Any experienced Man to Auto people here?

Submitted: Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 10:47
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Hi guys,
I want to drive my car to a repair shop as a manual and then drive back out as an automatic..
Anybody had a similar experience to this with a similar vehicle in Adelaide maybe,,, if not Melbourne???....
Any practical experience would be good to read about as i am not sure where to start...
I may be $$$$ but prob cheaper than buying a new vehicle because i cant stand the lack of torque with the manual anymore......
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Reply By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 11:21

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 11:21
Correct me if i'm wrong, however doesn't a manual normally have more torque than the equivalent auto anyway.......380Nm for manual v's 354Nm for the auto @ 2000rpm.

Andrew
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Follow Up By: johnny - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 12:48

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 12:48
u beat me to it thats what i was going to say

a hell of a lot of work to change from manual to auto
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 14:37

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 14:37
When you stick the slipper in, the motor revs up a little and the torque converter starts to work - this produces more torque to the tail shaft - just like changing back a gear. Many erroneously think that when a motor revs higher it is just "the torque converter slipping." This is just the same as saying "when I change down a gear the gear box slips."

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Follow Up By: Chaz - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 09:01

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 09:01
The torque converter really has the wrong name, it should be called a torque multiplier, but in all reality its main function is to convert power into torque and this multiplies torque in the process.
The reason manuals are generally given more engine torque from the factory is that they have the disadvantage of being driven through a clutch, thus relying on reduction gearing for any increase in torque and low engine torque is detrimental to clutch life.
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Follow Up By: Chucky - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 17:08

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 17:08
I thought a torque converters (stall converters) was just a fluid clutch, virtually just two fans with fluid inbetween. When the rev's got high enough on the flywheel side the fluid had enough force to move the fan on the gearbox side. Thats how the street car boys changed the converters to to 3500rpm etc, by just changing the anglke of the fan blades.

I have always been told that the auto's where only better at applying power more smoothly than the manual, (which makes the cars power more usable in most 4wd applications) but the lack of direct coupling between the auto box and the engine resulted in power loss (and engine braking).
Later model over came the lack of dierct transmission coupling by using a electronic lockup. But these could only come in when the gearbox was up to speed.

Also a auto will always use more fuel than a manual if driven in the same way and the same conditions as a manual. So logically a auto must require more power to perform the same amount of work than a manual.
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Follow Up By: Chaz - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 19:05

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 19:05
Hi Chucky,
Without getting too technical, you are basically right.
Although commonly refered to as a fluid clutch, a fluid coupling would be a more accurate definition. It consists of three elements, an impeller, a stator and a turbine. Technically it multiplies engine torque by changing fluid velocity into power. Practically, this means it provides an infinite number of gear ratios.
The drag racing boys build high stall converters because their engines don’t make torque in the lower rev ranges so they need the converter to flair until they get into the torque band. This comes at the cost of inefficiency at higher speeds, but a lockup system overcomes this. Generally higher stall converters are physically smaller in size and changing the angle of the fins can help, but make it less efficient at higher rpm.
Auto’s do use more power than a manual to drive, partly because of their rotating mass, but once the converter is locked, there isn’t much difference in efficiency. In the case of the 3.0Di Patrol, an auto is thirstier around the city, but possibly more economical on the highway at speeds over 90km/h because the converter should be locked and they have a much higher overdrive ratio than a manual.
With a manual you have the option of fitting a better or heavier duty clutch to help overcome some difficulties, but with an auto, there are many modifications that can improve the drivability and off road performance of your car. I can lock my converter at any speed and in any gear at any time, even reverse. The gearbox changes quickly and crisply every time and being able to shift up or down on a 45 degree slope is a luxury that a manual driver can’t afford.
I’m not saying that autos are better than manuals, but in this case, I can understand why Voxson wants to change over considering the low rpm torque characteristics of the 3.0Di Nissan. I have a Dtronic, 3” straight through exhaust and no EGR system and my car will pull hard from under 1500rpm, but in some off road situations that may not be good enough if it was manual.
Chaz

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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 20:51

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 20:51
Fluid clutches are a product of the 30s. Since then torque converters have ruled the roost. The stator changes the direction of the fluid such that more torque is transmitted to the turbine - as the turbine reaches the speed of the impeller the stator ceases to be stationary and the three elements rotate at the same speed producing a nearly direct drive. The converter lockup available on the later autos is just a normal type clutch - it can be built lighter because it does not have to suffer clutch slippage during start off.

"Also a auto will always use more fuel than a manual" You can make a manual use more fuel - just change down a gear every time you accelerate. Higher engine speeds mean more power developed (under heavy throttle application) and more power means more fuel consumed. I reckon that if you changed down every time that an auto would produce more torque you would be producing higher engine speeds in a manual and you would use more fuel in a manual than an auto - it is only the young and stupid that drive manuals that way and they are renown to produce higher fuel consumption figures than we the older generations.

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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 13:14

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 13:14
Was hoping to have mine done by now, but Xmas and Melb Cup trip got in the way.

parts to buy from Wrecker are around $2200 for the lot.

Rodney from Wholesale Automatics quoted me $6000 ish to convert the GU, thats with a fully reconditioned GQ Auto, with the trick valve body, and gauge etc... which is $4000 alone.

Would have liked the 4.8 auto, but nobody in the country has worked them out, or managed to get em working behind anything, Brunswick tried, but refuse to try now, and Sandy at Aus4wd also had a go...
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Follow Up By: Member - John - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 13:24

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 13:24
Truckster, is that auto to go behind your 4.2 TD? May have to have a chat to you if it is? John
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 15:17

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 15:17
Yup, thats the one. its a straight bolt up.. All TD42's have the same bolt pattern from 88.....
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Reply By: Member - Pesty (SA) - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 15:22

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 15:22
Havent you got a 3L ???
If you have, I wouldnt even think about it, go buy a secondhand one already done , it will be a major headace to get all the elerctronics to even go close to working, I would think.

Cheers Pesty
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Reply By: Member - Captain (WA) - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:49

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:49
Hi Voson,

I don't think it would be possible/practical to convert a 3.0TD manual to an auto. Too many black box issues to deal with. Would be far cheaper to sell and buy what you want. A converted 3.0TD would also lose resale so long term would be far behind $$$.

If the low down torgue is the main issue, I would 1) fit a Dtronic 2)fit a bigger exhaust and 3)block off the EGR. All these will add significantly to bottom end power and be far far cheaper than any auto convert.

Anyway, just my thoughts.

Cheers

Captain
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Follow Up By: Leroy - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 17:25

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 17:25
He had a dtronic and pulled it off and sold it! Can't for the life work out why. But I'd do the above as well. I have been thinking the exhaust for a while and recently decided to try blocking the egr valve. I think this is my next mod, not because I need the torque/pwr more for the curiosity.

Leroy
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Reply By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:56

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:56
The cheapest and best way is to buy a wreck/swap the bits, sell the parts...
The easiest way is to buy from auction then sell yours private at a reduced price...
Andrew
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Reply By: V8Diesel - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:57

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 16:57
Having just looked into this very exercise myself, I was warned in the strongest possible terms by acknowledged experts that when high tech electronics are concerned, you will rue the day you started. Expense and misery will follow. Remember, with you having the 3.0, I'd just about guarantee it's a different kettle of fish to 'old school' conversions.

Even with stamp duty factored in, the figures just won't add up when factory auto's are plentiful on the secondhand market. When it does come time to sell, a mongrel will be a bugger to shift too. I certainly wouldn't touch it anyway.

Take the goodies off yours, sell it, and buy an auto IMHO.
AnswerID: 211913

Reply By: 4wdNewbie - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 23:20

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 23:20
Can I enquire as to why you are making the swap? I dont think I could ever do a manual to auto swap... Just love drivin stick too much... Are there any 4wding benefits to an auto over a manual? I see there is a reduction in torque so thats no good :( ...

Cheers,
Anand.
AnswerID: 211942

Follow Up By: Wetty - Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 23:31

Sunday, Dec 24, 2006 at 23:31
drive on sand and you will know how much the auto comes into it's own!
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Follow Up By: Chaz - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 08:59

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 08:59
An auto will out perform a manual in all off road situations except engine braking, but that can easily be improved with a manual lockup converter and lower transfer gears.
Also, in the patrol a manual is doing 2600rpm@100km/h and an auto is just over 2000rpm at the same speed. In the 3.0Di autos work much better at lower speeds because the converter puts you straight into the engines maximum torque band.
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Follow Up By: 4wdNewbie - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 19:30

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 19:30
Well there ya go, learn somethin new everyday... Still prefer a manual tho :P
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Reply By: Chaz - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 08:58

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 08:58
Hi Voxson,
I think replacing the vehicle would be the best (and possibly cheapest) option, particularly if you’re going to stick with a 3.0Di, but I have done manual to auto conversions before and there are other options worth considering. Swapping all the parts over from another vehicle would be the easiest, but as previously mentioned the electrics could be difficult. Another option is to use a different transmission other than Nissans RE4R03A. I have use a TH700R4 from an early VN Commodore or import one from a pre 89 Camaro or Corvette from the US, as I did some time ago. These transmissions didn’t use any electronics and are fairly cheap to buy, but a rebuild and adaptor kit could still cost a few thousand $$$. Marks Adaptors make the transfer case adaptors and bell housing adaptor to go from Nissan to Chev and you could use an aftermarket B&M shifter for “Tiptronic” shifting. I used a Fairbanks shift kit and additional clutches in the packs to improve its strength and durability and the ratio’s are perfect for a 4x4 because they have a lower first and a very tall overdrive. I think if my transmission eventually fails, I’ll go this way again because the TH700 was a much better package and cheaper to repair.
Another option would be to fit a GQ box and convert it to full manual, but you’ll need to change the valve body to do this and fit some switches and controls to manage the converter lockup, but you'll have to change gears manually.

Chaz
AnswerID: 211966

Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 09:57

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 09:57
Chaz, Mark's adaptors do not have an adaptor to go from a Nissan engine to a Chev/Holden transmission only an adaptor to go from a Chev/Holden engine to Nissan transmission.
Regards Andrew.
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Follow Up By: Chaz - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 10:31

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 10:31
Hi Andrew,
I'm sorry, I thought they did.
I thought they had one to bolt a TH700 up to an RB30, although I'm not sure if that will fit a ZD30. Do you know if ZD30 and TB/TD42's use the same bell housing patern? It shouldn't be too hard to make one if they don't, but I assumed they would because the TB42's did come out with the same auto trans as ZD30's.
I just remembered that RD28/RB30 used different manual transmissions, but similar Jatco RE4R01A auto transmissions.
I'll stand corrected.
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Follow Up By: Chaz - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 12:04

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 12:04
Andrew,
The Castlemaine Rod Shop (http://www.rodshop.com.au/transmissions.htm) has an adaptor to suit GM Turbo & P/G Trans to Nissan 3 Litre P/N: AP 65, but I would assume that’s for the RB30.
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Reply By: Voxson (Adelaide) - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 16:44

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 16:44
Thank you for all the replies.... I have read them all and taken in everything...
For the guys that couldnt understand why i would want to change because the torque figures are better with the manual,,,,,,,,,,,,,, here is a little story and the only time i find my 4x4 a problem but it is a problem i guarantee you....

Start driving up a steep dirt hill ,,,, 40degrees or so,,, then throw in some rocks which stick out far enough to damage your driveline components where you have to slowly walk the car over them and then the 3litre manual and auto are absolutely millions of miles apart..
A manual 4.2 is even better...

Yeah,, i know what you guys are saying,,,,"great time to find out now".... Thats life... I got caught up in all the wanky performance figures..
AnswerID: 211989

Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 22:21

Monday, Dec 25, 2006 at 22:21
Thanks voxson for the info.....i actually didn't know the real difference in them other than the stated figures.

BTW, stupid question, would the 4.2 auto be even better still given your statements......or am i missing something obvious :-)

Have a good one,

Andrew
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Follow Up By: Voxson (Adelaide) - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 21:14

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 21:14
Yes... "if" the 4.2 came in an auto it would be the best weapon built yet by Nissan... thats where Toyota has it over Nissan... an auto behind a high torque motor is great...
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Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 21:25

Tuesday, Dec 26, 2006 at 21:25
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