weight - this is your static axle load(B). Now, fit the jockey wheel and raise the coupling just off the ball (with the jockey wheel just ON the bridge, of course - and you NOT standing on the bridge during any reading too!). With the van now separated from the vehicle, this is your ATM (aggregate trialer mass).

Now, ball load = ATM(C) - static axle load(B), and is hopefully ~10% of ATM.

The first weight(A), with the WD bars installed, should be a bit higher than the static axle load(B) - this difference is the proportion of ball load being distributed to the van axle - the rest is being put back on the front axle of the tow vehicle.

Hope this is not all gooble-gook. If so, PM me and I'll have another go.

Hi Russell,

Our current van came with a Winegard Sensar III and we're very happy with it. Simple and convenient to use and works at least as well as our previous external antenna/booster on a telescopic pole. It's been up in some very strong winds with no ill effects. When factory installed they presumably make sure the roof is adequately strong for the antenna mount. Fitting aftermarket might be trickier if any extra roof bracing is needed.

300kg payload for single axles and 400kg for tandems seems to the de facto 'industry standard'. And yes, that has to include gas, water and any accessories added post-factory, like roll-out awnings, TV antennae, etc. before you even load a pair of clean socks!

You can get a higher payload but it costs money. Most custom-builders will build you a van with a higher payload and if you're really keen, you can have a van modified and re-certified.

We did this with our current van - it was a standard 18' tandem pop-top which we got near-new at the right price. We then paid Caboolture Caravan Repairs to strengthen the chassis for better rough-road ability. The original (remarkably accurate) Tare was 1550kg and the ATM 1950kg. CCR added 90kg of steel and extra spring leaves and I added 60kg of batteries from our previous van and it was re-Tared at 1700kg But, more importantly, because of the chassis strengthening, they were happy to certify it for an ATM of 2300kg (the original axle group rating is 2900kg, so plenty of margin there) - giving us 600kg of payload. This is all stamped on an official Qld Transport modification plate.

No connection to CCR - again, just very satisfied customers.
Ian

Russell, if your max tow limit is 1500kg and the van is 1500kg when loaded, which it will be, if not over, then you won't be able to carry, legally, anything in the cargo section of your car, and not only that this includes the amount of passengers as well.

Mate these sort of weights are usually only towed by vehicles with a 1800kg to 2500kg tow capacity, not 1500kg as with your Subaroo.

I would be having second thoughts about towing this van with the Subbie.

Just my thoughts

Baz.

Put it this way the ball weight is included in the rear cargo weight of your car, so if your towing at max tow capacity and your ball weight of the van is 150kg then you have to have less weight in your car that equals 2 people of the equivalent weight in luggage.

Baz.

that should read "to 2 people or equivalent weight in luggage"