Jackup

Submitted: Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 11:15
ThreadID: 38923 Views:2004 Replies:3 FollowUps:10
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Want to replace the scissor jack with a decent one, something that will still fit in the back of the vehicle and lift a Sherman tank when needed (and the heavy trailer too). Hydraulic hand pump model?. Some guidelines please wise drivers.
T-Rib
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Reply By: Rick (S.A.) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 12:22

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 12:22
How much weight do you anticipate you'll need to lift?

Assume large 4 x 4 laden to the gills = 3.5 t (your Sherman Tank)- but you only need to lift some of that. Add a margin for ease of use & decent working limit - a 4 tonne jack looks like it may do the job.

At Supercrap (or similar auto store) they will have a bottle jack (aka hydraulic jack) that will lift 4 tonne.

How high do you anticipate you will need to lift?

e.g. flat tyre on 265/75 x 16 " will drop say 200mm.
so you'll need to lift 200 mm
+ say 40 mm to enable easy removal of tyre
+ suspension travel - say 400mm
= 640 mm

Here is an example. They are not actual measurements because I have not nicked into the store/out to the fourby to check the measurements. But this is an example, so that you will see what I am getting at.

Let's look at a 'typical' 4 t jack. The specs say it will raise to 486mm. Therefore although it 'appears' to do the job, it won't lift in one single attempt to change that tyre.

Look at a 8 t jack - heaps more capacity for lift - it says 580 mm. Still not enough to do the job in one lift procedure. A 10 t jack is starting to be very heavy & cumbersome, won't meet your space limits, so we'll stick with the 8 t jobbie.

Maybe you need some other aids to help this 8 t bottle jack do the job.
Bottle jack aids: hardwood block of say 100 x 100 x 100 mm height; 300 x 300x 30 mm thick - 10 ply jacking plate to stop jack disappearing into the sand/mud etc; handle extension so you are not under the vehicle while lifting/changing spare.

There, job done - you required 640 mm lift; this solution provides (jack 580 mm+ plate 30mm + block 100mm) 710mm = 70 mm "spare" = bugger all spare lifting height, really.

BUT have you considered you may need another type of jack?

e.g.
Exhaust jack
Hi Lift jack.
I reckon there will be plenty of threads if you search for same here on EO.

I use a high lift as I have fabricated mounts front & rear to facilitate same. It's quick, simple & easy, but make sure you don't let the vehicle fall off the high lift! Used to do the above example for years (better than screw jack that was standard with vehicle), and I still carry it. Only take the exhaust jack if going in beach conditions as High lift & bottle jacks disappear into the sand , even with a jacking plate.

Horses for courses, T-Rib.

cheers

AnswerID: 201551

Follow Up By: Shaker - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:00

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:00
You could reduce those figures dramatically by lifting under the suspension, as I do.
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Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:11

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:11
how do you?
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Follow Up By: Shaker - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:30

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 13:30
Put the jack under the spring, axle, wishbone or whatever suspension component you can safely put it under.
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Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 17:35

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 17:35
How much weight do you anticipate you'll need to lift?
A light vehicle say 1800kg loaded.
How high do you anticipate you will need to lift?
Approx 620-640mm
The current scissor jack lifts it ok (on hard surface) but a bottle jack would be better and
sturdier I would hope. It sounds like the 8T with a decent sized ply ground plate and block
would do the job.
thanks
TRB
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Follow Up By: Member - Jiarna (NT) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 19:10

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 19:10
If you put the jack under the axle or wishbone or whatever (not the body) you won't need anything like 620 mm. On my 80 series, even with a completely flat tyre, I only have to lift 200mm if I jack under the axle next to the trailing arm. The trick is to find a hydraulic jack short enough to fit under a strong suspension component when you have a flat tyre, but with enough lift to allow a non-flat tyre to be fitted.

I use a stubby 8t jack (and a jacking plate in soft terrain).

Cheers
John
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Follow Up By: Rick (S.A.) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 22:16

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 22:16
D'oh!
Sorry, musta had a complete mental blankwhile typing. Maybe I should read what I post, eh?

Any fool knows that if you lift under a suspension component (e.g. axle) you only need to lift a whisker to change that flattie.

But if you use a high lift on say the Bull bar, you will need heaps of lift as you have to lift that part of the truck high enough so as to let the suspension "drop free" before the flattie gets off the ground.

Again, my apologies for mixing different processes up.

Cheers
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Follow Up By: Andrew-rodeo - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 23:26

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 23:26
Correct me if i am wrong but if a car weighs 4000kg and i want to lift up one corner to change a flat tyre, i would only be lifting approx. 1000kg (plus a safety margin) . I would suggest a small trolley jack they can handle 1500kg, and remember never work under a car that is only suported by a jack, always use chassis stands.
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Follow Up By: Member - Jiarna (NT) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 23:33

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 23:33
You are on the right track Andrew. That's exactly what my brother uses with his MQ Patrol, but he does have to use a large jacking plate to put the trolley jack on out in the bush. Having said that, it is certainly the easiest way to jack up a big 4WD that I've used. Trolley jack and jacking plate take up a bit of room though, which is why I have a bottle jack.

BTW I agree about axle stands, but for just changing a flat tyre, I put the spare under the chassis rail so it can't drop all the way if it falls off the jack. Axle stands are used whenever I place myself under the vehicle such as changing brake pads - I'm not keen on holding up my Cruiser with my bare hands LOL.

John
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Follow Up By: Andrew-rodeo - Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 00:21

Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 00:21
Yes when you are in the bush a log or your spare is a good option rather than carry a chassis stand.
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Reply By: Mikee5 (QLD) - Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 20:24

Sunday, Oct 29, 2006 at 20:24
I use a hydraulic bottle jack. If when you get a flat, the axle etc is too low (or the jack is too tall) to get the jack under, drive the flat wheel up onto a rock or log enough to gain clearance. Old bush trick.
AnswerID: 201629

Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 11:08

Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 11:08
Or even carry a small ramp. Good discussion with some practical ideas. Thanks everyone.
I bought an 8t hydraulic bottle jack today. Will make a solid base plate for it and try to stay off the soft sand !.
cheers
T-Rib
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FollowupID: 461156

Reply By: T-Ribby - Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 15:03

Monday, Oct 30, 2006 at 15:03
Following on from my last post - the reason I went for the larger bottle jack was
because it may be useful to help lift a fully loaded BIG 4WD in trouble somewhere.
Anyhow, was thinking about the comments regarding changing a wheel in sand.
I have a fold-out plastic "cross" that holds up the sag in my camper-trailer awning.
It is spring loaded and held up in position by a 9' tent pole. Only use it when there
is a threat of rain. I wonder how a jack base using this idea would work in sand.
Sketching it out, two pieces of timber 600mm long, 200mm wide and about 40mm thick in
the shape of a cross, rebating by width so the two pieces fit flush across each
other. On top of that would go another piece of timber 200x200 in the centre of the cross for the jack base to sit on and provide support. The theory is that the load would be spread out further than one solid block. Dunno whether it would work but I'm interested enough to make one up and try it out (preferably on someone elses rig !)

cheers
T-Rib

AnswerID: 201810

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