Thursday, May 17, 2007 at 18:52
How long depends a lot on your mechanical ability, what you find wrong when it comes apart and whether you fix it or ignore it.
The instructions are clear once everything is in front of you, Setting up the clearances can take a bit of time especially if you have to get shims manufactured to suit. Some shims available on order through holden, I got
mine made at work.
Don't just bung it in if the clearances aren't within the tolerances, this will cause grief later.
The hard part is getting the diff out of the car, it requires a fair bit of disasembley to get it out.
While your in there clean, inspect and repack your wheel bearings and locking hubs.
Now would also be the time to replace any of the CV boots that are worn,torn or split and the upper and lower control arm bushings if required.
Also there is a bleep weak little needle bearing that hides on the inside of the hub assembly that is poorly sealed and never greased unless you pull the front end apart. In a magnificent flash of engineering brilliance ISUZU use the stub axle as the inner bearing race for this bearing, so be prepared to find it and the axle race it runs apon totally stuffed, which will require you to replace the bearing ,the seals and the entire axle/CV assembly.
Should also mention Holden are the only ba$tard$ that seem to have the required bearings and seals. Aftermarket axles are available at repco and a few other thieves.
There was a change in the front axle from mid 1995 (IIRC) so if your rodeo was build around then some parts are different to the earlier models (TF series not RA).
I took 2 days (in 43 -45 deg heat :(( ) but I basically overhauled the entire front end, changed all the bearings, CV's, seals, brake pads, bled brakes and anti siezed and greased eveyrthing as it went back together.
I should mention that torsion bars if they've never been apart or had anti sieze applied can be a B@#$#&^^%$ to undo, air
tools ie rattle gun and compressor highly recommended.
Having said all that it WAS worth it, as rodeos have limited articulation every time you cock a wheel WITH the Lokka fitted you do keep going, before I used to be stopped dead, steep down hills are much less scary as
well, no more tobogan effect every time a wheel comes off the track.
If you have no problems, rust or worn out parts and are mechanically competent you can do this in a day, if your learning and things are worn out and you do need to buy bits and change shims allow a couple of weekends.
Enjoy
Pete
AnswerID:
240590
Follow Up By: Ford Rodeo - Friday, May 18, 2007 at 12:28
Friday, May 18, 2007 at 12:28
Thanks Guzzi, As a matter of interest, what model, year and how many K's has your unit done? I've got the 98 TF Rodeo, 160k. I will be doing anything that looks remotely worn. I figure, if your in there you might as
well do it.
Thanks
Phill
FollowupID:
501667
Follow Up By: guzzi - Sunday, May 20, 2007 at 18:13
Sunday, May 20, 2007 at 18:13
TF 2.8 DLX twin cab
221,000 km
Late 1994
Yeah fix as you go along, its a PITA of a job in the driveway on jack stands, you really only want to do it once, would be much easier on a hoist.
goodluck
FollowupID:
502113