is using chipboard a good idea for a drawer system?

G'day, I would go for the ply and seal it with varnish or something similar, chipbaord if it gets wet will disintergrate. Not sure how chipboard will stand up to corrigations etc.

uneekwahn

I have no direct experience with chipboard in a project such as yours however I would suggest that if it wasn't waterproof you would end up with water damage from the inevitable accidental spillage.

I would think the strength would be OK as long as everything was screwed/glued tightly and well braced. Any movement at all at the brackets/joints would cause the chipboard to flake apart.

Just my 2 bob's worth.

Banjo (WA)

Uneekwahn,
I built _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx in the back of my duel cab 9 years ago and they are still going strong. As long as you keep the chip board dry it should last the distance. If there is a chance that it will get wet then have a look at HMR chip board. This has a water resistant glue in it and is designed for kitchen and bathroom where moisture may be a problem. How you joint the sheets together will be the critical factor on how long your boxes will last. I used a piece of 19x19mm timber along the inside of the entire join rather then angle brackets like you suggested. Each board was screwed to this timber. These boxes have covered a lot of rough country and are still in good order.
Steve

Gday Jason

I'd be going for the ply, it should last longer than the chipboard, although some of the HMR chipboards are more structually sound and take better to screwing etc than MDF. Had a look at your picture, and if possible, I'd be continuing the top shelf (on the rt) across the top of the fridge area, and put a back across both compartments (against the back seat), as this is where you will get the most streangth. Obviously you will need the fridge on runners if you do this.

By all means, continue with the chipboard, it will hold for a while. I have built 2 units previously, one out of packing sheets (mix of chipboard and MDF), and one out of ply. Both were strong and didn't fall apart, but both were side by side so inherently stronger anyway. If my experiences are anything to go by, you will redesign and rebuild a few times anyway until you get what you want.

I've removed mine at the moment, and have bought 1m long runners and some steel and will try it that way, just because of the weight of the fridge and it won't be the bottom drawer.

Ply is also lighter than chipboard.....

Have fun, Andrew

Have you seen MDF? Pretty much just as strong as ply, I think it's easier to work with, and you can screw into the edges. Very strong when making boxes. For that size sheet in MDF probably around $27.

It may be slightly heavier than ply, but what's 4 or 5 extra kilos? Difference in wieght of half a carton. Think of it like this, MDF is the extra wieght in the car of 1/2 carton before the night, and ply _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx is the weight in the car the next morning.

I thought mdf had totally superseded the old chip board. I would use mdf.

uneekwahn
I'm a huge ply fan. Lighter and stonger in thin sheet - I built a steel frame and lined it with thin ply (and i'm not much of a welder either). Ply least affected by water. My roof rack completely lined with thin ply - been in a few big storms etc - no worries. MDF density (and hence weight) 50% greater and usually you will use thicker sheets. I tryed MDF first up but my ply/steel solution about a third lighter. I use my _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx to step up to roof rack too - 2 years this way now and no damage etc. And cost, I got my ply from a salvage yard for very little - bought it in large sheets which saves too - it's rough but mine completely covered with carpet. JD

Jason

When I built my cupboards I used marine ply. That is what I would recommend. If chipboard gets wet it swells and disintegrates.

I used 20mm steel for the frame. I covered the cupboards with carpet. Helps hide my poor workmanship. I am definitely no tradesman.

Tjilpi

As other have said, I would (and have) use ply wood. Rather than building _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx, I have used plastic tubs in shelves.
I decided the the biggest structural issue would be the strength of end screwing into the ply - similar for chip board. To remove this issue all ends are alloy channel capped. The other problem is that unless you pack all around it, it wont have lateral stability. Even it you do pack all around it, once you unpack and do a day trip it wont have lateral stabilty. It will either need some from of backing plate, diagonal brace or top anchor. I have attached mine to the cargo barrier at the top.
This is only a verly ligh attachment, I rely this and loaded weight to hold the unit in position, has not bee a problem thus far.
My construction work is rudimentary :). As others have said the design takes a few goes to perfect. I am very happy with the arrangement operationally and it has be going without fault for 5 years.
The ply has not been finished - it is unsealed.
I routinely use this as my steps to the roof rack.
I would very much recomend you encolese the fridge - but leave openings for cooling as necessary. It means you can pack right upto the fridege.
Paul.

I do not think that Chipboard will hold up to the rigors of extended travel on corrugated roads.

As most have said, use ply. It is the by far the best...... but not the cheapest.

I have used MDF for all of my 'built-in' requirements in my GQ and in the trailer. It is versatile and strong and inexpensive and re-usable. Just make sure you wear a mask when cutting it.

Cheers

Have you thought of using 'cover sheet' ply ? When a timber yard takes delivery of packs of ply the top and bottom sheets are a second grade and are known as 'cover sheets'. Because they are second grade and may be damaged by tight banding, forklifts and transit scratches they are much cheaper. The cover sheets are really just tough packageing and in some yards they are sold and the money goes into a staff 'comfort' fund :-))

Hi Uneekwahn,
I am adding my 2 cents worth (inc. gst).

I would go for either 6 or 9mm ply and use a bit more aluminium angles for corners and across wide flat areas underneath. Do a cost comparison on 6mm play and you might be closer to the money.

Although "chipboard" might last, it is much heavier than 6mm ply and warps and swells with humidity (unless you use green hmr stuff for kitchens).

I like mdf but wouldn't use it for drawer systems as it ends up tearing out the screws and is heavier than chipboard. If you really want to go for something strong, light, waterproof and still cheap enough try HDR. It is a denser version of mdf. Use it as 6mm thick. We used to use it as prototype material for forming dies to test designs with before commiting to steel. It is so tough it is very hard to scratch, won't bend and can even be tapped for threads like steel.

If you are going to do it, do it once. If you then want to improve it, sell your first attempt to fund your second version. Don't waste money on cheap material where you will need to scrap it in the end.

Like I said, my 2c worth.

Cheers Cam

!MPG:3!

If you go to My Rig you can see what I did and at the bottom of the text is a description of how I did it. I hope it helps.

I suggest MDF not chip board. Much stronger

I built mine from MDF. It was meant to be a trial run but I have now been trialling it for nearly 5 years.

Originally it was built in two pieces covering the full wicdth of the cargo area in the GU. I put a fridge slide on top but the Mrs complained that it was too high. I modified it by stacking the two pieces on the right side of the vehicle. I have a fold down "tail gate" which doubles as a work shelf. Mine is divided up into pigeon hole type sections designed to carry particular pieces of gear, tool box, first aid kit etc. It is braced through the middle and both ends open. Things which I need to access regularly or quickly are accessed by opening the rear of the vehicle. Things which I need less often like spare parts are accessed by folding the rear seat forward.

Like I said I have been trialling this for about 5 years and it is still in good order. It was cheap and easy to build. It is versatile and can be re-configured easily. The down side is that it weighs a ton. I put it in when going on a trip and put the 3rd row seats in for day to day use around town. While this doesn't take long it is hard work because of hte weight.

I would like to rebuild it using a metal frame and ply but I doubt it would be as versatile.

Duncs

Mine is made from 12mm ply. Lots of liquid nails, lots of screws and each draw is wrapped with 50mm x 3mm steel routed into the ply and welded at the corners. Super strong and perhaps over engineered, but that's just me (and Dave - Geocacher a member of EO who gave me the original construction ideas). Build it once, build it right is my motto for this type of project.
I've also built a ply carry box for my outboard for the back of the Hilux.

I certainly would not use chip board, particularly for something as high as the unit you are building. Ply would be much better, and is lighter. If you don't want the expense of ply (though there is only $50 or $60 to be saved I'd think), then consider MDF.

Either way, glue and bracing are the key. Screws in chipboard and MDF will just help to hold things firm while the glue dries. Screws on their own are almost worthless in this stuff under stress.

!MPG:10!

All but just finished building mine as it happens, just waiting on runners for the draw and fridge slide.

I used structural ply for mine, not fully waterproof, but it's already coped half a beer from one the spectators to the construction with no ill effects, marine carpet is on the list to finish it of. The main frame is built from 17mm ply. All the joints are rebated the glued and nailed. The base has been shaped around the wheel arches to help keep it in place. The lid is thinner at 12mm and the draw will be made out of the same. Wasn't the cheapest material but I suspect the thing will outlast religion, or at least my car.

In terms of design, I have a full box for the fridge, with a back on it just behind the fridge leaving a pocket accessible form behind the seats. Means things can be packed over the fridge easily, allowing me to pack to the roof. Right side has a draw in the bottom but the top is just a shelf, for big things like tents etc to go on. This shelf is currently, and likely to remain, removable. We just routed out the sides and back and it slides in and out. Means I can just remove the draw and have a larger area, with the top still there to allow a pack to the roof.

It's probably overengineered, but with me on top of it (105kgs or so) it didn't flex a bit.

To get it in and out it is in two pieces, the left and right, and the top over the fridge comes off. Currently it's just sitting in the groove but will be doweled and probably have a latch each end to hold it in place solidly. I have no photos i'm afraid.

Cheers.

The chip board will do the trick ....... just make sure the sides are screwed and glued. I would also do angles on the corners and place a back on the cupboard. The back does not have to be as thick as 16 mm as it is really only a brace. You may want to cut some slots out of the back to allow air to the back of the fridge.

I will say i'd prefer ply but that's me.....

Just remember vibrations will be your biggest issue unless you go swimming with your vehicle to allow water into the back of the vehicle. If this happens I'd guess the chipboard will be the least of your problems :)

Brian

Jason, As others have said, plywood would be better than standard chipboard, though waterproof chipboard might be an option. I made mine mainly from MDF, 10mm where strength was required, 6mm for the sides. This stuff is cheaper, lighter and less prone to water damage than chipboard. I used no metal reinforcing and the setup has survived pretty well for 10 years.
!MPG:4!

HTH

John

I use 9mm ext grade ply and glue (adquahere) and screw everything. I don't want it too heavy and I don't brace it.

Don't forget Qubelok. It's good for dummies like me :)

Gday,
NO dont use chipboard!
Spend the money and use ply, mdf is better than chipboard but still not great.
Form ply or marine ply will last you a lot a years.
Cheers

Another vote for ply. I have used 17 mm form ply; the surface doesn't need painting and is very tough. At $75 per 2400x1200 sheet it is not cheap but it is strong. You don't need to reinforce anything with this stuff. Screws are all you need. I also used biscuits as I have a jointer. If the edges get wet they will swell but luckily will shrink back when they dry. Probably better to seal them. Casper

my 16mm chipboard units lasted 2 years in my first gu until i wrote the car off.
the same chipboard has been in my current gu for 6 years.
it has lasted very well (including some spills on it which did not cause any swelling).
it is heavy compared to others i believe.
it has survived all corrugations and a rollover !!!!