100 Series Suspension Lift Components

Submitted: Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 11:41
ThreadID: 41884 Views:2831 Replies:4 FollowUps:2
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After reading the article and doing some enquiries, I was wondering what is really needed for a 2 inch lift, live front axle by the way. Is it just springs and shocks, or is it springs shocks caster correctors new tire rods a new return to center schocky looking thing and a steering dampner?
Can I please have some advice from someone who has done it and how the change in ride and handling is. I understand about loads etc, I am more looking for clearance than anything else.
Thanks in advance
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Reply By: Robnicko - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 12:03

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 12:03
Springs, shocks and Castor Correction (which will enhance return to centre after full lock).
Go to ARB, OLD MAN EMU 850 front spring with N71 shock 863 rearwith N74E shock. Dont waste time with anything else. You will be happy.

Proper setup doesn't need the spring loaded rtc steering damper. I think they are only needed if you have massive tyres and are really doing extremely hard off road work.

They sey if you have a steel bullbar winch combo you can get away with the Castor correction as the weight brings the front end down but if you want to save your tyres and have better handling / feel get it done.
AnswerID: 219195

Follow Up By: Robnicko - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 12:06

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 12:06
Craig,
I should have also pointed out that if you want longevity from your UNI joints in the front drive-shaft and vibration free driving get the castor done. Otherwise it will chew out front uni's. Speaking from experience.

Rob
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FollowupID: 479721

Reply By: Crackles - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 14:19

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 14:19
Craig, upgraded springs alone can give you a 2" body lift. Shocks are normally changed at the same time for better performance, ride, longer wheel travel & are matched to suit the spring rate. The car can be driven like this (I do) without the caster correctors but the handling does suffer a little. I've noticed no abnormal tyre wear or mechanical issues as a result. Offset bushes to correct the castor can cause problems of their own cracking through the narrow side of the bush particually on heavily corrogated roads. Return to centre steering dampners make little if any difference & are mainly fitted cos they look good. (that's why they paint them bright yellow;-)
How the new suspension system handles will depend heaps on what quality setup you buy & how they are matched to the weight you carry. As an example, an OME set up can improve handling, ride etc by around 50% but upgrade to Bilsteins & it may be as much as 100% better.
For future reference your car is actually a 105 series.(solid front axle)
Cheers Craig.....
HZJ105 Vic.
Lovell springs/Koni shocks, standard steering dampner.
AnswerID: 219242

Follow Up By: Craigww2 - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 15:53

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 15:53
Thanks,

Yeh I know its a 105 but everywhere I go it is refered to as a 100 so probably out of habit I call it a 100.
Thanks for your info. Makes me think I will get some good suspension stuff.
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FollowupID: 479795

Reply By: 120scruiser (NSW) - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 20:06

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 20:06
Hi Craig
There are a thousand different setups but the most common on the live axle cruisers that seems to work well is King springs with Koni shocks.
The castor correction bushes make them steer so much better.
We have fitted quite a few sets to both crusiers and patrols in my workshop and you instantly notice the difference.
Cheers
120scruiser
AnswerID: 219332

Reply By: Member - Shane D (QLD) - Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 21:03

Friday, Feb 02, 2007 at 21:03
Hi Craig,
I have a 105 cruiser and I bought terrain taimer springs,shocks and steering dampner.
I'm told the springs are manufactured by kings,shocks are australian made by whoever makes the TJM xjs series shocks and i'm assuming same for the dampner.
I found the front's lifted about 50 -60 mm(I have a steel bbar) now that they have settled.When I first put them on(100 mm+) it was almost undrivable(castor)but the best suggestion given to me was to give it time to settle before spending money correcting it, so I disconneted sway bars and found tracks that had deep washouts so I could get the springs working.
I have now got a 10000lbs winch, soon to get second battery and the front now works good,terrian taimer only have 2 catogories of springs,comfort or heavy duty,If you got xtra's ,get H/D.
The back,
most of the time I have no weight in the back and I found the H/D too hard for some people's comfort when empty,when loaded I found them good, your chioce on which way to go,height is about 75-80 mm higher than standard.
It is a easy job to fit (I did mine in the driveway at home afterwork)and the total cost me $880 with the dampner.
Like I said when I first put them on it drove like a P O S and I rang around steering specialist and all they want too do was charge me between $300-$500 for the castor correction useing their castor correction kits
My advise is if you do the job(whoevers springs upto 50-60mm) let them settle (3000km) before you spent coin on castor,mine handles as good as it can with 235 mud tyres,no evidence of abnormal wear(is early days)
Dunno how big rubber you are using but IMHO no need for a return-to-center or tie rod ends
AnswerID: 219344

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