61 series diesel electrics
Submitted: Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 01:30
ThreadID:
40878
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2580
Replies:
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brummie pete
Hi all ,i dont post on this site as i find i dont really need too as the archives are brilliant and the knowledge of the people on here is fantatstic,but however i feel i must now as i do have a slight problem with my 1989 cruiser diesel .
The problem seems to be geeting worse and is always first thing in the morning when i turn the ignition on ,i used to be able to wait for the first clunk sound from what sounds like the glow plug relay and then start the engine up and the oil pressure would go up and then a more distinct clunk would be heard and my charge rate would go up to 13.8 volts according to the guage .
But recently she will clunk as usual and i would fire her up and she would cut out [not always though ]especially if the elctrics seem loaded up ie radio on ,heater on but although the whole starting proceedure hasnt changed much its the secondary clunk for the voltage that seems to be taking a lot longer ,sometimes as long as driving a couple of ks down the road.
Finally the problem doesnt seem to be there when the vehicle is warm and both clunks are quick and almost straight after one another .
Any help will be appreciated and thankyou .brum
Reply By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 01:56
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 01:56
it is the low pressure oil cutoff hich is a feature on the 2h motor to stop them running in reverse. It kicks in after 5-10 seconds if there is not enough oil pressure. this could be the sensor or the oil pressure but is pretty normal the old double start for a 2h
AnswerID:
213338
Follow Up By: brummie pete - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 02:32
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 02:32
Thanks Davoe ,ill take a look at the sensor tomorrow .
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Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 05:30
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 05:30
Either rev it a bit higher when you start it or change the oil ! I own one myself.
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473652
Reply By: donk - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 10:20
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 10:20
Is it a HJ60 (2H N/A) or a HJ61 (12HT Turbo) ??????
Regard Don
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: brummie pete - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 11:02
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 11:02
it is a hj 60
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Follow Up By: brummie pete - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 11:03
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 11:03
sorry i havent woke up yet ,its a 2H thanks don
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Reply By: 666toy - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 12:23
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 12:23
Check oil pressure with a external guage if this is fine replace sender or possibly your Edic is failing.
You could allso have a electrical fault within the Edic electrical cables but tht is very unlikely.
The pressure switches are known to fail fairly often on the old 2h.
If your pressure is down a bit you may have to look into getting new bearings on your crank or your oil pump is starting to fail.
If pressure is down a bit for the short term you can use a hevy grade oil to keep things in order for a while or use MORYS oil stabiliser with a heavy dose with your regular oil....hope this helps .........666TOY
AnswerID:
213401
Reply By: Mr Fawlty - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 15:18
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 15:18
Hmmmmmmmmmmm I'm in idiot mode... I thought this post was about Diesel electric vehicles, not electrics on diesel engines....
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213443
Reply By: pbat - Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 18:41
Friday, Jan 05, 2007 at 18:41
Had similar problems with my old HJ60. Turned out to be bad earths on the relays. They are very voltage sensitive. A small jumper earth solved the problem
AnswerID:
213489
Follow Up By: brummie pete - Friday, Jan 19, 2007 at 19:56
Friday, Jan 19, 2007 at 19:56
could you please explain a small jumper lead thanks pbat .
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476898
Follow Up By: pbat - Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 11:03
Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 11:03
Put an additional earth lead from the battery negative direct to the body near the battery carrier. Was easier than chasing the chassis to body earth strap which may have deteriorated over the years. Pbat
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Follow Up By: brummie pete - Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 14:14
Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 14:14
thanks pbat ,ill give it a go and see what happens .
Have just got 3 prices for a new alternator as i am preparing my self for the possibility it could be that .Ebay $399 ,Coventrys $1000 and Toyota surprisingly where $780 .
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Reply By: brummie pete - Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 23:32
Wednesday, Jan 17, 2007 at 23:32
thanks all for your help ,but i thought i would close the thread as i have solved the problem.
The actual problem ended up getting worse and the alternator was getting no charge at times for anything up to 6ks when starting from cold and when stoping at lights the charge light would come on along with 2
orange lights ,they would go away once the engine revved up but would return sporadically at traffic lights etc .
I ended up taking the regulator out of the alternator and they were in good order ,this lead me to take a good hard look at the manuel and see what lights were affected by which relay ,the offending relay was found to be the Ignition relay under the dash behind the fuse box so 24 bucks later and the problem hasnt reapeared for 4 days now . thanks all
AnswerID:
216051
Follow Up By: brummie pete - Friday, Jan 19, 2007 at 19:53
Friday, Jan 19, 2007 at 19:53
well i thought i had really cracked it but unfortunately after 4 or five days the problem has now reappered and i am at a loss to what it could be now .
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Reply By: Tim HJ61 (WA) - Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 22:06
Saturday, Jan 20, 2007 at 22:06
Brum,
buggaar it's appeared again.
Work it through one thing at a time. What is it not????
And what is the problem? Is it the cutting out, or the lack of charge? maybe there are two problems....
It is not the relay you've just replaced.
Why is it not the regulator?
Why is it not the alternator?
Maybe you can get the brushes replaced in the alternator, don't get a new one until you've had the old one checked out.
My 12HT is wired differently to the 2H, but I've heard plenty of people talk about the oil pressure switch as Davoe pointed out.
One auto sparky suggested I run an extra cable straight from the alternator to the battery +ve terminal as sometimes the cable deteriotes at any of it's connections. No need to remove the original, just add an extra.
My alternator doesn't clunk in - ie I don't hear any relays clicking in, it just slowly rises from 24 to 28v - it's a
grey import with a NATO pack that means it's a 24v unit.
Hope this helps
Tim
AnswerID:
216751
Follow Up By: brummie pete - Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 00:31
Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 00:31
hi tim thanks for yor reply ,i am at the moment basically clutching at straws .
Today i have given the vehicle an oil change and new filter ,and so far the problem hasnt occured ie charge light ,air filter light and warning light on the drain point for the water trap coming on .
She was due for another oil change in a 1000ks anyway as i do it every five thousand ,but last time i used a different make of filter and am now wondering if this somehow affected the oil switch in some way and thus the other problems followes on ,but i cant work out if it was that why the engine wouldnt cut out .
In regards to the alternator the brushes were replaced not long ago and the vehicle was purchased of a good friend of
mine who is in the trucking trade on the maintenance side of things and he is meticulous at everything he does and the engine and alternator etc where rebuilt only 80000 ks ago ,so really i am only summizing after my conversations with him over the last few days and knowing the vehicles history with all the receipts for work done i am presuming things are all good but i suppose if the problem reacurs it will more than likely have to go in to an auto electrician .
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Reply By: Sam from Weipa Auto Electrics - Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 11:15
Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 11:15
I would put money on the alternator been cactus go see you're local auto-sparky.
AnswerID:
216819
Follow Up By: brummie pete - Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 18:10
Sunday, Jan 21, 2007 at 18:10
Thanks sam ,i am coming to that conclusion too .
what actually happens now is the charge light ,change filter light ,empty water trap light will come on at traffic lights [sporadically]and the guage starts to drop from 13.8 down to 12.6 volts but once pulling away the 3 lights go out and the guage starts to creep back up again .
FollowupID:
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