Isolating Winches
Submitted: Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 19:36
ThreadID:
46189
Views:
2558
Replies:
4
FollowUps:
3
This Thread has been Archived
Member - Adam S (SA)
Hi, I was just reading about Grungles misfortune and was wondering if any one isolated the power to the winch when not in use.
My winch instructions state that the clutch must not be engaged when not in use, but of course this lets the winch freespool.
I presume this is in case the solenoids malfunction a and supply power when not meant to, destroying winch.
If this is the case the only way that I can see around this is to isolate power,
any advice, ideas appreciated.
Regards,
Adam.
Reply By: Maddmav - Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 20:05
Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 20:05
I simply ran the small black earth wire to a switch in the cabin. The winch wont work unless the switch is on.
Vinnie.
AnswerID:
244237
Reply By: Trevor M (SA) - Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 21:14
Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 21:14
I've got one of those "red key type" isolation switches on the main power cable to the winch (right next to the battery under the bonnet).
The key is cabled tied to the wire so it is always there under the bonnet but it is switched off. If I am going anywhere where the winch may be required simply turn the switch on in anticipation.
Bought it on ebay for about $20 from memory. You have to get one that will handle the current.
Trev
AnswerID:
244251
Follow Up By: Nick R (VIC) - Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 22:04
Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 22:04
I have something similar on the bullbar, a battery isolator, I have one also on a tractor which is easily able to take the cranking power of an 85hp Deutz so I think it is up to the task.
Incidentally I also put one in parallel with the voltage sensitive relay that controls power going to the second battery, I can switch it on instead of using jumper leads if I ever run the battery flat, also means I can jump start other things with 1400cca provided the leads have a good contact!!!
NickR
FollowupID:
505224
Follow Up By: Crackles - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 15:47
Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 15:47
You may want to upgrade the Red key type switch as most are only rated at 100 amps continuous & many
winches are pulling 300 amps + just prior to stall. Would certainly work for a while but most likely fail when you needed it most.
Cheers Craig............
FollowupID:
505330
Follow Up By: Trevor M (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:24
Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:24
Can't recall the amps rating but was wary of making sure it was high enough for the current draw when I bought it. It was sold for use with a winch.
If it fails the fall back will be to screw both leads to the same bolt on the switch (bypassing it). Guess fiddling around with that is ok unless I am mid-stream or something. LOL.
Cheers
Trev
FollowupID:
505385
Reply By: Outnabout David (SA) - Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 21:16
Saturday, Jun 02, 2007 at 21:16
I always have
mine engaged.
The Earth wire via switch works when you have everything set up correctly but if those terminals are a bit loose and swing around and touch something eg the bull bar then the earth will come from there and hey presto yiou may end up with a nasdty result.
The only sure way is for the power supply to be broken. I have seen some isolator swithes put in but the usual off the shelf things are only 100 amp jobs which are useless under full load on a winch and current draw.
The easiest way is to just leave the positive wire off until you are in areas where you may need it. It is just a quick job to reconnect to the battery terminal and it is easy to work out... It is either connected or not.
AnswerID:
244253
Reply By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 00:34
Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 00:34
Gday
Ive seen a system where as you use one of the manual battery isolators on the power cable, but in reverse to normal...You can switch off or control power from battery A or battery B or both....i think they are rated at 150 amps, which may not be enough, but i thought it was a great idea....
Andrew
AnswerID:
244273