Roller Draw Lock Help Needed!!
Submitted: Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 13:14
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38874
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alexk
Hi Guys,
I’m about to build a set of roller draws for the 80 series. I have worked out all the measurements the material I’m going to use, the rollers, glue, crews and handles however I’m not sure of the best lock system (so the draws don’t slide out).
The tricky part is my design is such that the front panel on the draw sits flush with the frame that it sits in. In other words
the gap required at the sides and bottom for the rollers is covered by the front panel of the draw, so dust, water, dirt doesn’t get in there.
So this means a standard sliding bolt lock doesn’t have anywhere to stick into. Unless I glue and crew the metal brace that comes with the lock to the side (grain) of the Ply on the frame. Would this work? Alternatively, I have thought of a bolt that sits inside the draw and therefore can slide into the wood frame. Obviously there would need to be a slot in the draw front to allow the lock to out/close from the outside. Does this make sense? Does anyone know where I can get such a lock?
Any ideas, comments would be great.
Thanks,
Alex
Reply By: Gordon from Black River 4wd Club Inc - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 16:42
Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 16:42
Alex,
The paddle locks from UES work a treat if you can fit them in.
I think it is black widow who use these - if not it is one of the commercial manufacturers.
I have them fitted to my drawers which also sit flush.
No rattle - no nothing over thousands of off road k's.
Every thing else I have tried either rattled or broke.
About $20 each from memory.
www.uesint.com/
Gordon
AnswerID:
201275
Follow Up By: alexk - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:10
Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:10
Thanks
Gordon,
I've had a quick look, unfortunately the pictures are quite small and difficult to see exactly how they work. I assume I'd need to cut a square block out of the draw front panel to mount the unit in. I can't quite understand how the bolt/rod/whatever sticks into the side of the case/housing. Can you shed some light for me?
Thanks,
Alex
FollowupID:
460565
Follow Up By: Gordon from Black River 4wd Club Inc - Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 14:22
Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 14:22
Alex,
Yes you need to cut out a rectangle in the front panel - there is a gasket supplied which can be used as a template.
In operation not much different to a lockwood lock. To close you simply push - which forces the tongue to ride over a tapered striker.
Opening is simply a matter of lifting the handle which pulls the tongue from behind the striker.
Providing you use good quality runners (again from UES) there is no need for pull handles.
Unless you want additional security there is no need for the key locking version.
Cheers,
Gordon
FollowupID:
461192
Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:16
Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:16
Alex,
The Drop-T handles have an udjustable "blade" that turns 90 degrees. The adjustment allows for in/out adjustment to add or remove "play".
You cut a block out of the front face of the drawer (the gasket is a good template) and position the lock either towards the bottom of the drawer if the blocking plate or lug is attached to the floor, or towards the top (more common) if the "lug" is attached to the underside of the drawer roof.
The idea is for the "blade" to swing behind the immovable "lug" thus stopping the drawer from opening. The "lug" can be as big and strong as you desire.
The Drop-T handles come complete with a lock & key set and I believe you can buy them in sets for a keyed alike solution. Of course, you don't have to use the lock.
Just flip the T handle out and turn 90 degrees to open the drawer.
AnswerID:
201325