bushranger tow hooks

Submitted: Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 22:04
ThreadID: 40556 Views:3567 Replies:3 FollowUps:7
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Howdy,
i have a couple of those bushranger tow hooks on the front and back of my single cab hilux. just wondering if these are a suitable recovery point for snatch strapping etc or are they too weak. on the packet it reckons they have a 4.5t load limit.

cheers!
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Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 22:14

Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 22:14
The hooks themselves should be okay, strength-wise.

However, a couple of other issues need to be considered:

1). What are they bolted to? and what sort of bolts are used? They need to be High Tensile bolts and must be attached to a solid section of chassis. I have seen such hooks attached to the flat section of a aluminium bullbar......not a good scenario!!!!

2). Virtually all vehicles (IMHO), but especially HiLuxes, should have double hooks; one on each chassis rail. Why? Well, Hiluxs are renowned for having easily twisted ladder chassis. So, if you have one hook at each end and snatch using it, assuming it's attached to the chassis rail on one side, there is a better than even chance that you will distort the chassis. The answer is to have 2 hooks at each end and use an equalisation strap of a minimum of 3 meters length, to spread the load equally on the 2 chassis rails.
AnswerID: 211602

Follow Up By: 000dylan000 - Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 22:25

Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 22:25
thanks for the input

the rear one is bolted to a steal bullbar approx 3-4 inches from where the bullbar bolts to the chassis and the front one is bolted to a piece of steel plate about 4-5mm thick that is attached to the chassis (cant remember if it is welded or bolted and is also the attachment point fot the front bullbar). they are both bolted on using the bolts that came with the hooks.

i was actually in BCF tonight and was looking at getting another two hooks and an equalizer strap so that i had two points on each end.

i will head down the shed now with a beer and have a closer look at exactly where each one is bolted and let ya know

would still appreciate more input from others in the mean time :)

Thanks roachie!!
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FollowupID: 471738

Follow Up By: Outnabout David (SA) - Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 10:33

Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 10:33
Dylan,

I would be a bit concerned if you used the bolts that came with the hooks unless they have change what they supply. The Hilux would be a metric fine thread and the bolts that usually come with them are unf which is close and will partially screw up but then will strip without you knowing. Unless of course it is a complete staright thru fitting and you are using the matching nut as well.
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FollowupID: 471803

Follow Up By: Dodgin & Weavin - Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 09:29

Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 09:29
G'day Roachie

I've got two front recovery hooks bolted to the Bullbar (Steel) through the vertical plates near where the bullbar is bolted to the chassis. The standard place they tend to put one when the vehicle first comes fom the dealer. Its a Hilux. Every time I read one of these treads suggesting I should bolt recovery hooks directly to the chassis rather than the Bullbar I think to myself "good idea - that makes sense". I go outside and stare at the front of the Hilux for a few minutes and get completely confused because I can't see how I can do this because everything seems to be in the way. I then give up and put it in the too hard basket until I read the next tread on the same topic. I then repeat the entire process. Thought I'd try something different this time as my "too hard basket" approach, whilst being the easiest approach, doesn't seem to be solving the problem. Am I missing something obvious here? (About the recovery points not the obvious futility of my "too hard basket" approach) Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Dodgin
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FollowupID: 471939

Follow Up By: 000dylan000 - Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 10:26

Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 10:26
Hey david

in both the front and back hooks, they are bolted straight through, using the nuts supplied with the hooks.

i would have liked to bolt them straight to the chassis but im in the same boat as dodgin & weavin...i sit there for about 3 beers and cant, for the life of me, work out where i could bolt them to because there is too much stuff in the way.
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FollowupID: 471948

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 19:09

Saturday, Dec 23, 2006 at 19:09
Dodgin,

Sorry mate, without seeing the vehicle in front of me, I cannot visualise what "bits" are in the way.

It may be a case of having to get some heavy steel plates made up to the right dimensions which can be bolted to the chassis. These would hang down slightly under the chassis and would have other holes through them to enable the hooks to be bolted directly. I think that is the sort of remedy that the Prado and 100 series have had to have done to get recovery points in place.

I have seen the type of set-up that you describe on older style bullbars (not just on Hiluxs) and they alwas make me whince at the thought of what could happen. Where they are bolted to the vertical sections, even though they may be reasonably close to the heavy horizontal bullbar section, they nevertheless provide less than perfect mounting. It is my belief that the more welds and joins between the hook and the chassis, the more potential breaking points there are. In your case you have the weld where the bracket from the chassis attaches to the main bullbar cross member, then there's the weld where the vertical section joins the main cross member, then there's the fact that the hook's bolts rely on the (relatively thin) steel fillet that forms the vertical section. For my mind, there are too many potential breaking points. A slightly better solution would be to bolt the hooks to the flat part of the main cross member, just inside from the vertical uprights. This cuts out a couple of potential trouble spots.

Remember too that bullbars (that aren't made to take a winch), were never designed to have a towing load added to them......they were designed to take a frontal impact from an animal etc.

Hope this helps.....you may need to think outside the square.

Cheers
Roachie
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FollowupID: 471990

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 23:16

Thursday, Dec 21, 2006 at 23:16
Like Roachie said, chassis mounted and HT bolts.
And Equaliser strap is the safest method of attaching a snatch strap - in addition to Roachies comment, you also halve the load on each point, and should a recovery point break away, the second point will help restrain the damage.

Have you got a towbar with a square 50mm hitch? If so, that would be my rear recovery point.

Some people doubt the validity of the 10,000 lb rating on those hooks because they have seen them bend or the tip break. Perhaps this is more likely in the eastern states because they may try to snatch out of mud???? Haven't heard of anyone having these issues locally, but using two points on the front is the way to go.
AnswerID: 211614

Reply By: Member - greg S (QLD) - Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 08:39

Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 08:39
000dylan000,
I just fitted two of those hooks (from supercheap), both rated at 4500kg to the rear of our camper. These are bolted through the chassis (75mmx50mm) and through to the inside of the rear well of the camper. There was a gap between the chassis and the well, but I filled this with a piece of 10mm steel plate(the bolts go through these plates), and there is also a 6mm steel plate on the inside of the well. The bolts used are 12.9(high tensile) 12mm socket head capscrew's, and nyloc nut's to hold it all together. I put two on to equalize the stress to both chassis rails, via an equalizer strap. Hopefully we won't need them, but it is good knowing that they are there in case we need them.

Cheer's and Merry Christmas

Greg
AnswerID: 211633

Follow Up By: Kiwi Kia - Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 09:34

Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 09:34
Given a choice I would use 8.8 bolts.

The higher the tensile rating the more suseptable to brittle fracture.

In other words there needs to be a compromise between soft and hard, if to soft the bolts stretch, bend, twist and give up easily If to hard they snap easy.
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FollowupID: 471794

Follow Up By: Outnabout David (SA) - Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 10:35

Friday, Dec 22, 2006 at 10:35
Socket head screws of that tensile rating are not designed for shock loading. They are used for I torque situations cylinder heads etc. I would be replacing them with 8.8's
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FollowupID: 471804

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