Roller Draw Lock Help Needed!!

Submitted: Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 13:14

ThreadID: 38874 Views:4907 Replies:6 FollowUps:8

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alexk

Hi Guys,

I’m about to build a set of roller draws for the 80 series. I have worked out all the measurements the material I’m going to use, the rollers, glue, crews and handles however I’m not sure of the best lock system (so the draws don’t slide out).

The tricky part is my design is such that the front panel on the draw sits flush with the frame that it sits in. In other words the gap required at the sides and bottom for the rollers is covered by the front panel of the draw, so dust, water, dirt doesn’t get in there.

So this means a standard sliding bolt lock doesn’t have anywhere to stick into. Unless I glue and crew the metal brace that comes with the lock to the side (grain) of the Ply on the frame. Would this work? Alternatively, I have thought of a bolt that sits inside the draw and therefore can slide into the wood frame. Obviously there would need to be a slot in the draw front to allow the lock to out/close from the outside. Does this make sense? Does anyone know where I can get such a lock?

Any ideas, comments would be great.

Thanks,
Alex

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Reply By: Gordon from Black River 4wd Club Inc - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 16:42

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 16:42

Alex,

The paddle locks from UES work a treat if you can fit them in.
I think it is black widow who use these - if not it is one of the commercial manufacturers.
I have them fitted to my drawers which also sit flush.
No rattle - no nothing over thousands of off road k's.
Every thing else I have tried either rattled or broke.
About $20 each from memory.
www.uesint.com/

Gordon

AnswerID: 201275

Follow Up By: alexk - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:10

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:10

Thanks Gordon,
I've had a quick look, unfortunately the pictures are quite small and difficult to see exactly how they work. I assume I'd need to cut a square block out of the draw front panel to mount the unit in. I can't quite understand how the bolt/rod/whatever sticks into the side of the case/housing. Can you shed some light for me?
Thanks,
Alex

FollowupID: 460565

Follow Up By: Gordon from Black River 4wd Club Inc - Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 14:22

Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 14:22

Alex,
Yes you need to cut out a rectangle in the front panel - there is a gasket supplied which can be used as a template.
In operation not much different to a lockwood lock. To close you simply push - which forces the tongue to ride over a tapered striker.
Opening is simply a matter of lifting the handle which pulls the tongue from behind the striker.
Providing you use good quality runners (again from UES) there is no need for pull handles.
Unless you want additional security there is no need for the key locking version.
Cheers,
Gordon

FollowupID: 461192

Reply By: Alloy c/t - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 17:06

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 17:06

Now there be a quandery ,lock for security or just to stop sliding open ?? if for to stop sliding open why bother with a lock at all , once you have closed the back doors of the vehicle where would your draws be able to slide to ? tis a perplexing question to be sure.

AnswerID: 201278

Follow Up By: alexk - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:02

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:02

Just to stop sliding. It doesn't need a key lock or anything like that. True, once the doors are closed except for a little movement they'll go nowhere. I would be however a little worried if(when) I need to open the back door and say i'm on an incline. Not sure exactly how much weight each draw will be but i'd rather not try and catch them.

FollowupID: 460562

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:15

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:15

As Gordon has mentioned the UES locks are widely used, however the better ones are called "Drop T Locks".

www.uesint.com/

Bill

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AnswerID: 201286

Follow Up By: alexk - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:23

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 18:23

Thanks Sand Man,
Also look good, still not quite sure how they fit. Obviously a block needs to be cut out. After that does the bar protrude onto the other side of the front panel. How think does this panel need to be? It appears that the bar is rectangular'ish in shape, does this mean more specialised tools than a hand drill are required?
Thanks in advance
Alex

FollowupID: 460566

Reply By: Chucky - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 19:28

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 19:28

Just extend the base of the draws past the draws face enough to give your sliding bolt something to bite into.

AnswerID: 201298

Follow Up By: alexk - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 19:53

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 19:53

I think you may have it Chucky. Although I like the idea of the fancy UES locks they do add an extra level of complexity. I never thought of extending the bottom. I thought of the sides and top and thought they'd get in the way but the bottom... now that's thinking.... I'm be starting the project tomorrow.

Cheers,
Alex

FollowupID: 460584

Follow Up By: Hunjy - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:01

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:01

alexk
I made my drawers out of 12mm ply and made the base protrude past the drawer face so the slide bolt on the security window locks slides down into a hole in the ply base. I made the face of the window locks fit snuge up to the rear tailgate when it's up so as to stop any movement of the drawer unit so theres no rattles and also stops any bending on the bolt slide as this is used just to stop the draws sliding open when on an incline.
I have just used a "D" handle to open and close the draws and the window bolts are lockable.

regards Hunjy

FollowupID: 460604

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:16

Friday, Oct 27, 2006 at 21:16

Alex,

The Drop-T handles have an udjustable "blade" that turns 90 degrees. The adjustment allows for in/out adjustment to add or remove "play".

You cut a block out of the front face of the drawer (the gasket is a good template) and position the lock either towards the bottom of the drawer if the blocking plate or lug is attached to the floor, or towards the top (more common) if the "lug" is attached to the underside of the drawer roof.

The idea is for the "blade" to swing behind the immovable "lug" thus stopping the drawer from opening. The "lug" can be as big and strong as you desire.

The Drop-T handles come complete with a lock & key set and I believe you can buy them in sets for a keyed alike solution. Of course, you don't have to use the lock.
Just flip the T handle out and turn 90 degrees to open the drawer.

Bill

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AnswerID: 201325

Reply By: Oz Travellers - Saturday, Oct 28, 2006 at 09:18

Saturday, Oct 28, 2006 at 09:18

Hi Alex

I built a set of steel roller drawers for my troopy with a key locking system. I have a PDF file with details if you're interested. Sparky

AnswerID: 201392

Follow Up By: alexk - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:20

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:20

Thanks sparky, feel free to send them to... alex.kempson@au.fujitsu.com

I think i'll be keeping it very simple. I'm still in the process of building the case, started yesterday and taking longer than expected (don't help when I continue to chnage my dimensions).

Regards,
Alex

FollowupID: 460922