Dual Battery KISS
Submitted: Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:24
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pixiemops
I have a 50amp Battery in the boot connected in parallel to the starter battery . Good 10mm2 wires connect both with use of anderson plugs. I have the ability to disconnect the battery when I want to . If I have drained it I make sure engine is running before re-connecting it.
I even run a chescold rc1180 further along in the trailer when the car is running . The car a vx commodore. No problems with running the fridge and battery charging . I end up with about 12.6v in the 50amp battery after brushing off the excess charge. And when its stinking hot ice-cream frozen in the fridge. I see so many posts regards dual battery set up.
Mine works fine like this . Keep it simple stupid. No need for fancy isolators etc it works fine for me as is.
cheers
Reply By: _gmd_pps - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:26
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:26
until the day you forget to pull the plug ..
simple things amuse simple minds
good luck
gmd
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:32
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:32
gmd the only thing to remember is to start the car before connecting the auxillary .
Well thats what i do . That is not hard to do . Like I say KISS . You can spend or get fooled into buying unnecessary gadgets like I nearly did and would have cost heaps.
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Follow Up By: Time - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 12:25
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 12:25
Yep my mate kept it simple, until he did forget to disconnect one day. Result was two stuffed batteries, $400 down the drain, he got a Redarc for $110 now doesn't have to worry about having a "seniors" moment in the future.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:23
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:23
"Experience" will teach him the price of two batteries is far less than a battery isolating 'system'
Problem is, it could happen when he's camped 400 Klms away from the nearest available battery with any charge to jump start his vehicle, and he has to walk the 400 Klms to get assistance, and don't any-one suggest it has not previously happened.
How often have you been in the same
camping area as some 'smart person' who has woken with 2 x 'flat' batteries and needed a jump start ?
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Reply By: Ray Bates - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:50
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 10:50
I Have a 100amh DSB mounted on the drawbar of my caravan. All have is a solenoid circuit breaker wired up to the ignition. It works fine also without all the fancy gizmo's
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:12
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:12
Ummm,
what extra "fancy gizmo's" are you referring to ???
A FUSE is not mentioned, hope it's not classified as just a fancy gismo - is it ??
In your system you should have a fuse at the pos (+) end of both battery terminals, reason being when the caravan is not attached to the vehicle it still has 12v available at BOTH battery cable ends.
A redarc is based on a mechanical solenoid, probably same as you have, but protects the Cranking battery by not joining the Aux into the charging loop till the Cranker is showing a charged condition, (just surface charge) by the "smart" electronics, then both batteries share the alternator output, irrespective of their individual 'State of Charge' condition as they are then 'seen' by the alternotor/regulator as only one (1) battery, because they are in fact joined in parallel by the solenoid.
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Follow Up By: Ray Bates - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 09:19
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 09:19
I have a fuse at each end, one adjacent to each battery and an Anderson plug at the joint. I use 18mm2 cable with no noticable voltage drop
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Reply By: Member - Rotord - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 11:54
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 11:54
Hello pixiemops
Sounds like a good set up , but why didn't you put the battery in the trailer ?
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:10
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:10
Hi Rotord
I wanted it with the car as at
camp the trailer gets left behind then I haven't the ability to charge the battery with the car on those trips .It would then mean hooking the trailer especially just to charge the battery.
I could put battery in trailer would mean Id have to get some more andy plugs as the one on the fridge is only a caravan 2 pin plug. However as mentioned below I will still have the explosive problem of a wet cell in a confined area.
If you ask me dual batteries are a headache . Look forward to better technology that the fuel cell may bring.
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Reply By: Gerhardp1 - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 16:53
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 16:53
It's a shame there are so many hours of time devoted to designing things such as a Redarc.
All those people have wasted their time?
I don't think so, whatever you claim.
I'll complicate
mine with the redarc thanks, even if you think I'm stupid.
Frozen Ice-cream is nothing to do with your parallel battery setup, it's only to do with what temperature you run your fridge at. Please keep it simple stupid, and don't cloud your argument with irrelevant information.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:39
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:39
Waste your money my friend . I was told my setup by a salesman at the 12v
shop that it wouldn,t work just so he could sell me your famous redarc . Not only does it work but it charges the battery and runs the chescold drawing 9.5amps at the same time.
Now who looks stupid hey.
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:52
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:52
Next you'll try and tell us your fridge runs for 10 hours at 9.5 amps from your 50AH battery.
No need to start slinging personal insults, it just makes you look more simple. We can then say keep it stupid, simple.
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:42
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:42
Gerhardp1
I don't run the fridge when stationary. It goes on gas. One of the reasons Id never get a compressor fridge was just that the frigging around with dual battery setup. My initial reasons now seem
well justified. It was simply to enjoy a bit of telly while camping . It now seems more trouble than its worth .
cheers
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Follow Up By: Gerhardp1 - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:06
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:06
I have a single 100AH AGM battery in the vehicle which can and has run my compressor fridge for 4 days and still starts the car.
I charge the second 100ah battery in the camper via a Redarc. The only frigging around is the connecting of the anderson plug when I hook up the trailer.
Can't see any reason to get a 3 way fridge and have to frig around lighting the gas every time I stop. Then you have to frig around getting the gas bottle filled as
well.
Very happy with my foolproof setup. Seems I have less frigging around than you do ?
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:14
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:14
Gerhardp1
A 3kg bottle lasts me a week . It isn't a problem to set it up at all.
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Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:31
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:31
pixiemops,
Is the gas bottle in the boot with the battery?
What a mix.
This has to be a set up. No one can be that silly.
Wayne
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:45
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:45
No to the gas bottle .
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:38
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 00:38
The compressor fridge has "superior" cooling performance to a gas fridge for various reasons.
When you
camp for short periods of time,
well with gas you have to fill that gas bottle weekly (it says further up the page) and if your fridge is so small it can't hold a few weeks food at a time then you have to go into town to fill the 'small' with food and BUY more gas for your 3 way fridge.
Any number of posts will inform you a compressor fridge will "outperform" a 3 way fridge in "performance" every time without the problems of having an in-efficient 12v or 240v fridge to contend with while travelling.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 01:36
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 01:36
Mainey
You will also find posts clearly outlining advantages of a good 3 way like the rc1180. I know there are crap 3 ways out there like the b533 which is no good in the heat but the with the fridge freezer ones its a different story. With good wiring on the road my rc1180 is a great fridge freeze no problems even in the stinking heat.
For on the go camping yes a compressor would be great .For in the one spot like I do I choose to go with what I have. One day I may get both types so I can cover all possibilities. If I choose I could get a bigger gas bottle then it will last me two weeks before refill . I find I never need more than about a week anyhow.
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Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:56
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 17:56
pixiemops,
If this post is not a set up and you are really running a wet cell battery in the boot of a vehicle, you probably will not have to worry about connecting the battery for much longer.
Batteries give off a corrosive and flammable fumes. Not recommended for confined spaces such as the boot of the Commodore
The fuel tank is just below the battery and you say that you connect the battery while the motor is running. One spark and they will be picking you up in 3 different post codes.
The isolating system that you are use does not matter, it is where the battery is and the close proximity to the fuel tank.
Do yourself a favour and move the battery, under the bonnet near the start battery. I have fitted a second battery there before. A little bit of mucking about but it can be done and will be a lot lot safer.
Wayne
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:39
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:39
Wayne I have asked the question of putting in the boot to an auto sparky and was told no problem. But then again after the rubbish I do get told who knows.
As for starting the car and getting a spark KAboom you are implying that it is unsafe to start the car open the boot and light up a fag. Im sure plenty of people do just that and never heard of the big bang theory.
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Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:00
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:00
pixiemops,
I would change auto sparky or at least get a second opinion.
Think about it, if it was safe to put a wet cell battery in the boot of a vehicle a lot more of us would do it. I could fill the back of the Troopie up with batteries and have a diesel electric vehicle. Now I bet that has not been thought of before.
The other thing is that people might start a vehicle open the boot, light a fag, but they don't have a wet cell battery giving off fumes in the boot of the vehicle
There is also the
Darwin theory.
If you are happy with the set up then fine, but don't expect ever body else to do the same.
Wayne
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Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:08
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:08
The issue raised by Wayne notwithstanding, it sounds like your system works for you. Good on you.
But it would not work for me for a number of reasons.
Horses for courses I guess, but I reckon you should treat your system as a workable short term solution. Once you are in a 4B and doing lots of travel and using more power (assuming that's a longer term objective) I reckon an upgrade might be in order.
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Alloy c/t - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:37
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:37
Goodonya , people forget that even the fanciest battery isolator be it a redarc or a rotronics is still basicaly only a disconnect of 1 battery from another as long as YOU remember to disconnect its no different ,, hope your batt in the boot is
well tied down in an appropiate battery box and that you have a venting system in place if the batt is a "wet cell" ,your insurance could /will be void otherwise.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:45
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:45
Alloy it is in a box tied down . As for venting I did as a sparky see above and said no problem. Can you suggest how Id set up a venting system then.
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Reply By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:48
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:48
If the battery is a sealed on then I guess no venting needed
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:06
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:06
pixiemops,
That is a good point and there are a few vehicles that have the battery in the boot but the battery will cost the same as a dual battery set up under the bonnet.
Wayne
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Grandpa joe - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:58
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 18:58
Hey Pixie,
Good to see someone saving some money, In my brothers hilux we put a battery box ($14.00 supercheap) behind the drivers
seat, cable to the starter battery, isolated by a 500A rated battery isolation switch ($12.00 Jaycar) This was just for the occasional long distance touring trip with the fridge etc and he didn't want to carry all the dual battery stuff around the rest of the time.
Put the switch beside the drivers
seat with a lanyard cord to the door handle, so when he went to get out the switch key pops out and is bouncing on the flurescent cord on the inner door handle! (automatic isolation) very easy to remember to plug in when driving also!
The other thing we did do was install a surge protector ($15.00 Supercheap)
Don't worry about any one bagging you, You have just got to remember some people aren't as mechanically minded as they would like to be.
; )
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Grandpa joe - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:11
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:11
Battery Isolation switch Jaycar part number SF-2245
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:24
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:24
Thanks Grandpa Joe.
Unfortunately I am not very mechanically minded which is why I have always tried to avoid the dual battery issue full stop. And now that I have one wanted to keep it simple as I could.
As Wayne pointed out it may not be a good idea to have a wet cell in the boot in which case I will have to buy another sealed one for there . Maybe I can get someone to weld me something in the trailer for the wet cell but then again the trailer not an open one has a metal canopy. So same problem.
As for putting it under the bonnet was told impossible as not enough room under the commodore bonnet to put one.
Maybe the auto sparky thought I had a sealed battery for the boot. Never mind wish I never started on this dual battery crusade as I new it would give me a headache if not blow me up first !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Follow Up By: Grandpa joe - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:37
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:37
The extremely flamable gasses given off by a wet cell battery are quite minute and would take a long time to build up. If you are travelling, I am assuming you are opening the boot daily anyway so as long as you have it in a battery box and it is secured so as to keep from moving around, I don't see what the problem is.
Just put it in the garage when you are not using it in the car and give it a tickle with your fridge from time to time. Always maintain the battery keeping it off the cold floor and with a suitable maintaining type charger, it should last for years.
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:44
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 19:44
Thanks Grandpa Joe .
That is what I thought I was told . So then I assume what Wayne is claiming is incorrect then and the gasses are so minute as to not pose an explosion
hazard. The boot does get open every day and it is secure. The boot wouldn't be totally airtight anyway.
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Follow Up By: Grandpa joe - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 20:03
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 20:03
If I were running an auto electrical business I would install a sealed Odysey type battery with a placard on the battery box stating such for that one in a million chance of the bang theory! In this day and age everything is expected to be FOOLPROOF otherwise liability can be sought for anything!
You could have a second or third owner ten years later demanding a new tail light assembly!
Personally I run a second battery in the engine bay as I have room and use it weekly, also requiring a Piranha dual battery isolator due to convenience (or my laziness)
Lets not forget this is a
Forum and that your interpritation is just that.
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 20:13
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 20:13
Thanks think a sealed battery is my only choice to avoid a potential problem no matter how slim it may be. Ill put the other one in the garage and save it for a rainy day .
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Reply By: Crackles - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:46
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:46
Pix you certainly ruffled a few feathers with many feeling the need to justify the cost of their expensive dual battery systems but if there is one thing that can be learnt, that is everyones power needs & charging systems are different so no one setup is right for everyone. And just because your system is working now doesn't mean it will last very long either. Often fancy dual battery isolating systems are installed to better charge mixed battery's (start & deep cycle batts) so they get 6 years out of them not just 3. My system is even simpler than yours, 2 x 115 ah batts in paralell, no need to even disconnect an Anderson plug & it runs the lights & fridge for almost 4 days but again I wouldn't go recomending it to everyone.
Although it's nice to KISS, a bit of technology doesn't go astray now and again.................otherwise no doubt you would be still be riding on you horse & cart & not driving a V6 Commodore ;-)
Cheers Craig...................
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:52
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:52
Lol Thanks Graig good point. Whats wrong with a horse and cart anyhows???. Least no battery problems there.
cheers
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Reply By: Gerhardp1 - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:53
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 22:53
Pixiemops, in an earlier post I said I have a 100AH AGM battery under the bonnet which runs my fridge for 4 days.
You are missing the obvious with your determination to listen to a basically stupid sparky.
Throw out BOTH your wet cell batteries, and install a single AGM under the bonnet.
You will have no dual battery "problem", no dirty big cables running into your boot, no explosive bomb in your boot, more room in your boot, and you can still run your fridge on your mini gas bottle at $12 per week.
As you keep saying, KISS.
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 23:01
Wednesday, Mar 07, 2007 at 23:01
I cannot put in under the bonnet. An installer at the battery world says no way no room . If I use the battery for some T.V then no way would I get 4 days if it is also running a fridge. That is where gas is on it's own.
If you know where to put it in a vx commodore then let me know . Stuffed if I can see where it would go. As for a 4 wheel drive then maybe there is plenty of room.
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Reply By: Robnicko - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 11:27
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 11:27
Pixiemops,
You have opened up a big can of worms havent you?
Yes your setup works and will work fine. Personally I would not connect the two together when the engine is running as you would cause a large amount of draw on the alternator when doing this with a 'flat' 2nd battery. Isolators, like Piranhas one trickle charge into the 2nd or 3rd battery so as to not cause so much draw on your alternator. It could also spike and do damage to the vehicle computer, ignition system and so on.
Jumper leads do the same job,
$200 Fancy gizmo's are really there as protection for expensive gizmo's
In the end, if your happy with what youv'e got then that's all that matters.
Rob
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: pixiemops - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 12:40
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 12:40
Yes a can or worms it seems so. I may do some more research to find out what I may really need. I have been severely ripped off before with things people telling me what I need and should do only to find out it was all unnecessary.So now Im very cautious and only intend to act if needed. Using the if it aint broke don't fix it principal.
Rob can you tell me what I should consider then . As you know the starter battery connected in parallel to boot deep cycle . Then from the deep cycle another 2 wires connect to this battery and out to the trailer to run the fridge while on the road. The fridge draws 9.5amps . As it is works fine . If I have drawn power from the deep cycle figure better to have car going before re-connecting that incase all my power from the starter goes into the deep cycle and cannot then start the car.
thanks rob
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Reply By: pixiemops - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 12:43
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 12:43
I know you mention the piranha. If I have one of them trickle charging will that mean I will then ultimately flatten the deep cycle while on the road as the fridge will be drawing more than the piranha can handle.
thanks
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Reply By: Noldi - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 13:10
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 13:10
Hi Pix,
Good debate, looking at something similar.
I don't believe the amount of Hydrogen given off from one battery in a
well ventilated position, with a correctly operating charging system would be a problem.
Secondly I think the cost of a REDARC system is very reasonable.
However we have had 2 failures of the redarc system recorded in the club.
The more techo it gets the more susceptible the system becomes.
But I think the opinions are illuminating.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 16:33
Thursday, Mar 08, 2007 at 16:33
Noldi, "the more techo it gets the more susceptible the system becomes" is not totally accurate.
The wear and tear produced by all "mechanical solenoids" opening and closing (listen to the 'thud' just after start-up) is more failure prone than their modern electronic counterpart used in battery isolators, as your club records clearly indicate.
When electronic battery isolators fail generally it's because of some fault which can be attributable to "human" error, not equipment fault alone.
Check out an AGM battery if you want a quality battery that recharges super fast and gives off no gas, they are the only type of battery rated suitable for use/shipment in airplaines in a charged condition.
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