Rough riding Patrol
Submitted: Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 22:39
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davem31
I'd like feedback from Nissan Patrol owners (GU 3.0L 2004) about how your vehicles ride over rougher roads, eg, broken bitumen and severe broken corrugations, as in
Big Desert country. I've recently returned from
Cape York, where I had the misfortune of bending the chassis rails. I've had it fixed and had the chassis and spring seats reinforced. I've also had a Koni upgrade. The ride is a lot better, but I still get this sideways body shake when faced with the condititions mentioned earlier.
Maybe its always been like this and I,ve become a bit paranoid. How does your GU handle similar conditions. Also, I have a squeek in the region of the drivers front undercarraige. (Not from the
suspension as it was present before the upgrade. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dave
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 22:49
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 22:49
Dave,
Without knowing your background (like whether this is your 1st "proper" 4by etc), I'm gunna stick my head out of the trench (ready to be shot at) and say that the Patrol, having big solid beam axles , as it does, is prone to riding a bit rougher on roads that a Blandcruiser would ride over like a cadilac. You see, the majority of 4bys on sale today have these bloody independant front suspensions (IFS) and they are like Mrs Howard at night (ie: next to useless) when it comes to serious off-road stuff. But point the Patrol at some serious off-road tracks and it'll be in it's element.
Horses for courses.
As for you having bent your bloody chassis!!!!!!!!!!! Man, the questions are plenty:
1). what weight were you carrying?
2). what speeds were you doing over the rough stuff?
3). what tyre pressures were you running?
4). were you towing anything with a heavy ball-weight?
I've taken my 2000 GU to the Cape twice now, both times we towed the camper trailer. My rig is renowned for being in need of a registration form to join Jenny Craig......but, touch wood, I have never bent the chassis or spring towers etc. The latter was supposedly a problem with the earlier GU's but I believe the later models have been fixed in that regard.
Cheers mate
Roachie
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Follow Up By: davem31 - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:00
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:00
Thanks Roachie,
I was towing an off road camper trailer and didn't slow down enough an almightty dip just before Musgrove. I had been so diligent up'til then. It was so severe the car stalled. An initial check seemed to indicate all was
well. But that night at Wepa I couldn't get the dolly wheel low enough to unhitch the camper. The chassis rails were bubbled each side above the rear axle.
Suspension specialists couldn't find any other damage. Continued on to Bramwell, where locals thought it would be more prudent to head back south - so i didn't make it.
Regards,
Dave
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Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:14
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:14
Face it Roachie and accept that 'bitter pill'
It IS a Nissan.
Nothing against the transmission's or diff's, but the rest - thats why I bought a JEEP.
(LOL)
Keep poking that head up old son.
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Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:18
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:18
Davem
Did you or anybody else installed polyairs or similar on the rear of your rig before you went on the aforementioned trip.
If you don't know what I am talking about - they are air inflatable bags between the axle and chassis rails.
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Follow Up By: davem31 - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:35
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:35
Hi "Lucy",
Polyairs weren't fitted to the vehicle.
Regards,
Dave
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Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:57
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:57
Hmmm! that rules out one 'culprit' then.
As Roachie mentioned, can't really offer anything unless I had a first hand inspection of the load it was carrying and how it was distributed.
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Follow Up By: Stu-k - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 10:34
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 10:34
What model jeep ya get lucy?
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Follow Up By: Member - 'Lucy' - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 10:44
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 10:44
2005 KJ CRD Cherokee - its a 'thing of beauty'
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Follow Up By: Stu-k - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 19:32
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 19:32
Ya gota love Jeeps!!! best things out there I went the 06 CRD Grand. luv it
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Reply By: acdc - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 22:53
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 22:53
davem31,
Your doing something drastically wrong!
In most cases it comes down to
the nut holding the steering wheel.
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Follow Up By: davem31 - Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:04
Wednesday, Nov 08, 2006 at 23:04
Thanks for your constructive advice. Hope that comment made your day.
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Friday, Nov 10, 2006 at 07:12
Friday, Nov 10, 2006 at 07:12
ac, if I may be so bold as to use your first name, there are a number of cases of chassis "re-shaping" some caused by the poly-airs, some by overloading, and almost every case was caused by that nut you mention. But its still a problem
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Follow Up By: acdc - Friday, Nov 10, 2006 at 22:35
Friday, Nov 10, 2006 at 22:35
Bonz,
I've heard people blame polyairs for chassis problems but i don't believe it,it all comes back to overloading and
the nut.
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Reply By: Bilbo - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 01:34
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 01:34
Roachie ",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,that a Blandcruiser would ride over like a cadilac,,,,,,,,,"
I dunno 'bout that ole son. My former 100 seriesTD Blandcruiser, sexy truck though it was, use to dance all over the place on corrugations. It was like driving on Dancing With The Stars!! All over the place unless you slowed down to less than walking pace. It was like this new sport of "Drifting", only
mine was unintentional.
The Nissan is much rougher on the black stuff, but on the red stuff, it beats the 100 series TD Cruiser all ends up. Straight as a die.
Bilbo
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Reply By: Member - Teabag (Queanbeyan) - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 07:58
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 07:58
davem31,
Mate, it appears that the bending of the Chassis Rail was unavoidable and it appears to have worked out in the end. My question which was mentioned earlier is tyre pressures. What tyre pressures where you running on Gravel roads? This can make a huge difference in many areas, including tyre longevity or lack of punctures.....You will find that live axle vehicles will want to wonder at speed on corrugated roads which is one of the reasons many are going to IFS though not as good in the tough stuff as Live Axle......
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Follow Up By: davem31 - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:17
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:17
Hi Teabag,
Everyone you ask seems to have a different idea about tyre prssure. The most common advice was to have the tyres having a bit of shape without exposing too much of the sidewalls. I think I was on about 35 psi.
The vehicles probably riding okay - it's been tested around local streets (
Melbourne) by people who installed the
suspension kit and front end. I was just trying to recast my mind back to when I find bought it new in 2oo4. I think it seemed to ride better but no-one can find any reason why that should have changed.
By the way, when I drove back to Nissan in
Cairns to see if repairs were covered in the warranty (which they were'nt), the mechanic at Westco Nissan said there were three Patrols up on hoists at that present time all with bent chassis rails (to different degrees), so it is not as uncommon as some may think.
Thanks for replying,
Dave
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Follow Up By: Member - Teabag (Queanbeyan) - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:29
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:29
Mate,
In my opinion those tyre pressures are too high.....Now tyre pressures is a bit of a fine art and trial and error for every different vehicle and load you are carrying. I generally run 28PSI rear and 26PSI in the front (sometimes lower) though this can change depending on how much load you are carrying. If fully loaded then up the rear/front pressure accordingly. You will find this a far smoother ride and generally less chance of puncture. This is my view on tyre pressures, yes others will think different but this has work very
well for me over many, many years without fault.......
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Follow Up By: Member - andrew B (Kununurra) - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:55
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:55
Gday Teabag and davem31
I'll agree with the mentioned tyre pressures, and the drop in speed to suit. I'd rather risk a tyre sidewall or 2 by erring on the low side than having to high a pressure and damaging something else. Although tyres are a bit pricey, stopping as much vibration etc.. at ground level is far better than transfereing it to the rest of the vehicle and its contents. This is most aparent on trailers, especially boat trailers, even on the black stuff many boats have developed fatigue cracks etc due to high tyre pressures, and being strapped down too tightly......(the last one is a toughy, very fine line between firm and too firm..)
I have found the Patrol very predictable on gravel, and I feel more in control in a slide than I have in the few 100 series I have driven, although it may just be familiarity with my car, possibly a toyota driver would find the handling of the patrol not to his liking (although Bilbo in a response above seems to like the GU on gravel better than his previous cruiser)
Cheers Andrew
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Reply By: Outbacktourer - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:10
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:10
Davem,
What is your spring and tyre set up?
My 2002 GU 3.0Di is very very comfortable on rough roads loaded with storage system, roof top tent, 4 up towing a trailer. I will admit to hitting a few washouts a little too hard and it has never hit the bump stops.
Springs: Kings HD Progressive 50mm raised front and rear.
Polyair bags in rear: 12psi only
Shocks: Koni's (longer version to match springs) adjusted 1 turn from full soft at the front and 1.5 turns from full soft at the rear.
Tyres: BFG AT 265/75/16 LT Front 25 PSI Cold, Rear 30 PSI Cold (on dirt) 37 F 44 R (cold) on tar.
Perhaps because my other hobby is racing cars I am always looking to fiddle to get that ultimate set up. I can tell you this is not where I got to on set up by accident.
I changed from Kings linear rate springs (50mm raised) and have found the ride improved noticeably even though most "expert" advice did not like the idea of going progressive rate. I've adjusted the Koni's several times and played with pressures in the tyres and air bags too.
Hope this helps.
OT
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Follow Up By: Member -Dodger - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:22
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:22
Davem
The tyre pressures as stated above are a good measure as you definately do not want high pressures when on rough corrugated roads. I too run these type of pressures when fully loaded IE. over 3 tonnes.
When towing my off road van The pressures are 30psi F. 40psi rear on blacktop and drop the pressures 5psi when on gravel and corrugated roads.
And before someone tries to shoot me down, yes the tyres do wear more on the shoulders however in 60k of off road towing only 2 punctures and the tyres were due for replacement.
When you reduce the pressures you reduce the speed accordingly.
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Follow Up By: davem31 - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:26
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 08:26
Hi,
Thanks for your information.
At the time of doing the damage last year I only had standard
suspension. Last week I had a Koni shocks and Kings springs fitted. It raised the vehicle 50 mm. The
suspension people set the shocks midway.
It rides a lot better now, but there is still a bit of a lateral body shudder occasionally on certain bits of rough bitumen.
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Follow Up By: Outbacktourer - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 09:13
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 09:13
The "bit of a lateral body shudder occasionally on certain bits of rough bitumen" could just be the normal feeling you get from the live axle front end. There is a lot of unsprung weight down there and it does not like sudden lateral movements. It gives you a delayed and larger reaction to the irregularity unlike IFS which handles these situations much better.
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Reply By: Member - Charlie S (VIC) - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 20:26
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 20:26
G'day, have you tried disconnecting the rear sway bar?
Cheers
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Reply By: howie - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 20:39
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 20:39
in all the debates, today and past, about shockies and tyre pressure etc i have never heard anyone mention the fact that whatever system you have, the shockies will get bloody hot on corrugations.
next time you have driven 30 mins on bad corrugations, get the mother-in-law to feel how hot they are!
this was pointed out by a mechanic on a long rough trip, we had stops to let the shockies cool down. (i'm talking really bad corrugations here BTW)
i suppose when the shockies get too hot they cease to do their job.(temporarily or permanently) and if the vehicle is loaded up,
well you work out the rest.
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Follow Up By: Member - Teabag (Queanbeyan) - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 21:31
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 21:31
Commonly know, that is why more serious off-road shocks have a larger
bore this is to help with the dissipation of that heat.......There are other reasons for larger
bore shocks and heat dissipation is but only one reason......
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Follow Up By: Outbacktourer - Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 22:46
Thursday, Nov 09, 2006 at 22:46
You are quite correct howie and that is why there are a bunch of theories on which shock is the best. I can assure you that there are shocks around that you can drive on all day with a big load and have no fade but they are unlikely to be standard fitment to a vehicle.
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