dashboard rattle GU III Patrol STL

Submitted: Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 16:07
ThreadID: 39583 Views:2291 Replies:3 FollowUps:7
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Suddenly my Patrol develops a rattle in the fan outlet of the drivers side. It is not going on all the time and when it starts it will last for about 10 min and then disappears. Does anyone know about that and also what one can do to fix this problem. Thanks.
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Reply By: Robin - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 16:17

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 16:17
Mine got a couple of leaves in it and seemed to do what yours does Giggi.

I took the slotted metal panels just below the wipers off mine and pulled them out.

This probably is not the best way , as you can remove the fan housing but I was researching why the car air is hotter than outside air and already had those panels off.

Robin Miller
AnswerID: 205776

Follow Up By: Giggi - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 16:32

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 16:32
thanks for your help, but i think it might be something different. mine sounds like a thin metal wire is banging onto something.
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FollowupID: 465707

Follow Up By: spinifex - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 19:31

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 19:31
Hi Robin

What did you find when investigating why the air entering the car via the vents is hotter than the outside air?

Never found the cause with my old Patrol and the new one does the same. Seems more noticeable at lower speeds

Patrols and other modern cars don’t appear to have a valve closing off the fluid to the heater element. The hot coolant circulates through the system even when the heater is off.

Always wondered if it was the heater partially heating the incoming air or whether the fresh air pick up was sucking hot air from the engine bay.

Be interested to know what you found out. I tolerated it on the last patrol and the new one does the same, this time I am going to fix it.

Regards
Spinifex
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Follow Up By: slush - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 20:47

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 20:47
I had the same hot air problem as you, i fixed it by putting a heater valve in the inlet side of the heater pipe under the bonnet.
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FollowupID: 465736

Follow Up By: Robin - Monday, Nov 20, 2006 at 08:25

Monday, Nov 20, 2006 at 08:25
Hi Guys

Unfortunately Spinnifex I could not come up with a proper fix and I did try hard.

I first thought , that like Slush , that it was caused by an improperly closing water valve, as a little bit is meant to always flow. I fitted and still have an inline 19mm Nylex tap to completely turn off water , and this proved that this was not the problem.

I felt It could have been , heat straight thru the firewall , and fitted aluminium backed insulation across it and this did not stop it.

I felt it was hot air under the bonnet coming up into the vents (There is an air path via the bonnet hinges into vents) , later 2003 models have a block there, and I blocked mine which I think made the tinnest difference but the main problem stayed.

I thought the problem may have been hot air coming into the vents via the seal at the back of the bonnet. I taped up the junction fully , and this did not stop the problem.

I have temperature sensors in the air outlet pipe into the cabin and on the winch on the front of the car.

From these can say what perhaps is obvious in that a huge volumne of hot air is generated by the car it comes under the back of the front wheels and cascades around the bonnet and some goes into the air intake.

This makes the problems a lot worse when stationary. I measure around 7-9c
warmer air into the car when stopped.
as you drive faster , the air from engine is forced back and you get more fresh frontal air, but this air is still 3-4c warmer than outside air.

I have identified a secondary mechanism , and that if can is in even partially
warm sun the the internal plastic air distribution ducting gets hot and warm the cooler incoming air and this effect takes many minutes to dissipate.

A third mechanism is that the fan itself delivers roughly 1c of heat into the air.

The only practical advice I can offer is that the higher the fan speed the lower the temperature rise, and to get a dash cover.

A real positive step would be to insulate the ducting however this is beyond me,
and I just leave the windows down longer before I go for the air-con.

I once had a broken windscreen, and got a standard one instead of the more expensive protector one with internal heat reflecting film

Robin Miller


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FollowupID: 465811

Follow Up By: slush - Monday, Nov 20, 2006 at 22:19

Monday, Nov 20, 2006 at 22:19
Robbin, I understand what you are saying about all the heat from air ducts, fan motor, ect. but i nutted this out over a long time. I was driving to Melbourne one night which i do regularly non stop, but this time i stopped about midnight and found the air was still quite warm coming out the vents compared to out side temp. when i finished what i had to do in Melbourne about ten am that morning i went to the auto barn on the way out and fitted a heater fluid switch for the return trip home. this is how i noticed the major change in air temp from the vents.may be a few degrees higher than out side but not like it was.
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FollowupID: 465947

Follow Up By: Robin - Tuesday, Nov 21, 2006 at 07:09

Tuesday, Nov 21, 2006 at 07:09
Leaking past the valve does happen a bit , or more often , bad adjustment so that it does close properly , thats why one of the first steps I took Slush was to test car with no heater water flow. Although even with water flow , the air flap has no not seal properly so that air actually goes thru core.

Glad you fixed your main problem , driving home last night 33c and air vent temp in my car was 38c , don't like that.

Robin Miller
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FollowupID: 465984

Reply By: spinifex - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 19:51

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 19:51
Hi Giggi

Rattles can be notoriously hard to find, can’t help with yours but will add mine to the list.

Similar noise, sounds like a wire vibrating like a tuning fork. Comes from the passenger side down near the front door speaker but only happens at a certain frequency as the engine moves through the rev range. (About 2100 rpm) back off the power or add more and it disappears.

Removed the plastic side kick panel from the foot well but could not find anything suspicious in there. Might be inside the door??? How far do you go before you give up and live with it?

Regards
Spinifex
AnswerID: 205792

Reply By: donks1 - Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 20:21

Sunday, Nov 19, 2006 at 20:21
i'm asuming you have a manual

the rattle will be caused by the pipe from the clutch master rubbing
it's a common issue.... just folow the pipe and bend it out if the way from other components and chassis
AnswerID: 205798

Follow Up By: shaen - Tuesday, Nov 21, 2006 at 18:35

Tuesday, Nov 21, 2006 at 18:35
Legend. Have been looking for 2 months.

Cheers
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FollowupID: 466113

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