Hot hubs?

i did mine awhile ago 92 gq and had the same dramas, mine were about the same as yours. the new work nissan turned up at site and i checked the temp on them and it made me a little less worried. if there to hot to touch at all you are going to have probs. i was trying to work out hits with hammer and chisel to NM. cheers

Niffty,,,If the bearings are that hot they are too tight. The correct way to set wheel bearings is to tighten the lock nut until the bearing is tight to seat the bearings. You then back off the lock nut until the bearings have a little play then leave them at that. I just cant remember if the GQ has a lock tab or screws, if they are screws and you have trouble setting the adjustment to the screw holes, take the nuts off and turn the bearing plate over, thats the plate with the thread in and you should be right Regards ,,Nav.

Niffty.
The above advise is good, another thing is not to place to much grease in the bearings , if the grease is constantly being churned up it will get hot. Eric.

Just follow the manual for the correct procedure - it is usually right!
Rusty

If you're off the bitumen you don't want to run them with any play. Every corrugation will be an impact load on the bearings. You want a bit of preload - what that does is increases the contact area between the rollers and the races and also makes up for the fact that they are not perfectly round/flat. I think in lateral movement we're talking 0.05 mm or so, a small fraction of a turn of the adjusting nut. You don't want too much preload either because the added friction will kill the grease from the heat and destroy them.

The right preload will require some effort over no preload to turn the hubs by the wheel studs (sans axles, calipers and wheels), but with the wheels on will feel easy to turn by the tyre. It will probably be the next possible set of screwholes/locknut tab/nut castellation beyond no preload, but be careful with locknuts because as you crank down the outer one the preload increases as the inner nut is forced inwards on the slack on the threads. As above, see your manual, pay attention to torque settings if they're provided. If you can't get a torque wrench on it estimate it with a scale or crudely by hand.

The hubs shouldn't get hot - but they will if you test them out in the city in stop-start traffic just because your brakes have to haul down three tonnes of steel every time you stop. Check them on your next decent run down the freeway.

Also if you expect to see much water make sure you replace the seals, Speedi-Seal the axle seal contact area if it's worn, and pack the hub almost full with eg ATX-P that's rated for wet applications rather then straight HTB which just seems to dissolve in water and turn it and your bearings into gooey brown muck! Casper

I'm with Nav8 and Eric.

sounds like too tight, as said above do up and back off one flat or hole on castleated nut dependent on locking arrangement.

And as said DONT put too much grease in there, if you pack it tight they will overheat. There needs to be airspace too.

I had lotsa dealings with SKF at work and that was their instructions.

Ron

Your hot hubs would have been due to the brakes.

Adjusting until freeplay is just eliminated is the usual.