Solar Panell Fridge Combination

Submitted: Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 16:57
ThreadID: 46889 Views:4217 Replies:10 FollowUps:8
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To be camped stationary for two weeks without the use of a generator what size panel are you using to run a 40 or 50 litre fridge. I understand there are many variables but just wanted to get a idea of successfull combiantions of panels and fridges that are being used.

So can you tell me which size and type of batteries along with the fridge brand and size along with the size of your solar panel and whether the panel is mounted flat on your roof rack or do you chase the sun withe angle of the panel.

I have a 40 litre engel and I am thinking of mounting it flat on the vehicle roof but dont really want to own a generator as well. Only running one versalite 12v in addition to the fridge. Perhaps the autofridge or trailblazer could reduce the size of panel needed so tell me what works for you ?
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Reply By: Motherhen - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:24

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:24
I can only speak from our experience, not the technical stuff about what should happen. I may have given you a similar reply before; if so i apologise for any duplication.

When we bought an old wind up caravan, we bought a new Engel upright caravan fridge (around 130 litres), one deep cycle battery and an 80 w solar panel which we mounted on a frame, and only put out to face the setting sun when we stopped, then faced it ready for sunrise at night. The battery also trickle charged from the car, but this was very slow compared to even a bit of sunlight. The weather was mostly fine, and it was adequate for the fridge and two lights. We usually turned the fridge off overnight - if we didn't, the read-out panel showed orange (or a pale shade of red). We have now fitted the solar panel flat on the fibreglass canopy of the F250 to charge one AGM battery and run the 40 litre Engel car fridge and whatever 12 v stuff eg battery chargers. After all, solar panels on caravans are flat on the roof.
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AnswerID: 248098

Reply By: Rod - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:29

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:29
I run a 60L Evakool Fridge/Freezer in SE Qld temperatures with a 130AH battery. My 80W panel does not keep it going for more than 2 days. I suggest 100-120W of Solar if you want to stay for extended periods in temperatures into the 30's and have your freezer still frozen.

I keep frozen meat in my freezer section and don't like turning it off completely at night to save power but turn it right down.
AnswerID: 248100

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:31

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:31
kwk56pt,

I am running my 40 litre Engel successfully off a 40 watt panel, connected to a 75 A/h battery pack, but so far that is for a period of 5 days straight.

Depending on your fridge's current draw, you may get away with the same size, but an 80 watt panel combination would be enough.

I'm not familiar with other brands of solar panel, but the BP Solar Panel I have comes in a 40 watt size, complete with regulator, for under $600. You can then buy another 40 watt panel (minus regulator as you don't two of them) for a lower cost and attach it to the original with hinges. You may like to compare costs with a single 80 watt panel and regulator and see how much saving there would be (if any) in that configuration.

What I like about this approach is that you only pay for what you need and there is a cost effective growth path if you need more grunt, without needing to replace the lot.

Worked for me anyway.
Bill


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AnswerID: 248101

Reply By: GoneTroppo Member (FNQ) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:41

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 17:41
You may find this helpful, it answered a lot of questions for me

www.fridge-and-solar.net/howmany.htm

They seem to err on the conservative side.
AnswerID: 248103

Reply By: Russ n Sue - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 18:11

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 18:11
Hi kwk56pt,

you ask for successful combinations, so I won't bore you with a million calculations and things and here is ours:

2 x Sharp 123W solar panels
6 x 35 A/H AGM batteries
1 x 70 A/H AGM battery
1 x Plasmatronic PL-20 Solar Regulator.

This setup runs:

1 x Waeco CF-50 used as a freezer
1 x Waeco CF-40 used as a fridge
2 x 12W fluoro lights at night
2 x LED strip lights
2 x Laptop PC's at approx 60W each (for about 3 hours per day each)
1 x 150W modified sine wave inverter (for the various DC chargers that we have)

About once a week we run a 2.2 KG 240V washing machine via 1200W inverter. We also run a water pump for the kitchen sink, submersible pump for our shower and a 12V pump for the washing machine, but these don't run for long.

I have been keeping track of our usage and with this setup we have not gone below a 60% state of charge of the batteries. I manually track the sun with the panels when we are at the camp, but I leave them in one position facing North if we are going away for the day. We are usually back on float charge at around 2 PM each day.

We don't have a generator to fall back on, nor do we use powered sites at caravan parks unless there is little or no difference in the price. So far we haven't gone into power deficit but we have a contingency if it looks like we will....we'll be hanging around in dirty clothes and bumping into things at night (I can't do without my computer and the 'fridges must be kept running.)

Cheers

Russ.
AnswerID: 248116

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 01:05

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 01:05
Yes, this is WHY it works....

. . SHARP 123Wt solar panels
. . AGM batteries
. . Plasmatronic PL-20 solar Regulator

each item above is "technically advantaged"
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FollowupID: 509017

Reply By: KiwiAngler - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 18:23

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 18:23
I know you arent looking for a whole pile of scientific mumbo jumbo - I came across this website a while ago and it certainly helped me understand more about batteries etc.

If you can take the time to read right through it I dont think you will regret it.

If you can't then scroll down to the middle(ish) and use the calculator that is there

Battery "Stuff"
AnswerID: 248118

Reply By: Member - Brian (WA) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 19:10

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 19:10
Hi.My 2 bobs worth. I would say about a 80w panel&100amp hr battery. If you use the Engel as a freezer track the sun with the panel at about 45deg not flat,if useing
as a freezer when sun goes down turn setting down to 1-2.Try not to keep opening
it. I am going to be camped in one spot for 4weeks this year. I have 3x75 panels
running two 40lt Engels both on freeze. I have got to admit that I will be taking
a generator as a back up. In the past I have been in one spot for 3 weeks with
no problems like this. Brian
AnswerID: 248128

Reply By: ozidave - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 19:52

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 19:52
I have 2 Waeco CF 35s in a Trak Shak trailer. I use 3 x 64w Unisolar panels charging a 115ah battery in the trak shak. The panels tilt at about 45 degrees as they are mounted to the boat rack. I face them North West and can run both fridges and lights & other small appliances indefinitely.
regards,
Dave
AnswerID: 248139

Reply By: Topcat (WA) - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 23:02

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 23:02
I'm running 160 watts of solar power (2x80watt BP mounted flat on the roof) coupled to a 190amp hr. deepcycle battery & have been camped for 4 weeks running a 60ltr. Trailblaza fridge in reasonable weather conditions without incurring any power problems. You will need a minimum of 120 watts of solar energy which should give you a charge rate of 5amps/hr in good sunlight. Then it will depend on your battery capacity for the period in use. For 2 weeks I would recommend a battery capacity of at least 140amps. Check out my web sit for pics of my set-up. Cheers
AnswerID: 248174

Follow Up By: kwk56pt - Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 23:17

Wednesday, Jun 20, 2007 at 23:17
Thanks, It looks like 2X 80 watt panels are the go to be reasonably sure of a reliable power supply. Your panel set up is what I was thinking of. Are they charging in the down position when travelling, I mean do you get any stone damage or do you have a deflector ? I have admired those trailblazer fridges, gather you are happy with yours ?
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FollowupID: 509005

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 00:53

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 00:53
kwk56pt

Watts just ain't Watts...

Now the confusing stuff, the nitty gritty techno stuff not mentioned above..

The test used to give the 80 Watt (or any other wattage) solar panel it's 80 Watt rating is done at "premium" or "best performance" times of the day under "best test conditions" it will state this in the panel specifications booklet, and most often is not obtainable for more than just a few hours per day under decent weather conditions.

Some solar panels use vastly different cell technology to others, there are 3 different solar cell technologies mentioned above in this thread to date.

Just like comparing 'petrol' yes the liquid gold that is still used in some cars whereby some is rated as 'unleaded', some as 'high performance' and some used to be called 'leaded' they were all known as "petrol"
Well solar panels are made with different types of specifications too, some will work better or hotter or colder or longer (start earlier and finish later) than others, but yes, they will still have the same rating in Watts.

You can't compare brand (a) solar panel with brand (b) solar panel even if they are both rated at exactly the same number of watts, because their different technical cell design and inherent efficiency will be totally dissimilar, you have to compare two technically identical solar panels to make any sense of the relevant Amp output number.

One panel will turn 'daylight' into Amps another will not, it has to wait till the sun is shining on the surface of the solar panel before it will start to turn 'sunshine' into Amps.

“Hypothetical” example
(a) start at 10am puts out average 4 amps till 4pm (total 6 hours = 24A)
(b) start at 9am puts out average 4 amps till 5pm (total 8 hours = 32A)
(c) start at 8am puts out average 4 amps till 6pm (total 10 hours = 40A)
(d) start at 8am puts out average 3 amps till 6pm (total 10 hours = 30A)

You have to get the most amps out of every given day, and single charge regulators can't (read as - will not) give you that 'best' result, they in fact will waste your money and time, yes, they do work to a degree, just like budget priced single stage battery chargers are inefficient when compared to 3 stage battery chargers.

Consider a Sharp 123W poly-crystalline solar panel charging two (2) AGM batteries of about 80 to 100 ah each, with a 3 stage solar regulator, not a budget priced, single charge regulator.

Mainey...
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FollowupID: 509016

Follow Up By: Topcat (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 09:53

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 09:53
kwk56pt

I have never had a problem with stone damage. The panels are connected 24/7 to the deep cycle battery - even when the vehicle is parked at home when I'm not travelling. It helps keep the battery fully charged & reduces sulphation which decreases the battery life. As mentioned on previous posts on this forum I get an average of 6 - 8 years life out of them. I have had the Trailblaza for 25 years now & it has been running trouble free during that period.

To Mainey (WA)

I agree with some of your comments & can only speak from experience. I have been using solar energy & deep cycle batteries for over 30 years, the current setup on my vehicle for some 15 years. The average charge rate I get from my solar panels in sunny conditions is 5 amps & the regulator I'm now using has given me results to my satisfaction. Cheers.
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FollowupID: 509050

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 18:58

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 18:58
Topcat, good to read someone can come to some agreement... lol
as you say->
"you have had the current setup on your vehicle for some 15 years.
The average charge rate you get from your solar panels in sunny conditions is 5 amps (each) & the regulator your now using has given you results to your satisfaction"

Your solar system is a BP, which feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, would be a 'monocrystalline' panel, yes they will give a maximum 4.97 amps, which is ~5 amps, as you say in good conditions.

However the point I was (attempting) to make was some of the newer technology solar panels available now, will have started to work well before the sun even shines on the panel, I don't believe monocrystalline panels are capable of matching the performance of the new technology panels available nowadays.

I checked my solar reg at 6.55am this morning, well before the panel was anywhere near sunshine as it was sitting between two buildings, there was 0.2 amps going to the AGM's and a total of 0.3 amps current output available, the fridge is connected and would have used power when running during the night, the batteries were fully charged.
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FollowupID: 509162

Follow Up By: Topcat (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 22:41

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 22:41
Mainey(WA)

Point taken. New technology will give better results but as I said my panels are now 22years old (I had them on another vehicle prior to my present Troopy) & they still perform to my requirements. As the saying goes 'If it ain't broke why change it' & go to un-necessary expense for a couple of extra charging amps!!

I'd be interested to see what life you get out of your AGM's though, as I try to keep mine no more then 25% discharged at any one time (i.e. 75% fully charged). That way I can get more then 800 charge cycles out of them. Cheers.
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FollowupID: 509220

Follow Up By: Topcat (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 22:51

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 22:51
Mainey(WA)

Point taken. New technology will give better results but as I said my panels are now 22years old (I had them on another vehicle prior to my present Troopy) & they still perform to my requirements. Just another thing to point out - both my panels are connected in parallel giving 160 watts total & I can easily get a charge rate of 8 amps in sunny conditions. As the saying goes 'If it ain't broke why change it' & go to un-necessary expense for a couple of extra charging amps!!

I'd be interested to see what life you get out of your AGM's though, as I try to keep mine no more then 25% discharged at any one time (i.e. 75% fully charged). That way I can get more then 800 charge cycles out of them. Cheers.
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FollowupID: 509226

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 23:03

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 23:03
Topcat,
I can honestly print here the Fridge "auto disconnect" is set at 11.5v and has never ever been activated.
I can't remember ever seeing the Aux battery guage, and I have 2 of them, reading under 12v.

First thing in the morning, when it's still Dark, the Aux batteries show about 12.4v, this morning at 6.55am it was 13.? volts.

My AGM's are only 13 or 14 months old and I do expect 10 years from them ☺
My last Deep Cycle batteries were 4 yo when I changed them, not because they failed, just that I had the chance to get these new AGM's.

One of the old DC's was given away to run a fridge and the other I still use as my Starter battery, so it's about 5 years old now.
Mainey...
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FollowupID: 509231

Reply By: Member - Peter H (WA) - Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 01:31

Thursday, Jun 21, 2007 at 01:31
Hmmm

Sounds like my set up is a bit of overkill.

4x130w Kyocera Panels
400a/h Batteries
Morningstar Tristar 45

running...

Waeco HDC 190 upright fridge
3 converted Coaster led lights
1 12w fluro
3 x 11w fluro's
water pump
TV
Laptop

and asociated rubbish.

I dont think I will run out of power for a while.
Only got the fridge today so I havent installed it as yet.

The converted coaster lights are the light fittings that come standard in a coaster but I have ripped the guts out of them and built in 36 140,000mcd led's. So a total of 108 leds. With all 3 on it draws .99amps

All lights on at the same time..a tad under 5amps

Peter
AnswerID: 248188

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