Rotating tyres

Submitted: Wednesday, Dec 13, 2006 at 23:38
ThreadID: 40341 Views:4719 Replies:9 FollowUps:15
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"Radial tyres have the webbing, textile or steel, set at right angles to the centre line of the tyre," Mr Brown said. "This allows greater flexibility in the side wall and thus a softer ride "Steel belted radials should not be rotated from one side of the vehicle to the other because this causes the tyre to run backwards and can cause the steel belt to separate from the rubber."
Read this interesting comment this evening on a motoring website. Having just replaced two rear A/T's with two new (steel belted radial) A/T's, I went out and had a look at the way the tread pattern faces on each tyre. On the left rear, the outer tread groove slopes backwards and on the right it faces forward. As there is no arrow mark on the tyre which would indicate unidirectional, does it really matter which way the tread faces?.

T.R.
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Reply By: Redback - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:41

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:41
RUBBISH

Manual vehicles all 5 tyres must be rotated that includes the spare!!

Auto vehicle 4 tyres, not the spare!!

Non directional tyres can be rotated any way!!

Directional tyres front to back only.

Constant 4wd vehicles in manual, "the spare" must go on the front only.

Baz.
AnswerID: 210294

Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:50

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:50
That's how I understand the rotation rules too. I'll file this one with my left-handed hammers.
T.R.
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Follow Up By: Leroy - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:59

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 07:59
What's with not rotating the spare in an auto?

Leroy
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Follow Up By: Redback - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 08:18

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 08:18
Well Leroy according to the manual on my old Explorer it stated that the auto rotated 4 tyres only and the manual included the spare, what i should have said is the spare is optional when rotating tyres, but should be included in manual vehicles.

Also differant vehicle manuals probably have differant rules with rotating.

Differant rules depending on who you talk too, one thing i do know,

COOPERS ARE CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Follow Up By: robak (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:30

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:30
What if you have a Constant 4wd vehicle in manual, and get a flat on the rear tyre?
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Follow Up By: Redback - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:34

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:34
Faint, cry cause ya don't know what to do?

Baz.
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Follow Up By: Chaz - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 13:39

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 13:39
Redback,
I agree with you.
Most 4WD tyres arn't uni-directional anyway.
I rotate mine using all 5 with the auto and stick with the 4psi rule. I managed 57,000ks from the origonal D693's and now have done 35,000 on a set of D694's and probably less than half worn. Tyre ware has been excellent.
Don't know what all the fuss is about.
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Follow Up By: Member - Brian H (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 16:50

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 16:50
Not sure why you say COOPERS ARE CRAP........... I have Cooper ATR's and I find them great and I rotate mine at 5000 klms at most 10000 including the spare.

I have now done over 40000 klms and still have heaps of tread, i'm expecting to get around 80000 plus. I'm happy if that be the case.

What tyre I get next most likely Coopers but time will tell on that one.

Brian

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Follow Up By: Member - Bucky (VIC) - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 18:43

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 18:43
Hey Redback

Brian H has the right Idea,

I too, rotate my Cooper ATR's, from new, every 5000 km and have been up in the Desert twice now,, they keep hanging in there, but I do a criss-cross rotation,@ every 5,000 km from new, and front to back on every 10,000 km

So far have done 70,000 km, and have heaps of tread left on them ( Not even 1/2 worn. )
Never had a puncture,

Its true they are a bit rough and they " tramline ", but I can put up with that, if I get that kind of service out of them
They are as tough as nails, and the Gibber dosent seem to knock them about too much,,

its all about pressures, and horses for courses

Like to see you have a change of heart, if not go for the Goodyear MTR's, just ask member " Roachie ", I'm sure he will go into detail about his run with all sorts of tyres ( sorry Bill, just dobbed you in )

Cheers Mate
Bucky
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Follow Up By: Redback - Friday, Dec 15, 2006 at 09:33

Friday, Dec 15, 2006 at 09:33
No offence guys but ATRs wouldn't cut it where i go and for what i use the 4b for, i have STTs on the 4b for touring and weekend fun and ATRs wouldn't be practical.

Also as for pressures i do the right thing and have at 40 to 44 when loaded and the trailer on for tar roads, and drop them to 26 to 30 depending on how the car handles (ie) (too low a pressure) for gravel roads.

I'm going to try Mickey Thomsons next.

Baz.

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Reply By: Member - Jezza (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 08:02

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 08:02
The good oil from Bridgestone....

Site Link

Cheers,
Jezza

AnswerID: 210296

Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:36

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:36
Yeah that's the one I use. Rotation every 5-6000kms.
I follow the 4psi rule on tyre pressures in conjunction
with the vehicle tyre chart on the inside door.
cheers
T.R.
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Reply By: Member - Barry M (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 09:08

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 09:08
Hmmm, seems as many answers as questions on this rotation issue. While I
usually just front to back (same side) on my front wd cars in an effort to wear all 4 out round the same time & seems to work if done about every 10k. On the 4wd I
just dont seem to keep track but I try to keep tyres paired in tread wear, but
front isnt much of an issue with free hubs. Some may argue that a good tyre paired with a bald one may stress drive trains in 4wd but what are diffs for? I
wouldnt run like that, but not sure of long term effects.....oldbaz.
AnswerID: 210302

Reply By: gottabjoaken - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:04

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:04
Rotating Tyres - my opinion. (FWIW)

The reason for rotating tyres is to even out uneven wear. That can be uneven across the tread, or more wear on one axle as compared to the other.

If my suspension / alignment causes uneven wear across the tread by rotating tyres regularly (5000- 8000 km !!!) you actually mask the fact that uneven wear is happening. Then you wear out all tyres faster than you ought to, to the benefit of the tyre company.

I prefer to see that a problem exists, and fix it before I loose too much rubber.

The cross rotation diagrams do not address the (possibly urban legend with current tyres) matter of reversing the rotation. The diagrams do not say if the tyre is to be changed so the inside goes to the outside or reversed in rotation. I have not met any fitter who can document a view on that, and with lettered sidewalls the question is acedemic - you always reverse the rotation.

In my opinion, I prefer to replace two tyres at a time rather than four, so that the wear on my wallet is reduced.

Therefore I always replace the front tyres when they require it, and put new tyres on the front.

Then when the rears require replacing I put the new on the front and the front part worn on the rear.

The spare goes into the mix (if it hasn't already through punctures) according to its tread level. - If new, then I avoid buying two new, and keep the best worn as a spare, if worn then it probably stays in the boot.

Anyway, when I am asked if I want the tyres rotated I think of the likelihood that afterwards I won't be able to undo the wheel nuts when I know I can at the moment, and I think of buying four tyres at a time, and I say "No thanks"

Ken

AnswerID: 210309

Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 11:00

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 11:00
Interesting points Ken. On the Bridgestone rotation charts, the front-wheel-drive diagram
moves the front wheels to the back on the same side, therefore keeping the rotation the same, but the original back wheels move to the front crossing to a reverse rotation position.
I must ask Bridgestone for the rationale behind this next time I'm at their service centre.
Currently I'm rotating my tyres diagonally, but I wonder if a straight back to front swop would
be better, in the sense of keeping the rotation direction constant and monitoring wear as you do. Food for thought.
cheers
T.R.
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Follow Up By: kev.h - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 17:34

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 17:34
T-Ribby
Asked the same question and was told "front wheel drives have strange wear pattens" so this way any tyre only ends up in the same position on the car after four rotations
Kev
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Reply By: Gerhardp1 - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:41

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 10:41
I rotated the 5 tyres on the Auto Jack after about 10,000k, which means some of them are rotating in the opposite direction. The spare went to the left front, as it had 0 ks travelled.

Haven't noticed any problems or difference in driving.

The perceived problem of different diameter tyres at each corner is a non-issue, since the only effect this has is to change the rotation speed of the particular axle. The axles rotate at different speeds even when tyres are identical, except when travelling dead ahead. As soon as you turn a corner, the diffs come into play and adjust for the different distance travelled by each tyre.

I wouldn't put a 31" tyre with 33" tyres on the same vehicle, except in an emergency, but one new tyre with 3 part worn tyres won't be a problem. I think it's best to keep the driven tyres as equal as possible.
AnswerID: 210312

Follow Up By: Member -Signman - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 14:28

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 14:28
I think it best to keep the STEERING (ie- front) tyres as equal as possible..
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Reply By: cowpat - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 15:11

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 15:11
Ha, well...now we're talking rotating tyres: I've a part-time 4wd (LC105) and rotate tyres every approx 5,000:

Look at front tyres and compare to spares.

If the spares are better then the one slung under the vehicle (which was Front Left previously) goes to Rear Right, and other spare (sometimes on roof rack, and always was Front Right) goes to Rear Left; and the Front Left goes under the vehicle and the Front Right goes on the roof rack or is left at home.

If the current front tyres are better they go diagonally across to the rear and the spares stay where they are.

Then always Rear Left to Front Left, Rear Right to Front Right.

My aim is to keep the best two on the rear, next-best two on the front.

Apparently in slippery conditions the average driver is better able to control understeer rather than oversteer and therefore it is better to put the tyres with more tread on the rear. Keep in mind that oversteer is more likely to result in a rollover, especially for a raised 4wd.
AnswerID: 210331

Follow Up By: T-Ribby - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 16:39

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 16:39
I never thought of that and yet I should've having once owned and operated a Series II landy on muddy riverbeds et all. The beggar used to oversteer something awful and I can remember travelling sideways like a crab for several hundred metres (well yards in them days). I prefer oversteer offroad because there is a degree of control, and understeer on the seal because you can ease off and brake gently. In black ice, it doesn't matter what you do because the vehicle will continue on its original trajectory. Horses for courses.
cheers
T.R.
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Reply By: Kiwi Kia - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 19:00

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 19:00
Lots of theorys and quotes from manufacturers etc BUT...

Is the manufacturer refering to left-hand drive vehicles?
Does the vehicle have independant suspension or beam axel?
Is the suspension torsion bar?

The above questions are far more important then just looking at a diagram on a web site. The whole idea of rotation is to get an even wear on all tyres so why not just keep an eye on them and rotate the ones that are worn? After all we don't worry where we put the spare when it's needed.
AnswerID: 210354

Reply By: Max - Sydney - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 19:19

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 19:19
A good rule - read the manual for the vehicle and do what the mob who made it suggest.

As for masking excessive wear with five wheel rotation. Using the manual's 5 wheel rotate option for my 80 series manual L/c with constant 4WD, I have had 75000 km (Grandtreks), 95,000 km (BFG A/ts) and my third set of five BFGs tyres is up to 90,000 km now with a lot of wear left. ie I will get at least 80,000 km per tyre. I rotate every 10,000 km and balance every 20,000 km.

The biggest advantage of 5 wheel rotate is that you can choose to change brand or type and not be left with a couple of "odd bods", as happened on my '88 Jackaroo. But, bo**dy hell, have I had to argue with salesmen for tyre shops, who predict the world will fall in. (I have given up askingbthem to put the right pressures in tyres - I go around the corner and let them down to the pressure from the 4 psi rule.

Every sod is an expert, and I have been forced to find out by trial and error.

Max
AnswerID: 210361

Follow Up By: navaraman - Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 22:42

Thursday, Dec 14, 2006 at 22:42
I agree about changing all five (or six) tyres at the same time.

Patrolman Pat
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Reply By: Redback - Friday, Dec 15, 2006 at 09:45

Friday, Dec 15, 2006 at 09:45
I have my Coopers rotated as per Cooper warrenty, so give them a call for the correct way to rotate Coopers.

Same for other brands, call the manufacturer or supplier for there method.

That's what i did, then there's no confusion when it comes to warrenty issues.

This is my 3rd set of Coopers due to chipping and tread block seperation all replaced under warreny no questions asked because i did what they wanted in reguards to pressures, and regular rotation and care of their product.

First set lasted 6000ks STs, second set 25,000ks ST/Cs currently have 15,000ks on my current set of STTs.

Oh did i mention that COOPERS ARE CRAP!!!!!

Baz.
AnswerID: 210453

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