tips for jump-starting electronically controlled TD
Submitted: Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:20
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pathfinder
okay, don't laugh, but I've just bought a 1999 S2 Td5 Discovery after getting a good run out of a 1993 200Tdi Disco. The Td5s are supposed to be less reliable than the 200Tdi but the missus insists on dual airbags, and I like the idea of being able to chip a TD for considerably more power at reasonable cost.
My question relates to jump-starting an electronically-controlled TD as opposed to my mechanically-controlled old tractor whereby I would just whack on some rather serious home-made jumper leads. Do have to use some sort of 'anti-spike' leads or if you just connect/disconnect in the correct order, will everything be ok?
Thanks
Reply By: Member -Dodger - Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:39
Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:39
You can get Jump leads that have an anti spike system built in and you can buy this anti spike system from the after market guys. It is easily fitted.
When jump starting your vehicle or any vehicle for that matter the two positive terminals are connected direct and the negative terminal of the jump lead is placed somewhere on the body or block of the vehicle that needs a start. Usually there is a lift piece for lifting the motor attached somewhere.
Little hint when the batts are connected correctly give the connections at least a minute so that the electronic fuel pump and any sensors get power first this will aid starting then start as normal. This includes glowing if the vehicle requires it.
AnswerID:
249007
Reply By: Exploder - Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:42
Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:42
Earthing on you Disco will be to a bracket on the engine somewhere and not the - on the battery.
it will all be in your owners Manuel somewhere.
Anti spike leads are a good measure but i have never worried about them.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Duncs - Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:59
Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 17:59
Is that why they call you Exploder?
Sorry bad joke, but someone had to say it and as my kids will tell you, that someone is usually me.
Duncs
FollowupID:
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Reply By: obee - Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 20:37
Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 20:37
Let the start vehicle run for a minute or two so the flat battery will fill some and provide a bit of resistance and then there should not be too much voltage drop on the starting battery when the motor cranks.
I cant comment on the special leads though I have jump started a prado that had a flat battery and no anti spike gear.
Owen
AnswerID:
249079
Reply By: Martyn (WA) - Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 22:31
Monday, Jun 25, 2007 at 22:31
Pathfinder,
I've recently purchased a 300 TDi, when you chip your TD5 be careful re the cylinder head. I recently did the head on
mine because they inevitably go sooner or later and I wanted to catch it before it "went". The cyl head place I took it to put things into perspective for me, they rarely see the 200 tdi heads, they usually see four 300 TDi heads to every one 200 TDi head and they see five TD5 heads to every one 300 TDi head. The TD5 heads are usually about $3000 to replace and have to be replaced more than the 300 TDi heads, the 300 TDi seem to be a tad more repairable, casting problems from what the owner was telling me. Just trying to give you the "heads up", and yes I hate that saying to but it seemed to fit. Moe power always has a consequence somewhere...........
AnswerID:
249127
Follow Up By: pathfinder - Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 08:27
Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 08:27
when you say you 'did' your head pre-emptively, does that mean that you just replaced the head gasket? Did this require the head to be machined as
well? What sort of cost?
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510103
Follow Up By: whyallacookie - Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 14:52
Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 14:52
The head on the 300Tdi is hardened and therefore not recommended to be shaved. The only problem with the 300tdi head is overheating it, like most alloy heads they don't like it, do they Pauline!
The 300tdi seems more susceptible to overheating for 3 reasons, stupid heater hose location (1 runs around the back of the head between it and the firewall, if you have one go cut up a radiator hose or something now and put it over it to protect it) and the other is the temp gauge sensor location means if you loose coolant there is a good chance it won't register on the temp gauge until it is too late anyway. (Job 2 go get a coolant level sensor, cheap insurance on any vehicle against coolant loss) the other is they can be a pain to bleed air from if you rush things and you can end up with an airlock in the cooling system, this is apparently becomming common in most new vehicles
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 19:57
Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 19:57
Pathfinder,
In answer to your response pre-emptively yes I did, I also had the head shaved, the person who I spoke to who personally I have down as a LR guru told me that the heads tend to bow in the centre which usually results in a blow by between no 3 and 4 cylinder. And they usually pop around the 160 to 170 k mark. When I was looking for a LR Discovery it was quite eerie how many had had head work done and were for sale around this klm range. I've got some silicon sheath to put over the hose at the back of the engine as Wyallacookie mentions, all good advice. The metallurgic state of the head changes when it overheats being aluminium it's more susceptible to this. I checked the hardness before and after machining there was three fifths of FA difference so I'm not to fussed about it.
The two back head bolts and the rocker shaft bolts are a pr!ck to get at with an angle gauge on them between the head and the firewall, but you've got to do it. Some people have found these bolts loose in the past suggesting they've been forgotten or put in the "to hard basket".
Hope this advice helps, thanks for the input Wyallacookie.
FollowupID:
510253
Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 08:40
Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 08:40
When studying electricity one of the first things you learn is that when you interrupt the current into a coil, a high voltage will be generated (sometimes painfully). That's how every ignition coil works - feed the primary with 12 volts, interrupt the current and 300 volts gets generated (which is converted to thousands of volts in the secondary winding connected to the spark plug).
Every time you turn off your starter motor you are interrupting hundreds of amps flowing through the starter motor coils and generating massive power surges - which your car electrics survive at every start.
So I don't know why people think that disconnecting a second battery or jump starting generates more dangerous voltage surges (provided you jump with the correct polarity and voltage).
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 22:33
Tuesday, Jun 26, 2007 at 22:33
A good battery absorbs the spikes nicely. Perhaps a dead battery may not???
But I agree the surge thing is overdone. Surely surge protection is built into every vehicle that comes out of the factory these days.
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Reply By: disco1942 - Wednesday, Jun 27, 2007 at 01:33
Wednesday, Jun 27, 2007 at 01:33
The D2 hand book says to earth the negative lead to the block of the receiving vehicle only for the V8. For the Td5 it says just battery to battery.
PeterD
AnswerID:
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