Landcruiser front wheel bearings

Submitted: Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 16:48
ThreadID: 46860 Views:8254 Replies:9 FollowUps:8
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Landcruiser owners is there any trick to getting the split collar/washer to release when taking off front hubs to repack and adjust bearing. The book says use brass drift on the end of the bolts doesn't seem to shift them maybe I have to hit harder and suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks Greenant
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Reply By: Mudness - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:09

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:09
Sometimes a hit on the end will do it, other times I have found it easier to lock two nuts together on each stud and unscrew the stud which brings the washer with it. It takes a while but it works. I am sure there will be lots of other ideas. Cheers Mudness
AnswerID: 247907

Reply By: mikeyandmary - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:28

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:28
I have the same washers on the front hubs of the hilux. I get them out with a steelbar and 4 pound hammer. Brute force but it always works. Just need to make sure you hit it square so you don't damage any threads.

Hope this helps...
Michael
AnswerID: 247910

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:51

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 17:51
It has been suggested here that you need to tap the stud on the end.

But I've always tapped (not bashed) the outside of the hub adjacent to the collar. If you work your way around a few times, eventually one will pop off....then another etc If you keep the nut on by a couple of threads, then you won't lose the collars as they fly off.

Cheers
phil
AnswerID: 247913

Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 18:47

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 18:47
I agree with Phil 98%, I give them a slightly heavier tap and they jump out first time. Make sure you use a drift though, don't just hit the hub.
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Follow Up By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:08

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:08
I'll triple that :) Phils on the money!! Don't use a steel hammer as I did the first time or you'll end up with dints around the FWH.
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Follow Up By: Bob Y. - Qld - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:28

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:28
You can't beat a good quality copper hammer for that job.

I always give the stud a few taps on the end, but as Phil has suggested, hit the outer part of the hub, adjacent to the stud. Bit of snake's pee around the area doesn't hurt either.

Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

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Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:36

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:36
If you want to make the hole for the collar out of round, hit the outer edge.

The end result will be the collar wont fit properly, it will work the studs loose and then snap them leaving you in the sh1t.

Been there done that.

Cheers Steve.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:39

Tuesday, Jun 19, 2007 at 20:39
Hi Steve,
I known a few that have broken the 8mm studs on 80series. Just wondering whether you've seen any of the late model 10mm studs break?
Cheers
Phil
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Reply By: V8 Troopie - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 00:40

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 00:40
You got a lot of replies suggesting hitting one thing or another but nobody seems to use dismantling fluid to assist this process.
Get some dismantling spray or liquid, apply it around each cone washer and let it soak in for a while. Hitting the END of the stud with a brass drift loosened these things always for me. Sometimes one has to work around the studs until one pops, the others then soon follow suit.
Klaus
AnswerID: 248018

Follow Up By: Moose - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 13:36

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 13:36
G'day Klaus
Mate I've never heard of "dismantling spray or fluid". Could you entlighten me please? What is it used for? Suppose one gets it from Super Cheap or similar?
Thanks from the Moose
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FollowupID: 508908

Follow Up By: V8 Troopie - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 00:28

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 00:28
Hi Moose,
I have not yet spotted this stuff at super cheap but then, there is sooo much stuff on their shelves...
Actually, I think a place like coventrys or blackwoods is more likely to have it, even some bearing shops might have it.
I got mine from RS (RS Components Ltd), its called 'plus Gas'. A clear thin liquid that has special penetrating properties and capable to seep into tiny gaps.
You might also ask for 'penetrating fluid'.
I'm sure there are several different brands of that stuff on the market.

I also used it to free the knuckle joints of the steering linkage on my troopie, their cones took 24 hours of soaking while under pressure from a joint puller before it popped. That's one place you cannot use a hammer witout destroying something and heating is no good either as the rubber booth & grease starts burning.

The half litre metal flask my stuff came in should last for many years, being just a hobby mechanic & tinkerer.
Klaus

P.S. I just looked into my RS catalogue, they have a 200ml aerosol for $13.90, part #691-117. Also two other brands in spray cans are available but they no longer seem to sell the 500ml bottle of liquid I have.
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FollowupID: 509014

Reply By: greenant - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 07:52

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 07:52
Thanks to all that responded. I am going to attack it on friday so I will apply some penetrating fluid over the next couple of days and it will have plenty of time to soak in and should assist with the loosening
once again thanks to those that replied

Greenant
AnswerID: 248025

Reply By: Robnicko - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 12:37

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 12:37
Greenant,
WHen I do this on mine I always spray a bit of CRC on the cone washer first and then loosen the nut to the end of the thread but not remove it. Just tap around the washer with a hammer carefully and it should pop out (the nut will stop it from flying off). Do not try just getting one off at a time, work your way around all 6 bu turning the hub and they should come off easily. In worst case scenario you cen always use side cutters to slightly squeeze the washer and pull it out.

Rob
AnswerID: 248063

Follow Up By: Member - Matt Mu (Perth-WA) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 13:25

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 13:25
Im with Rob....CRC and leave the nut on just at the end and tap around the hub...not to bash them out...its to get the vibrations into the metal to brake the tapered seal.

If all else fails and you have a stubborn one...get a cold chisel or a pin punch and tap the split collar radialy next to the join. This will vibrate it directly and also take the taper strain off enough to release it.

All the best.

Matt.
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FollowupID: 508907

Reply By: Mudness - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 14:57

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 14:57
Greenant, how are you getting on, did they pop out for you?
AnswerID: 248084

Reply By: Middle Jeff - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 20:24

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 20:24
Hi Greenant

I have a socket that I keep for this job, it fits over the stud and sits on the flange and I hit it with a brass hammer that has a stainless shaft, it pops the straight out.

Have fun

Craig
AnswerID: 248147

Reply By: Pinarelloman - Sunday, Jun 24, 2007 at 06:04

Sunday, Jun 24, 2007 at 06:04
When reassembling, a thin smear of grease on each cone washer will prevent them from corroding in place. Thereby making the next removal/ service that much less painful and time consuming.
AnswerID: 248712

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