Turbo implant into 60 series Diesel

Submitted: Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 15:16
ThreadID: 39401 Views:7428 Replies:3 FollowUps:8
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Hi, At present I have a 60 series diesel cruiser that is getting a bit tired and I am looking at a new 12HT motor.

With regard to the fitting of the motor, (EG: Engine mounts, Radiator / hoses, wiring looms etc) is there much extra that has to be done to fit the turbo engine to the non-turboed vehicle?

I have no idea so any help will be appreciated
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 16:05

Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 16:05
Had a friend who did this. He spent about $14,000 in parts and labour, and was still trying to get the electrics sorted.

IMO, better off buying a 12H-T Cruiser, transferring the accessories and selling the 2H.
AnswerID: 204672

Follow Up By: ross - Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 19:22

Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 19:22
I dont see how that could be possible . Quite a few others have done it with no dramas.
The 2H and the 12HT have very minimal electronics and the 60and 61 share the same wiring .
You might have to swap the starter relay to get the EDIC and the 12HT glow screen to work.

I replaced the 3F with a 1HZ in my landcruiser and the electrical was quite easy.
When i got stuck I paid a mobile auto electrican 1 hour to come round and sort some relay issues out.
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Follow Up By: Davo_60 (ACT) - Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 20:22

Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 20:22
As above, I thought the swap was supposed to be straight forward also.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 22:32

Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 22:32
Ross and Davo,
Yep, I know what you're saying. I've owned both 2H and 12H-T myself, but the person that I refer to had a few frustrating issues. Maybe they were installer-related, but he did regret doing it at the time, as the costs blew out. I'm sorry I can't remember specifically what the issues were, as it was a few years ago.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 23:30

Monday, Nov 13, 2006 at 23:30
Just had a browse thru the workshop manual, and my friend's problems have have been because he had an earlier 2H - differences included different starter motor, different alternator with external regulator, variations in EDIC (I don't think the 12HT has one - it uses a vacuum operated valve to shut down), and different circuits for the preheat - early 2H had the 20second glow, while late 2H had the superglow, while 12H-T had a preheat element instead of glowplugs. Also the 12H-T engine may have been sourced from a 24volt vehicle, so the electrical bits may have been different. I also believe the clutch is stronger with 12H-T, and some had a vacuum boost for the clutch, while some 2H did not.

My suggestion is that it may not be as straightforward as it looks because of the minor variations. Sorry I can't be more specific, but its worth checking out.
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Follow Up By: Happy Chappie - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 01:29

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 01:29
When you say "earlier" mine is 2/85 and has a 'booster' on the clutch. Is this in the range that has the "extra" to do when converting?
Chappie
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Follow Up By: ross - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 09:40

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 09:40
I can see where your friend run into trouble.He must have been putting it into a HJ47 or something similar.
The vac assisted clutch is a straight bolt on I thought.
I still that its an easy swap if ou use vehicles from a similar year.
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Reply By: Happy Chappie - Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 18:55

Tuesday, Nov 14, 2006 at 18:55
Thanks for your replys and I think I will probably go with the 12H-T unless I find a 2H and aftermarket turbo that works out at a comparable price.
AnswerID: 204941

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Nov 15, 2006 at 10:44

Wednesday, Nov 15, 2006 at 10:44
I was hoping someone who had actually done the conversion would come on line for you Chappie.

Given the choice, a 12H-T is a much better motor. Its built as a TD from the ground up - even has ceramic valves, and has earned a great reputation for reliability. I just wanted to warn you that it may not be as simple as it looks, but that happens with any engine change.

Cheers
Phil
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Reply By: Tuff60 - Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 12:48

Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 12:48
Happy Chappie,
Engine mounts, depending on your chassis, keep and use the ones of your 2H, they bolt to the 12HT, and depending on engine mounts, you may need to use the power steer pump off your 2H, again it will bolt onto a 12HT. If you need to swap pumps remove the idle up assist(has 2 vacc lines, used to bolt on pressure line), from the 12HT pump and put it onto the 2H pump before refitting it. Only difference in pumps is where the pressure line comes out, is in the way when using 2H engine mounts. Radiator is the same, along with all the water pipes. 12HT runs a fuel return system, so you will need either all the steel fuel hoses from the donor car, or run a return line back to the tank. Exhaust, front half is different, rear half(if still factory or similar) is the same. Wiring, honestly, easiest way is remove the dash, label and unplug everything, feed the engine bay wiring back into the cab, get the loom from the donor car and put it back as you found the the original wiring, along with all the control boxes and relays, and of course the dash pod from the 12HT. Depending on what accessories you have running of you loom, should take you maybe three hours, start to finish, much quicker and cheaper, than running hybrid(read confusing mess) wiring done by an auto elec. Again depending on year, 90% plugs straight back in, the wiring running down the left hand side for the rear lights etc, is normally the only one that does not plug in, two options change the plug, or use this loom as well from the donor car. Hope this helps you make up your mind, re reading it, I think it was easier to do than type.
I never buy motors off the ground, I prefer to go to the auctions to buy whole wrecks, or buying rusted out cruisers for their drive line, that way I get all the extras and wiring I need. And can also normally test drive the donor motor.
Again hope this helps.
AnswerID: 209274

Follow Up By: Happy Chappie - Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 20:23

Friday, Dec 08, 2006 at 20:23
Hi Tuff60, I think if I can find a decent 'Donor' vehicle (so I have the bits) I will go with the transplant.
You make it sound fairly simple. I really would like to stay with the 60 Cruiser as they are a solid & reliable vehicle but very hard to kill if you keep the maintainence up and don't let oil-changes run over.

I had a friend who works in the mining industry tell me:
60 series - Couldn't kill'em
80 series - reasonable - but had problems handling the hard stuff
Wont mention 100's
Anyhow, thanks for your feedback,
Chappie
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