Trailers

Submitted: Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 21:09
ThreadID: 47381 Views:2876 Replies:11 FollowUps:11
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Hi guys,

Is it feasible to fit a 2" block between the axle and leaf springs to increase ground clearance? I am keen to gain a little more clearance in order to fit AT tyres on a 99 model Aussie Swag. All experience and opinions,

Cheers,

Mark
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Reply By: Member - Duncs - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 21:56

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 21:56
More detail about the existing system might help us give accurate advice.

Duncs
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Follow Up By: vuduguru - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:37

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:37
An opinion will do!
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Reply By: disco1942 - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:11

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:11
Mark

The preferred way is to remove the spring mounting points from the chassis and add some box section (50 x 25 mm or 50 x 50 section) under the chassis and re-attach the springs. This will make a much stronger finished job. Adding spacers between the axle and spring will cause a lot more stress on the springs.

PeterD
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Follow Up By: vuduguru - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:35

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:35
As I said... engineeringly!
spacer height is obviously relevant.
Shane
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Follow Up By: vuduguru - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:43

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:43
by the way... I'm in NSW
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Reply By: vuduguru - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:31

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:31
Definitely "feasible" , am having a similar dilemma myself, so interested in the replies.
As far as I understand ...and please don't quote me. From a registration perspective..... rules are a little less tight that cars per se. If you maintain the functionality ie. boat trailer remains a boat trailer and the installation is sound, from an engineering perspective (must pass rego inspection) .... no problem.
I have a HD Classic Trailer with 14" holden wheels that I would like to convert to LC 100 hubs / wheels.
If you look at it from the perspective of vehicles.... a spacer (block) that raises the suspension does not require an engineers certificate, in most cases! [insert disclaimer]).
If it is sound, mechanically /architecturally / engineeringly, you should have no problem.
I say that, because you and I obviously respect others, and the inspector will accept the request for approval as is, with respect to the above.
Luck! and keep as posted as to the out come.
Regards
Shane
AnswerID: 250621

Reply By: Patrolman Pat - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:47

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:47
If you raise your trailer by 2" will the tent still reach the ground correctly. My canvas is measured to meet the original trailer height and just makes it at a bit of a stretch since I fitted bigger tyres to match those on the car.
AnswerID: 250625

Follow Up By: vuduguru - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:02

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:02
Good point Pat.
So would blocks on the trailer / tent help?
Options may include, lowering tyre pressures?
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Follow Up By: Andrew from Vivid Adventures - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:25

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:25
by definition, if you have to raise it two inches to fit the tyres, you are raising the top of the trailer 4 inches - 2 from the increased diameter and 2 from the spacers or whatever other course you choose.

You won't loose 4 inches unless you take to them with a knife - your tyres I mean, and this might make for a slower start in the morning.

When you're buying the tents for the trailer, they specify the range of heights supported. This is important as there are no real ways of making it work with a higher bed-base.

Cheers
Andrew.
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Reply By: Andrew from Vivid Adventures - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:59

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 22:59
A few things to remember - if you're fitting 100 series wheels, your Cruiser wheels, tyres and presumably hubs will weigh quite a bit more than the little holden jobbies, and this additional weight is hanging on them there springs which by now are looking like they might not be up to the job too.

So, a heavier axle might be in order too... and by now, you could be forgiven for thinking that there is quite a bit to think about.

As someone mentioned below, most of the tents won't handle raising the top of the trailer the 4 or so inches necessary for the cruiser wheels ... and probably not even a few inches for larger tyres.

Cheers
Andrew.
AnswerID: 250628

Follow Up By: Muzzgit [WA] - Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:12

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:12
And not forgeting that you will probably need shockies to control all that extra weight.

Cheers,

MUZZ
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Reply By: Member - Royce- Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:58

Tuesday, Jul 03, 2007 at 23:58
Have you considered a 'leaf-over' conversion. i.e. sit the springs on top of the axles?

AnswerID: 250636

Follow Up By: MP - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:13

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 07:13
That's what I was thinking. For a normal spring set up the springs are under the axle and if you fit a spacer between the two you will only lower the trailer body. The other thing I have seen is if the stub axles are welded to the top of the axle is to turn the axle over.
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Follow Up By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:50

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:50
Already must be axle under leaf.
If you put in 2" blocks with a axle over leaf, it lowers the trailer 2". :o)
Like we used to do with the old leaf sprung holdens and falcons.
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Reply By: Member - Gomax (VIC) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 05:58

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 05:58
Aaaah, remember doing this to my FJ
AnswerID: 250641

Follow Up By: Alan S (WA) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 14:49

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 14:49
I know some young guys from my youth did this to a FB, they rotated the axle (left to right) so that the mounting brackets were in the correct place.

They forgot that this gave them 3 speed reverse and 1 forward and promptly put it through the garage wall.

Alan
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Reply By: gbc - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 09:49

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 09:49
snake racing sell spring lift blocks - machined alloy for less unsprung weight.

Easy to do, though you might need new u-bolts
AnswerID: 250672

Reply By: mark1970 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 12:39

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 12:39
Hi guys,

Further more to my initial post. The camper has a solid 45mm axle, with shocks and leaf springs mounted on top of the axle. The existing rims are 15". Have done a fair amount of work with the camper and she holds up well, however occasionally the tyres rub the wheel arch. There is only a couple of inches clearance, and due to slipper springs (I think?) the tyres rub toward the back of the wheel arch.
I have considered modifying the area at which the springs attach to the chassis, but would like to keep the camper looking as "unmodified" as possible, and the chassis has a good HDG job.
I would like to weld a solid 45mm block on top of the axle to mount the springs on (new u bolts), however am worried that the increased bending moment on the axle may stress the mounting point of the springs (top and bottom) resulting in a tendency for the axle to want to roll.
The existing tyres are a crappy brand and would like to fit AT's as I have steel braids coming out of the tyre wall - all a result of Plenty Highway corrugations,

Cheers fellas,

Mark
AnswerID: 250691

Follow Up By: mark1970 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 12:52

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 12:52
OOPS,

Forgot to mention that the camper is a hard floor type and that the awning has no walls - so hight increase is not an issue,

Cheers,

Mark
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 14:02

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 14:02
Quote - "however am worried that the increased bending moment on the axle may stress the mounting point of the springs (top and bottom) resulting in a tendency for the axle to want to roll."

That is why I suggested adding the packing pieces between the spring mountings and the chassis as the better way to go.

"but would like to keep the camper looking as "unmodified" as possible" - adding the packing pieces between the axle and springs will look the more bodgie job. Spend a little more money and do the job properly from the beginning and not risk damage to your suspension.

PeterD
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Reply By: Member - Duncs - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:01

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:01
As Disco has suggested it might be better to fit the spacers between the spring and the trailer. It also means less change to the unsprung weight.

If the wheels are currently fowling the guard even if it is only occasionally you may need to widen the track on the trailer to overcome this, could be expensive. You would certainly have to check the offset on the new wheels to see if it caused a problem.

Duncs
AnswerID: 250759

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:53

Wednesday, Jul 04, 2007 at 19:53
Still might be easier in the end to convert the slipper springs to shackled springs.
That way you can also play with the set of the springs and the shackle plate lengths.
AnswerID: 250781

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