aerolite hitch lock and chassis
Submitted: Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 13:42
ThreadID:
42936
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4571
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3
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meercat
Hi does anyone know of a hitch lock that can be used on Viscount Aerolites. I have tried the normal ones but as the hitch mechanism is different to the norm, these don't fit. I also tried a trailer cop but this also was useless. The only thing I can think of is to go with a wheel lock.
Now for the second question - yes unfortunately I have one of 'those' aerolites which seems to be associated with chassis problems - cracking. I have tried contacting Hardings in Bayswater - apparently they are experience aerolite fixers but it comes at a price which considering the age of the van (22 years) is worth spending that amount of money on. Can anyone suggest a really good welder/repairer within close proximity to Melb CBD that may be able to assist? There are some minor cracks at present which I would like to have fixed but more importantly, some preventative work done to give the van chassis a bit more strength so I don't panic when taking the van on a corrugated dirt road.
Reply By: disco driver - Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 15:37
Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 15:37
Hi Meercat.
Re Hitch lock.
It may give you a sense of security but, in reality, who would nick a 22 year old Viscount aerolite when there are plenty of newer vans just sitting there waiting for a free tow.
FWIW I too have a Viscount, but
mine is a '82 mod Grand Tourer poptop in top condition, and all I do is lock the door and hope for the best.
Without appearing to be facetious, the cost of repair/ reconstruction may
well exceed the value of the van and then it becomes a decision of ; Do I get it repaired or do I sell it and replace with something better. Only you can answer that.
Any competent engineering business should be able to weld up the cracks to make it safe but perhaps not up to corrugated gravel road standards.
The Aerolite was never really intended for anything more than blacktop use and gravel/corrugations are most likely to add to your woes with the chassis cracking.
If you were to limit use to blacktop and keep a close watch on the cracks you should be able to get a good few more trips before it is really serious.
Good Luck with your decisions
Cheers
Disco
AnswerID:
225442
Follow Up By: meercat - Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 12:51
Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 12:51
Thanks Disco, everything you say is true - who would want to steel this old van but somehow I don't think the insurance company would cover me if the van was stolen and it wasn't in some shape or form secured.
FollowupID:
486526
Reply By: Member - Reiner G (QLD) 4124 - Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 15:39
Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 15:39
If you have the Koeber coupling on the Aero Lite which you should have there is a lock on the park-brake. You pull the parkbrake and push the lock in.....make sure you got the key for it before you do that :-)
Otherwise you can get a lock that looks like a towball. That would fit and it locks into the space where the towball goes and it looks like one.
Reiner
AnswerID:
225443
Follow Up By: meercat - Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 12:19
Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 12:19
Hi there Reiner, thanks for your response. I can definitely say there is no lock on the parkbrake so it mustn't be a Koeber coupling. There is a button which you press but couldn't see any key lock. The only name that I could decipher on the drawbar was Alko - a lot of other writing but appeared to be in german or other european language. I have tried the other solution you mention which is the towball lock (trailer cop) but this doesn't appear to work either...once you release the mechanism on the hitch, it pushes the trailer cop out before I have had a change to wind the trailer cop out. Will give it another go but you almost need 2 people to do it.
FollowupID:
486521
Follow Up By: On Patrol (Aust.) - Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 18:56
Tuesday, Mar 06, 2007 at 18:56
Al-ko is Aloisios Koeber abbreviated.
Use the tow ball lock described earlier in this thread or contact AL-KO for a key lock barrel to fit the coupling. I once saw a coupling with a small hole drilled into the pressed metal at the front of the coupling and a padlock slipped through it. Not the best but it was effective.
FollowupID:
486561
Reply By: Member - Blue (VIC) - Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 16:56
Monday, Mar 05, 2007 at 16:56
I can't help with the lock but it's worth shopping around for the chassis welding... Find the cracks, photograph them with dimensions, get a quote from Hardings then proceed to enquire at a couple of engineering
places. The actual plating and welding isn't the issue for a ticketed welder, it's the time spent preparing the job to minimise future problems and finishing it off properly which encounters the highest cost, it is after all labour. Ask if there is anything you may be able to do yourself to reduce the time required and hence the cost.
AnswerID:
225451