Air Filters

T-Ribby

For a reduction nozzle use a tubeless tyre valve. Cut the rubber bit off the end. It does create a better 'blow'....:-D

Cheers

Thanks Willem - it works !. I never thought of that.
Remind me to shout you a rum in the Birdsville pub if you happen to be aroundabout
between the 23 - 27 May next year.

Terry R.

T Ribby

If your air compressor has some sort of positive attachment to valve ( mine is threaded but not sure about all).
And a connector at the compressor end to disconnect the hose .

You can buy a 'pem' gun from an auto shop ( this has a nozzle to direct the air flow and a trigger to regulate it ) , match the male fitting on the compressor, if you connect the pem gun to one end of the hose and the other end to a tyre you can use the tyre as an air reservoir.

Didnt think this up but works well , although takes up about 100 times more room than a modified tyre valve.

Glenn.

I never thought of that either - thanks
Hoses on both compressors are removable plus I have a 55cm pump hose lock with a coarse
male thread at the other end. If any of these fits a pem gun them I'm home and hosed (excuse the pun) plus Willems tubeless valve reductor.

T.R.

Slightly OT but a whole standard rubber tyre valve with a valve remover screwed on the end of it makes for a good valve remover tool (and a good spare :@)
I use Unifilter oiled filters, and keep a clean outer band in a ziplock bag, which can be swapped mid trip, and removed put back in the bag for Ron (later-ron)
These filters are more work, but let past less fine dust if they are maintained correctly...and thats whats important....fine dust wears motors real quick.
If you do use compressed air to blow out the filter, make sure you blow it the right way one last time b4 reinstall, and you will be agast at the amount of dust that would have been drawn in on startup.
The best paper filter is a washable one (toyota factory ones are, where as ryco are not...) you tap it on the ground, hose it out and put it on the line to dry :@)

Andrew was great ........ it was an easy going and relaxed day. I took it as a learning day and I am still learning what I can do and the capabilities of my vehicle.

In fact everyone on the day were great. The tracks were good and low range was engaged a number of times.

Brian

Brian H and Trevor R,
do you really change oild filters at 5k???? Cool with the air filters depending on circumstances but 5k for oil filters!!! I personally rekon that's a tiny overkill and I do mean tiny. I change my oil every 5k with my usual service but I rekon the oil filter should last at least 10k. There aint that much crap in your oil system.....usually.

But like others have said, it don't cost much.

Toytruck

Brian. If you can get yourself a K&N brand... The initial price is a bit exy... but they are totally serviceable... Wash em out then re oil em!!! I looked after properly they last for donkeys... They leave standard paper elements for dead, you might even notice a slight improvement in eng performance as they are a lot less restrictive.
Cheers. RG.

Toytruck,

Absolutely change my oil filters every 5k. I have even made up extra pages (same as in genuine log book) and my mechanic is still stamping the services at 285000km. Maybe it is a little over the top, but only time will tell if it works out cheaper in the long run. If I am still going a couple of hundred thousand longer than others with the same motor then I will consider it cheap. Often my oil and filter changes happen more than once a month. Have often thought of an oil bypass filtration system but haven't got that far yet.

I also tow and work my vehicle quite hard, so it just seems right to do it this way. Your log book will suggest this under "extreme" conditions if your's is turboed.

Cheers Trevor.

Yep I change my oil filters at 5000 maybe not as strict on the fuel filter. Maybe an over kill but I feel better for it :)

Brian

Hey I'm with you guys, certainly carnt do any harm. I do my oil every 5k but have been leaving my oild filters to 10k, but having said that, woith work the way it has been for some years not a lot of my trips are on the black top with a weekend stint here and there.

Toytruck

Don't know about the bitten bug ..................... asumption more likely, I mean a genuine lockable fuel cap for my rodeo is $238.00 so why should I figure an air filter was cheaper as genuine. To be honest I only checked it out becasue someone earlier on this thread said they used genuine filters for there particular vehicle, so figured i'd get a price.

Super cheap oil and fuel filters are cheaper ..... I use valvoline for all my filters but will check K&N as well.

Not sure about washable but will get the blower out :)

Brian

AS a plant Mechanic, have discussed this subject with donaldson and Fleetgaurd and the recomendations are to NEVER blow an air filter out with compressed air because as oldmike2 said, you can blow a pin hole in the element that you wont be able to see and can be life threatening for the engine. Donaldson also state and recomend that a partially blocked air filter provides better filtration then a new filter because the micron rating is lowered with a part blocked filter.
I have found the best way to tell when to change is with an air restriction indicater as used on trucks and earthmoving equipment because the more you remove the filter to check for cleanliness the more chance you have of dirt and dust entering the intake and dusting the engine unintentially.

As a diesel mechanic i think it is fine to blow your air cleaners out. Most machinery places blow the outer cleaners out at least 3 times before replacing.
Work air from the inside to the outer . Never the reverse
Bloody hell if you changed the air cleaner every time they got dusty on our d11 you would be up for a fortune $300 a pop or more! & sometimes when working in ash that would be at least once every second day.
Do not use foam replacement filters off road i have seen a lot of motors dusted because of these..
Stick with paper . Valvoline filters are as good as any.
Tapping is fine as long as you use the palm of your hand & do not bend the cage at all (use this method only if your stuck because it takes a while) just be gentile.
If your filters are cheep ignore all the latter & just check upper & lower seals.
Personally i replace my air cleaner after 10,000 or 5000 if it is real dusty (in those situations i use the tapping method as needed up to 5000klm)....666TOY

Thanks rodeonut now i'm not sure if I'm not better off leaving my filter for a bit longer LOL ..... I will take a photo and get an opinion on my filter.

My use is mostly just city stuff so maybe i'm doing a major overkill with the filter.

Brian