Broken Wheel Stud
Submitted: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:08
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2918
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Michael46
I have a broken rear wheel stud on a 75 series Troopcarrier.
It looks like the hub will have to be removed to replace it. Is there a trick to removing the cone washers holding the axle flange on,
mine seem to be stuck fast.
Thanks in advance for any advice
Reply By: Tony - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:13
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:13
Tap around the outside with a soft hammer. Eventually they will let go.
AnswerID:
238810
Follow Up By: MintabiePete - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:41
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:41
I'd suggest leaving
the nut on a couple of threads when you do , they can travell a long way :)
FollowupID:
499850
Reply By: Member - Tour Boy- Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:42
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:42
Please make sure that you leave
the nut on the thread at least 1/2 a turn or at best you will loose the cone as it comes flying off at worst loose an eye!!!.
Regards
Tour Boy
AnswerID:
238816
Follow Up By: Michael46 - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:52
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 14:52
Thanks for that safety warning Tour Boy. I expected that they would loosen and I could prise them out.
Just proves a little bit of knowledge can be dangerous
FollowupID:
499854
Reply By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 16:15
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 16:15
Never never hit the outside of the hub , this will make the holes that the cone fit in out of round, then the cones will never fit in properly again end result is that the studs will work loose and snap.
Learn from my mistake.
Undo
the nut to the end to make a larger surface and tap the end of the stud, you don't have to hit them hard, I did my wheel bearings the other day and used this method in fact I have used this method for years now with out ill effect.
This was taught to me by a Toyota mechanic.
Cheers Steve.
AnswerID:
238827
Reply By: DIO - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 18:32
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 18:32
One broken stud would be good reason to replace the lot at one time. My suggestion anyway. p.s. hope you use a torque wrench to correctly torque the nuts. Overtightening, a long time contributor to such falures.
AnswerID:
238853
Reply By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 21:58
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 21:58
Yeh
well your all wrong, in fact I would have thought Steve should have known better, WRAP ON THE KNUCKLES FOR HIM, get the right sized little bolts about 1 and half inch long , 2 of them and screw them into the 2 threaded holes in the axle flange, that will slowly force the axle out , as someone else said leave the nuts on the end of the thread too so you don't lose the cones, , if you don't carry 2 required bolts , get them for next time .have a look at the link under the radio's
Site Link
Doug
AnswerID:
238944
Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:16
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:16
Hey Doug
Please read part 2 of your link.
Your apology is excepted.
Cheers Steve.
FollowupID:
499992
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:36
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:36
No apology is expected...ya silly bugger , read part 3 ....lol and if ya can't work that out then refer to part 2 BUT part 3 over rides part 2 , when you have all that sorted then proceed to part 4 oh bugger now I'm confused. SORRY STEVE
FollowupID:
500004
Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:46
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 22:46
Doug
It simply doesn't work your way.
I have been doing my own wheel bearing on my own Toyota's for 20 + years, You have to get them cones out before you can use the threaded holes, Trust me I do this bleep regularly and if that was the easy way I would do it.
I am that sure of what l am saying that If you can give me absolute proof you are right I will send you a case of what ever it is you drink.
Cheers Steve.
FollowupID:
500011
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 23:39
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 23:39
It simply doesn't work your way....???
Well I wonder why that when I loosened the nuts right out to the end of the thread, then screwed in the bolts , bit on one then a bit on the other until i had about 1mm gap showing , then backed of the 2 bolts , give the axle flange a tap in and the cones were left out enough to grasp them out, Steve I'm totally at a lost as to how that worked for me and has never worked for you , I'm not thirsty ....YET
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500016
Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 23:52
Wednesday, May 09, 2007 at 23:52
Hey Doug
Time permited EG: not being on tour I have another truck to service by the weekend, I will try your method to remove the cones.
Now I class myself as an honest man and if your method is easier than
mine I will stand by my statement and I will buy you a case of your choice.
However I do believe that we are on the same page, as to not hitting the out side of the hub.
Cheers Steve.
FollowupID:
500017
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 00:37
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 00:37
OK
just don't hit the thumb. been there .....done that
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500024
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 10:40
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 10:40
Forcing them out your way is an absolute no-no Doug. You can easily break things!
The proper method is as Steve says - a light tap on the housing.
FollowupID:
500065
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 12:05
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 12:05
Kiwi Kia
I'll just treat your reply with the contempt it deserves
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500081
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 15:46
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 15:46
Doug, I make no excuse for telling people the right way to do something. Especially when doing it your way will very likely do some damage.
Your comment "Yeh
well your all wrong" to Steve does you no credit at all. Any 'trades person' knows that forcing studs into the threaded holes will damage the hub. The cone design is specifically engineered to prevent what you are doing.
FollowupID:
500110
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 16:46
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 16:46
Kiwi Kia
Whoa Whoa ....when I want your advice in the future about how I do something to my car as per the written book I'll ask for it, until then would you please pull your head in , shut up , and read the facts first before opening the trap door....SNAP
Now go and read what is written in section 3 AXLE SHAFT part 3 UNDER THE RADIO'S in the link posted here for the 2nd time just for your benefit in the hope you just might learn something
Site Link
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Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 18:31
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 18:31
Hey Doug
Step 1, step 2, step 3, step 4, now if step 2 was not needed why would they print it.
Steve.
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 19:21
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 19:21
Steve
I'm no longer on about step bluddy 2 some other fool thinks step 3 is not the right thing to do so thus my scalding of him , anyhow you been excused and pardoned so don't stuff up your credit rating ....lol
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500154
Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 20:00
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 20:00
Doug,
If you read your own instructions CAREFULLY you will note that you only wind in the bolts in the taped holes AFTER you have removed the cones !!!
FollowupID:
500166
Follow Up By: Member - Doug T (W.A) - Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 20:06
Thursday, May 10, 2007 at 20:06
Kiwi Kia
You fool . show me where I said that , what damn comic are you reading , No where did I say AFTER THE CONES ARE REMOVED . get your facts right , case closed ,
FollowupID:
500169