Camper trailer axles

"Does anybody know what wheel size and stud pattern the next series of wagons will have? Will it be ths same as the 17" IFS wagon now?" ????

Methinks Nostradamus was the only one who could see into the future. :-)))

Get hubs the same as your current vehicle and if for any reason you buy a vehicle with a diffrent stud pattern in the future then just change hubs and rims on the trailer. After all, if you can afford a new 4x4, a couple of trailer hubs and rims are chickenfeed.

maf.

Yep, agree with Willem, you'll go mad trying to out guess the manufacturers.

I've currently got a series II Disco, the camper trailer has 5 stud 100 series wheels.

It's not worth it for me to change the wheels & hubs so I just carry a couple of spare tyre cases, as it's pretty rare to damage a rim (thou it may happen).

MAF

Your question heading is - Camper Trailer Axles - and in the next breath you talk about hubs, wheel sizes and stud patterns. What happened to the axles??

(1) AXLES

If you are going to use a 'beam axle' in the CT I would strongly suggest you get a square 50mm with paralell bearings. This will give you extra, larger load capacity.

Also they can be made to whatever length you require with very little extra cost.

(2) HUBS

You can fit whatever hub with whatever stud pattern you like on these axles.

eg, Toyota six stud, toyota five stud, nissan six stud, pajero whatever stud etc etc (within reason)

along with the appropriate bearings and seals of course.

Now having said that, there is bound to be some 'martian built', thing out that won't match up, but that is show biz. (LOL)

Sooooooooooo! have the CT hub std pattern matched to your vehicle.

(3) WHEELS & TYRES

Whatever you can or do fit on the vehicle can also fit on the CT by adjusting the axle length and axle/spring pack setup.

Very easy to do.

CONCLUSION

If you were to buy a new wagon all you would have to do is buy two new hubs with the same stud pattern and three new wheels to match and have the trailer 'rubber' changed to the new wheels.

Or if you insist, add matching tyres as well.

Another trick is get the CT axle as long (width wise on the CT) that you can, so that the tyres have as much clearance that you can get in the first instance.

If later, a new setup to match a new vehicle brings the CT tyres out past the guards a tad then thas what 'flares' are for.

How do I know this chit - well I have just spent 18 months building one of these suckers from ground up to my specs.

Good advice from everyone. With the 50mm axle, yes go for it, but it's most likely to be the springs or hangers that break, so make sure they are up to scratch.

It is good if the axle is the same as the track on the tow vehicle but not necessary. It is only good as it reduces drag when towing in a straight line through sand etc. But then you think with only a slight turn of the wheel and the tralier won't be going in the ruts anyway regardless of the track. A few millimetres won't do much at all. Worry about other things first.

Barnesy