I wonder what the third problem will be!!!!

Submitted: Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:52
ThreadID: 46230 Views:3196 Replies:12 FollowUps:18
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Firstly, thanks to those of you who offered valuable advice regarding the little specs of rust on the roof. I will get some cutting compound &/or a clay block tomorrow.

They say problems come in three's........so that was the first;

Now I've got another bloody problem.!!!! GGGRRRRRRRR

The bloody Chev won't start!!!! I started it today and moved the box trailer from the garage (where it had been whilst I worked on putting LED tail lights on it), back around the behind the garage.....then I moved the camper trailer back into the garage. Parked up in the carport. Coupla hours later decided to visit a mate who'd been around to borrow my welder to do some work on his caravan. Jumped up into the Chev and when I turned the key, all I heard was a loud "CLICK". Each subsequent time I hit the starter; same result. BUGGA

What is the concensus? Starter motor or starter solenoid? I thought I may have stuffed up when I added a 3rd battery a few days ago (the extra battery is located in the cargo box and is a directly-wired set-up (ie: no solenoid, fusible link etc). It is purely there to provide an extra bit of CCA power for the starter. Maybe I've provided the starter with TOO MUCH CCA!!!!!

Anyway, I'll see if the auto-sparky mate who crimped the terminals onto the OO gauge cable I used for the job, can come around to my place and tell me what he reckons it is, I guess.

Anyway, as I said, I wonder what the 3rd problem is gunna be!!!!!!!

Ya gotta smile, eh!!!!??? ;-))
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Reply By: Willem - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:55

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:55
You shoulda kept the old GQ.....LOLOL

Cheers
AnswerID: 244445

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:19

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:19
Then what would I do to have FUN?????
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FollowupID: 505412

Reply By: Gramps (NSW) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:58

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 18:58
As per the previous post Roachie, Sorry, it's obviously terminal. Send it over. I promise to take good care of it hahahahahahaha
AnswerID: 244448

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:19

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:19
Al,

It'll be on the next semi headed your way mate.......Thanks for taking it off my hands. ;-))
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Follow Up By: Gramps (NSW) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:20

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:20
Roachie,

I know what the third problem will be. 'Lucy' will be along directly :)))))))
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FollowupID: 505441

Reply By: obee - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:04

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:04
The solonoid clicking but not cranking is sign of flat battery. Thats the forst thing to check anyway and then connections before ripping into the starter.

Owen
AnswerID: 244450

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:17

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:17
Owen,
Yep, I thought maybe I caused the problem when I added the 3rd battery....maybe the nut holding the leccy stuff onto the positive terminal was corroed etc. So, I removed it all and cleaned up with round file and wire brush, sprayed with WD40 and put it all back together. Checked that I had power coming in from the back battery (12.85v) and checked the main battery independantly before I put the terminal bolt back in (also 12.85v). Crawled underneath and checked the connection where the battery lead is bolted to the solenoid....12.83v

So I'm guess I have enough juice, but dunno why she's a no-wanna go!!!!
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FollowupID: 505408

Follow Up By: Oldsquizzy (Kununurra) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:22

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:22
Check what the voltage drops to when you try to crank it over
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:35

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:35
Thanks Squizzy...... might be a 2-person job.... as my arms aren't long-enough to reach the key AND hold the multimeter while I'm laying on my back under the front diff. hahahaha
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FollowupID: 505421

Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:43

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:43
My bet is flat battery or poor connection but poor conection might show up as sparks at the poor joint. Try holding the cable new the battery to see if it gets hot while trying to start the donk. If so, the battery is ok but you have a high resistance joint somewhere. Good luck
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FollowupID: 505453

Follow Up By: obee - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:06

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:06
if you dont have a meter to watch voltage drop when you crank, turn the lights on and see if they dim to nothing.

owen
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FollowupID: 505459

Reply By: Stu050 - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:24

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:24
Battery moved and shorted to body? (happened to me once going around a corner at night- engine suddenly stopped, and lights went out)

How old are the batteries?

The paste may have bridged some plates resulting in a dead cell. Check S.G. of electrolyte, should be minimum of 1.250Kg/L .
AnswerID: 244457

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:30

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:30
Starter battery that is in the engine bay is about 5 months old. The new third battery in the back is , well, NEW. Both are Supercharge N70ZZs, Sealed Lead Acid and have a claimed 760CCA. Being sealed units, I cannot check them internally, but when I started the motor a couple of hours earlier, it fired-up very quickly....no evidence of a weak or dead cell.
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FollowupID: 505419

Follow Up By: Stu050 - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:39

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:39
In that case, might pay to examine/replace the starter solenoid?

The company that I used to work for had a plant on a coal mining lease. Coal dust is very corrosive, and I used to have to clean out and/or replace starter motor solenoids and brushes regularly.
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FollowupID: 505425

Reply By: Des Lexic - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:27

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:27
Have you checked the connections to each terminal to make sure they are not just dirty or even the connection to the starter motor may be a bit grubby. I Have been caught out on that one before.
Better get it sorted before Warraweena in 4 week time cos no matter how much you beg, your not borrowing the 50 series
AnswerID: 244459

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:33

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:33
Bugga!!!!!!!!!! And here's me counting on YOUR generosity. What I was gunna suggest was that you could drive it over here, stay at our place for the 4 days and look after the boys; while Annette and I go up to Warraweena to see Willie and everybody else in your 50 series.

Then I woke up!!!!!!!!!!! hahahahaha
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Follow Up By: Blaze - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:26

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:26
Gidday Roachie, Mate its a FRED so it has to cause problems. I would disconnect the main terminals from the cranking battery, then if possible connect the leads via a set of Jumper Leads to another vehicle. Make sure if you do this you tape with 100mile an hour tape so they don't short whilst doing this.

I am guessing because its now 8pm you will leave it till tomorrow and get the sparky to look at and maybe this will help not make a Number 3 happen. LOL
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Follow Up By: Des Lexic - Monday, Jun 04, 2007 at 11:15

Monday, Jun 04, 2007 at 11:15
Bill, it is so sad when you have these lovely dreams (On a tropical island surrounded by beautiful naked women or driving a 100 series) only to have it ruined by waking up.
Never mind, but I can help you have one of your dreams come true.
Sorry I don't own a tropical island with naked women on it.
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FollowupID: 505604

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:42

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:42
Assuming battery is OK, then I think the contacts in the starter motor solenoid are making poor contact (pitted etc), so you still hear the click. I've had it happen on lots of vehicles in the past - I usually take the solenoid apart and clean up the contacts, but a new solenoid is the more permanent solution.
AnswerID: 244464

Reply By: Member - Terry G (NSW) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:58

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 19:58
Roachie
Auto electrics have always been your downfall - why don't you get the local lecco to look at it.

tgt
AnswerID: 244469

Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:06

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:06
Okay....situation update.

I just went out about 20 minutes ago and thought I'd check a few things again; just to be sure. Everything was still as it was before as far as voltage etc was concerned.

Just for the hell of it, I stuck the key in the ignition and guess what happened. The flippin' thing STARTED at the first attempt. I couldn't believe it. I don't know whether to feel relieved that I saved myself the $$$$ and embarrassment of having an auto-electrician turn up here and manage to start the bloody truck first go.....or do I feel "down" because I now have an intermittent fault?

Anyway, I think I'll get the sparky to have a look at the solenoid and possibly the starter motor, just to be on the safe side. As a couple of blokes have said, it could be pitting on the contacts etc or the brushes in the starter could be stuffed etc.

Either way, I don't want to be stranded away from home and possibly have to suffer the indignation of being towed to get started (especially if the only vehicle around the joint is Pesty in his bloody old 60 series. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;-))
AnswerID: 244475

Follow Up By: Blaze - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:32

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 20:32
Forget my post above now I read down :-) I would get sparky to check the ignition key barrel, I had a faulty key barrel a few years back... that caused a similar fault.

Hope all goes well, Don't want to have to take pictures of Des tow starting you with his 50 at Warraweena......
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FollowupID: 505447

Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:16

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:16
Glad you got it going Roachie. One of the standard things in that situration though ist to give the solenoid a tap with a hammer as it is turned on. Just in case that is slightly stuck. I don't know about yours on the Chevissan but they used to be just about all repairable - not so much these days.

Blaze, Nick knows of a certain Cruiser that has had 8v measured across the key terminals. A bit short on so a switch will probably soon be inserted in the circuitry.
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FollowupID: 505462

Follow Up By: Member - Luke (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 22:57

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 22:57
I agree with Blaze there Roachie. It could be your ignition. At work a few years ago I was having problems starting the forklift, was doing the same as your patrol. I arked out the two wires on the starter motor solinoid and it would start. I told the boss what was going on so he decieded to pull the ignition out. (Was thinking to myself what a waste of time its the blood starter). Pulled out the ignition cleaned it up and it worked every time from then on.

Hope you get it sorted soon cause as a Nissan owner myself would not like to see a yota pull the Chevissan for a photo shoot lol

Cheers Luke
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FollowupID: 505528

Follow Up By: shade10 - Monday, Jun 04, 2007 at 01:28

Monday, Jun 04, 2007 at 01:28
Hey Luke i have pulled a nissan out of sand because the silly bugger was towing a trailer and didnt let his tyres down, guess what it was in an old 87 4runner. Cheeky bugga!

Regrds chris and teena

That before it got stolen
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FollowupID: 505548

Reply By: obee - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:13

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:13
well that eliminates the battery and associated wiring. Like the man says, the contact surfaces on the solonoid. Might have to get new one. When thats eliminated it may be a fault in the starter motor but I doubt that since it will obviously turn the motor over. Oh come to think of it I remember starters not throwing in because of the alignment of of the cogs and solution was to rock the vehicle in gear i think. I wonder how old she is?

Owen
AnswerID: 244503

Reply By: Chriscd - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:30

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:30
Have a similar problem with my 60 series - no hassles when air con not used - come wet season - intermittent problem - have had starter motor stripped down, solenoid replaced, still no go - happens on most bluddy inconvenient occasions only.

Running twin batteries - still no chop after switching from one to t'other. All contact points, earthing etc checked & cleaned Aircon switched off no probs most of the time.... but can happen anywhere anytime..., aircon on - intermittent - an absolute PIA.

Auto lekkies in Brisbane and Darwin cannot locate problem - so have learnt to live with it - most times, turning off the air con fan solves the problem, sometimes it don't.

Could go for 6 months with no prob - then bingo!!

so good luck roachie.

C

AnswerID: 244508

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:46

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 21:46
Sounds a bit like the old falcon/holden problem - usually solved by putting a relay in the circuit to get full volts to the small spade terminal on the solenoid.
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FollowupID: 505482

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 23:04

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 23:04
Oh! Thank you, Thank you, God - you really and truly exist.

Yes! God I know it is much, much better to GIVE than to RECEIVE so I am about to to GIVE it to Roachie in big lumps. (Thank you again God - I'll be a good boy from now on).

Roachie!

I've been away for 48 hrs and missed you fessing up, but I am now here to Help!.

I did notice that Member - Michael J (SA) posted this followup

Do it once, do it right ROACHIE.......

Ifn what you have already done has not fixed it, a re-spray sounds in order.

...but get it done before 07.07.07, don't give anyone any more ammo.....LOL

Tooooooooooooooooo! late Michael, I've got him dead in the sights now (LOL).

(1) If it is angle grinder residue it normally rusts up in little tics that catch if you run a soft cloth over them.

Remedy : you have to get those metal particles out/off the paint before you can really polish it. Use no 2 Kitten cutting compound or a similar cutting compoud , however make sure you wash the applicator regularly to get rid of any metal particles you manage to lift off, other wise they will assist in giving the surface a No 69 cut and scratch.

Once you get them all off then a soft lams wool mop on a 9in angle grinder, and a fine polish compound. (similar to what the panel shops use)

(2) if they are pimples then to me that would indicate rust spots under the paint,and thats a trip to the panel works for a strip, rust remaval and neutralising and re paint.

Chevy wont start. (Aw! b u g g e r - ROFLMAO)

I shouldn't admit this but the Minister for anything and everything and I were out the back of Broken Hill recently in the Troopy and about to tackle a cross country course for the OBC 07 to check trip notes and mark caution points as it was a high speed night run.

Anyway the Right Honorable Bonz can't help himself and wants to fire up the locker compressor which he does - b u g g e r! nothing happens.

An hour (much carrying on) later I discover that when wiring in a relay for the new driving lights a week before, I have somehow pulled apart a hidden join in the power lead to the compressor.

So if I was you I would be going over that genetic mutant of thing you now have with a fine tooth comb so to speak, and check every cable and terminating joiner/e on same to see if you have accidentaly shifted something and broken a circuit etc.

Or you could be trying to start it on straight LPG instead of diesel, is that a possibility.

Who knows. I bet there are 6 zillion wires going everywhere on the sucker.

If you can't get it started by the July Warraweena Soiree, I'll go you 50/50 in the hire of nice 105 LC so that you can lead us unfortunates on those lovelly treks that Willie has organised.

Better still, why don't you sit with me in the Troopy and be my Navi and talk to tyour flock on my Icom 400. I'll even let you operate the Lockers.

Thank you god, again and again.
AnswerID: 244542

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 23:14

Sunday, Jun 03, 2007 at 23:14
Whilst I was thanking god , I see the devil has stepped in with an intermitent fault.

I re-read your original post and somewhere in my distant forgotten memories I remembered that the old Nissan Bluebird that I have had since new and still have, did a similar thing to me up at the station one afternoon.

Actually did it twice.

(1) The igition lead terminal on the starter solenoid had somehow over time become loose and wasn't providing a decent contact. (Auto-lec I use just squeezed it up a tad with some pliers)

(2) The starter solenoid just died. (ripped it off and took it to the same Auto-lec who replaced in 15mins)

If you want to save a heap of embarrassment arounf 7.7.07 get it checked.

AnswerID: 244547

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