Boost for diesels or bust

Hi Batts,

Along the same line
I was told I could fly (like Superman), but flying makes me sick. I'll go by road instead.

It's a bit like interest rates-- If it sounds too good to be true, it probably isn't.

In your case it just might work, but try it in your vehicle first.

Not worth the risk IMHO.

Disco

I have heard of truckies sticking a few litres of unleaded into their tank of diesel to give a boost. I cannot verify if true but have also heard that refineries will stick some aviation fuel into their diesel, if they have an excess of aviation fuel, I am sure someone on this forum will verify if this is an old wifes tale or not.
Off to work so cheers for now Pete

Years ago some used to add about 3 to 5% petrol in their trucks. And I mean years ago.

Today I believe you would be mad to add anything, especially with rotary pumps

The cost of a pump would far out way any power gain.

Have a good one

The Ape

Ther are a few very detailed articles which you can google about the "benefits" of adding acetone. The main reason I believe was the decrease in consumption and in particular in petrol engines. Do some sinffing around and make up your own mind, I haven't heard or read from anyone that has damaged their engine, so can't say yeh or neh.

Cheers Walter

Have you priced acetone lately????
Seems to be a lot more expensive than ever before.

an old 2h maybe but wouldnt try it with common rail,

Adding Acetone or Petrol to Diesel is exactly what you do not wish to do.

It raises octane , which is opposite of Cetane.

Its diesel fuels Cetane number which is increased by additives for winter use etc.

Robin Miller

My genuine Nissan manual states that, in winter, up to 30% petrol may be added to diesel fuel. I would assume that would be Alpine type winters.
Grist for the mill
Cheers

I seen a recent program on Mythbuster's they tried everything and it is all Bullsh##

Perhaps the best thing to do is buy a motor that doe's not blow up did someone mention a nissan 3 liter diesel ?

regards John

Here is some info I downloaded some time ago. It explaines the theory behind adding Acetone. Basically the theory is that the fuel is more easily vapourised , that is into smaller particals therefore a better burn.

I am not supporting this just supplying some info.
Dave L.

Some engines respond better than others to acetone. It is important to use the same gasoline from the same gas station when testing mileage otherwise you have too many variables and get undependable results. The D curve is for diesel fuel. Too much acetone will decrease mileage slightly due to adding too much octane to the fuel. Too much also upsets the mixture ratio because acetone (like alcohol) is a light molecule. Acetone helps the fuel become a vapor more easily inside the chamber and minimizes wasted fuel. All it does is offer total combustion of fuel in any kind of engine. The A curve is with a 1995 Neon. The B curve is with a 1986 GMC. The C curve is with two Caravans, 1990 and 1997.
After you find the righ t amount for your car per ten gallons, and you are happy with your newfound mileage, you may one day cease using acetone for a couple of tanks. Watch the drop in mileage. It will amaze you. That reverse technique is one of the biggest eye openers concerning the use of acetone in fuel. For example in recent weeks I stopped using acetone in my Neon. At a steady 50 MPH, my MPG delivered 48-52 per my ScanGauge averages. That was the maximum with acetone. Then the next four fills at half empty gradually came down to 43-44, 37-38, 33--34 and 30-31. The last is slightly higher than what the car delivered originally or 27-29. Same gas. The trouble with consistent mileage tests is the cold weather. This reverse test method will be repeated in the spring with new oil and some other additives in the acetone that I am working on. No trick mileage stuff was used in this particular exercise. Just straight Texaco 87-octane gasoline. The lesson here is to TEST, TEST and RETEST.
Complete vaporization of normal fuel is far from perfect in today's cars. A certain amount of fuel in most engines remains liquid in the hot chamber and slides past the rings into the oil. Of course the liquid fuel then ruins the rings and walls as it enters the crankcase to further damage the lubricating ability of the oil. In order to become a true gas and be fully combusted, fuel must undergo a phase change. Still, fuel needs a kick of some kind to transform from big globs into a full vapor. The acetone provides that kick with its rapid inherent molecular vibration that prevents fuel from escaping the combustion process and going through unburned. In the chart above, we see how little acetone in ten gallons it takes to help combust nearly all your fuel. Vacuum is the best friend your engine has to get your fuel fully vaporized. At part throttle the manifold vacuum reaches 20 to 25 inches of mercury. This important vacuum aids in breaking up the larger fuel particles and overcoming some of the disadvantages of surface tension. Remember a slight amount of heat amplifies the surface tension of the fuel molecules because the heat is spread across the outside of the large clumps of fuel. This draws the clumps and blobs tighter together. Just look how drops form. But a large amount of heat will not reach the inside molecules within many of the clumps.

Personally I'll stick to using acetone to remove my nail polish.....or washing out my polyester resin brushes.
I note too that acetone is the thinners for some aircraft paint...