Saturday, Mar 31, 2007 at 13:19
Tol,
covered it in July just past. Info from diary at the time. I have GPS co-ordinates for some of the points mentioned. Great trip. Will be back out there in 6 weeks myself. Cheers. Mick.
"We had some 70 kilometres to cover to the
Gary junction. It went reasonably quickly, the road being of reasonable quality. Plenty to watch for though but the spinifex occasionally became unkempt and long. We passed two burnt out vehicles within a kilometres of each other the first, possible a Holden Jackeroo looked fairly recent whereas the second was an earlier model Landover. They broke the boredom and encouraged us to clear the spinifex from the undercarriage a bit more frequently. After 40 odd kilometres we broke away from the bordering dunes into open flat country, still sandy and spinifex covered but leading into the flats of the
Gibson Desert.
Stopped for morning tea just after 10.00 a.m. on a small rise populated by members of
the desert oak family. I failed to see a stump on the way in and drove over it thankfully squarely, with the front right hand tyre. After that it was less than an hour to the
Windy Corner junction which was innocuously marked with a 44-gallon drum and a Len Beadell plate. Some wag had placed a pilfered
sign indicating the route to Roebourne as being along the Talawana (which it is I might add). For us it was a right turn of exactly 90 degrees and a heading of 180 degrees, due south and that’s exactly what we did.
The Gary is indeed grown over and often hedged in by plant life in many
places. Its lack of use also means that at times the road is in great condition even if it is only two wheel ruts. Erosion and plants have taken their toll in many sections but you can maintain a reasonable rate of knots. Lunchtime saw us on the hilltop marked as on the map. There is a geodetic marker on a small rise providing
views of the surrounding plains. We lunched a bit below this in the shade offered by the spindly trees.
From here it was again on at 180 degrees. The road ran in dead straight lines of many kilometres, often the only deviation from true south being the occasional twist or turn around an obstacle or wash away. We spied several camels all of which appeared in excellent condition. One big fellow refused to get off the track giving us a bit of a laugh for a minute or two as he trotted in their ungainly fashion until pulling off to the left. About 79 kilometres south of the Talawana turnoff, we came across the forlorn wreck of a camper trailer, stripped and abandoned by the track. It had been a “Kanga-Camper” brand. Another excuse to stretch the legs and exercise the camera skills.
At 2.45 pm and 100 kilometres south of
the junction, we reached the shores of
Lake Cohen. This impressive stretch of shallow
water is nothing more than a clay-lined depression that holds a fair whack of
water. It is a haven for migratory birds although we didn’t see anything other than a Willie wagtail and the ubiquitous flying mice of the outback, zebra finches. The surrounding countryside is mulga and acacia
woodlands, the spinifex taking a back
seat for a change. These conditions continued to our turnoff to McPherson Pillar and the Mulgan
Rock Hole. We travelled the 30 kilometres in to find a shallow hole on top of a rocky
hill. The surrounding gibber offered little in the way of campsites so we continued on to the pillar where we cleared a little rick and spinifex to provide space for the tent. Wood was at a premium so we had to take a little drive back along the track finding nothing but ant-ridden mulga. No eucalypt at all and any that did bite the dust was soon eaten by the local termites. In fact Johnno was almost mugged by the local termite homeboys as he heading back to the ute with a piece of eucalypt. What we got burnt hot but left no lasting coals. It’ll do though.
We were up early, namely 6 bells. A roaring fire, jaffles and tea, the vehicle packed and we were back on the track to “The Gary” by 7.45 a.m. Not to long after we were headed south again on the 70 kilometres stretch to the Gunbarrel. We amused ourselves by stopping and pulling the fallen trees from the track thereby
clearing it and completing our civic duty for the day. Plenty of camel
sign on the road again but no surprises. We reached
the junction of the Gunbarrel in time for morning tea. There is a visitors book there now, again provided by Connie Sue Beadell on her tours. Gotta cash in I suppose.
From here we headed west along a very corrugated and washed out track. The Gunbarrel should be called the “Double Barrel” because of all the side tracks aimed at avoiding the worst of the corrugations. At times there were four or five side tracks, each corrugated to some extent and all sections variously crossing each other like some mad woman’s plaiting exercise! Lunch was taken atop Mt Beadell. Things have changed significantly here since my first visit in 1985. You can drive to the top of the
hill now. There is also a
memorial and
information sign dedicated to Len Beadell. A replica surveyors theodolite sits in a cage atop the
hill as a testimonial to him also.
Several kilometres on and the
sign to
Camp Beadell indicates that it is “under new management”. My decision to visit was rewarded with a new
hand pump and
bore…fresh
water of excellent quality so we took on 35 litres. Long showers tonight. We continued on the beaten track, enduring appalling conditions. The corrugations were so bad that I ended up letting down the tyres further to 22 and 27 psi respectively to attempt to alleviate some of the impact. It did help somewhat. Heaven help if we hit a big rock or washout though."
AnswerID:
230848
Follow Up By: Member - vivien C (VIC) - Sunday, Apr 01, 2007 at 09:23
Sunday, Apr 01, 2007 at 09:23
Mick,
Thank you for your detailed description. It was such enjoyable reading. I'm not heading that way anytime soon but wish I was. We travelled on the
Gary Junction Highway last year and became completely in awe of
the desert country. Hope to go back one day.
Thanks
Viv
FollowupID:
491823