80 Series A/C Shut Down
Submitted: Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 15:00
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41579
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Matt(WA)
Hi All,
I have a bit of a drama with my 80. Its a 4.2 Diesel N/A,, 5speed. Just returned to
perth from
melbourne and
sydney. We were pretty loaded up and when it was hot the car temp gauge would move up a little to be inline with the top of the petrol warning light for the sub tank. So bugger all. But when the car warmed up the ac stopped working. As soon as I changed back to third or even fourth and bought the rev's up the temp started to come back down again. Thought the A/c would take a while to restart if you didnt turn it off and back on again. Any idea's? I think there must be some kind of thermal cutout in the ac system. Also maybe I am up for a new viscous clutch for the fan? Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Matt
Reply By: Member - John L G - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 15:05
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 15:05
Hi Matt
The 75 series with the same engine, 1HZ, displays the same characteristics.
If the temp gauge starts to climb the A/C shuts down or ceases to work properly.
Have no idea why, but doesn't seem to be any real problem as when the engine temp comes back to normal, the cold air starts to flow again.
AnswerID:
217485
Reply By: Member -Dodger - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:19
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:19
Mate this is both common in Tojo and Nissan's so do not worry needlessly just drive easier.
AnswerID:
217515
Reply By: luch - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:36
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:36
Matt, it is a built in fault they have as protection
The A/C will cut out if you are driving too fast 125 km/h (or over 3000 rpm)
When the engine temp is over half it will also cut out.
AnswerID:
217520
Follow Up By: Sam from Weipa Auto Electrics - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:21
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:21
a/c will ONLY cut of if temp goes up I think at 125 3000rpm that you're might just be getting hot.
FollowupID:
478101
Reply By: Member- Rox (WA) - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:52
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 17:52
Mine has never had this problem. Could it be the water Pump Or thermostat on the way out.
Mine only gets to 1/4 unless heavy (soft) beach sand.
AnswerID:
217531
Reply By: Max - Sydney - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 18:07
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 18:07
Matt
I have had the same model for 10 years now, and under no circumstances can I get the temperature needle to move upward. That includes 45 degrees plus heat pulling a van at the speed limit.
With your symptoms, I'd be getting someone to at least pressure flush the cooling system, replace the thermostat and
test the viscous clutch (which despite what the
Gregory's service manual says can be refilled with silicone) and see if that helps. I'd be prepared to be told that the radiator core is stuffed though - these beasts are getting pretty long in the tooth now and with all the radiator additives in the world eventually the radiator has to go.
But the back flush etc is a good start.
Keep us informed what happens
Max
AnswerID:
217533
Reply By: thomasando - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 19:04
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 19:04
You have a low diesel warning light on your sub tank? What model of 80 do you have? I have a standard and I don't have it, but think it would be really worthwhile!
AnswerID:
217550
Reply By: obee - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:16
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:16
First thing to
check is the tension on the fan belt.
The temp will fall with higher revs cos the water pump is working harder at revs.
Owen
AnswerID:
217571
Reply By: Middle Jeff - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:42
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:42
Hi Matt
If the temp is going up at cruising revs and then down again if you increase the revs, then it is time to put new silicon oil in the fan.
Go to Toyota get three tubes of the stuff open the clutch, drain the old, fill to overflow then seal it up. ( make sure it has no bubbles ).
An easy Saturday job.
Have fun
Craig
AnswerID:
217578
Follow Up By: gen3rules - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:50
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 20:50
there is a high temp cutout in the thermostat even new, run in cruisers ,with a load and ac on, going fast on a 40 degree day will experience this problem. solution is to slow down. a cooling system service is also a good idea. be careful if you bypass the switch have seen a few cooked 1hzs due to bypassing this switch, and a lead foot on a hot day.
FollowupID:
478010
Follow Up By: Middle Jeff - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 21:11
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 21:11
Hi gen3rules
Matts problem goes away if he increases revs, this is why I think the clutch needs servicing, so funny enough slowing down will make the temp go up.
It will just be a matter of time before it starts to go up at idle, once they start to go, they go downhill quickly.
Have fun
Craig
FollowupID:
478017
Reply By: Big Woody - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 21:05
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 21:05
Hi Matt,
I had exactly this problem a short time ago in my 80 series 1HZ Diesel with aftermarket turbo.
My temp always sits about a needle thickness below half on the guage and never moves.
On a trip to
Rockhampton and back with a tandem car trailer and a car on it my a/c cut out and 5 minutes later it started again. It took some time to realise that it was related to my temp guage fluctuating. Whenever it hit halfway on the guage which is only about 2mm higher than where it normally sits, the a/c would cut out.
As mentioned above
mine turned out to be the viscous fan hub. It started like this and only played up intermittently but using a process of elimination I isolated it to the viscous hub.
I fitted an aftermarket hub from Rawlinson's Toyota Specialist for $110.00 and have done some very heavy towing in hot weather since and have had no more problems. And that includes long highway runs in hilly country where the turbo has really been working hard. All of these
miles I have had the A/C turned on and it has never cut out since. I was not keen on drilling holes in the original hub and filling it with more silicone and a genuine toyota hub was $185.00.
I hope this helps mate.
Cheers,
Brett
AnswerID:
217583
Follow Up By: Matt(WA) - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:44
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:44
Hi Brett
Do you have any contact details for Rawlinson's?
Cheers Matt
FollowupID:
478124
Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:52
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:52
you dont have to drill holes in it lust take it apart (about 7 screws with an impact driver) My investigation had Gen toyota hubs at alot more than $185
FollowupID:
478128
Follow Up By: Big Woody - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 19:40
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 19:40
Hi Matt,
Sorry I had a moment with my brain and misquoted the name of the supplier. They are called Rawnsley Auto's and they are a local spare parts supplier specialising in Toyota's here in
Bundaberg.
They are a long way from you in W.A. though but if you are interested their phone number is (07) 4151 6011
Generally I have found their prices to be equal to or better than any other source for spare parts including ebay by the time you add postage to your purchase.
Cheers mate,
Brett
FollowupID:
478234
Reply By: Diver1 - Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 22:22
Wednesday, Jan 24, 2007 at 22:22
We never had this prob but never really had it working until after the radiator was replaced with a bigger beauty.....still never have that prob....i would say its just a safety thingy.....
Laura
AnswerID:
217605
Reply By: Matt(WA) - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:04
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:04
Thanks for the reply's everyone. I was only doing 95-100 in fifth or fourth so I wasnt exactly flying, I also had the same problem when towing my van. I might try a new viscous clutch. The temp dosent normally move at all during normal driving, just over 40degc days when heavily loaded or when towing the van. I will try the new clutch and juve the radiator a flush too. The radiator looks pretty good(car is a 97 with 150K) so I just go with the process of elimination. Cheers
Matt
AnswerID:
217666
Follow Up By: Robnicko - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:22
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 09:22
Matt,
At 95-100 kmh the viscous couplled fan doesn't do much, air ram is what cools the engine. Viscous hubbed fans are of benefit at idle and speeds up to about 30-40kmh where ram air then has more of a cooling effect. I would firstly drain the coolant, put genuine Toyota (the red stuff) coolant in it, 50/50 mix with the heater control turned to HOT. It sounds to me like you may have a air-lock in the cooling system and changing the coolant will help. I have a 95 model 80 with 4.5 lpg and the guage never moves above just under half once warm. Even when towing on hot days. And with the Viscous hub the best way to tell if its working properly is on a hot day when idling and then taking off you will hear the fan blowing heaps but as you move away it will subside. If the car is stationary and you just increase the revs it should not disengage at all and blow like crazy. Also when you turn the car off with the hub engaged the fan should stop instantly with the engine.
Rob
FollowupID:
478102
Follow Up By: Member - Davoe (Nullagine) - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:14
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 11:14
Robnicko. Thats what I used to think but it is incorrect the fan is crucial to cooling at all speeds. My 80 ran hot at speed during the test run and was eventually fixed by siliconing the fan. I first rplaced the radiator but even with a brand new rad it ran hot at highway speed
FollowupID:
478118
Follow Up By: Big Woody - Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 19:35
Thursday, Jan 25, 2007 at 19:35
Hi robnicko,
I agree with Dave mate,
The first signs my 80 series showed when the viscous hub was playing up were at highway speeds.
It took a while to identify it as the problem but eventually the way I found it was to get the temp up to just above half when the A/C cut out and I knew the viscous fan should be locked up. Then I pulled over and turned the engine off while standing outside the car with the bonnet up. From here I could see that the after the engine had shut down, the fan just kept free spinning for about 10 or 15 seconds.
It does not do this with the new fan hub.
Brett
FollowupID:
478231