Chain sharpeners

A file? Works for me.

Agreed. Have tried stone bit for drill as well as some other fancy drill bit. All rubbish and file is the best. Get a bit of time to use it, but once mastered it does not take too long to sharpen chain. Just make sure that it is special file and it has proper diameter suitable for your chain. Bunnings stock them.

Another vote for a file. You can do more damage much more quickly with an electric sharpener than with a file. I do touch ups with a file then every so often get a service place to sharpen it to get the angles back to where they should be. I have an electric version as well but no long use it. The grinding stones wear very quickly (therefore giving an incorrect bevel) and if you press too hard they break.

Adrian

ALL AGREE... yes a hand file

Got to a chainsaw shop that sells YOUR brand of chainsaw and ask them what SIZE file you need. Get at least two files of different brands, I use plastic handle as wood handle tends to turn and split. You can then go to Bun-nings and get the same size in various brands to see what type of handle you prefer to use, but you need the exact diameter file first.

I sharpen my chain at least a few, maybe 5 or 6 times a day... I use it to cut fire wood x trailer loads.
Don't let the chain get dull, it gets hot, causing bar wear and creates unwanted pressure on bearings and components as well as taking longer to cut the logs.

Every time I refuel or replenish the chain oil I run the file over the chain, it only takes a few minutes and saves time and money in saw repairs and you get to have a much deserved rest as well.

G'Day
i use my chain saw a lot, almost every weekend and i use a twelve volt hand grinder that i bought from stihl years ago clips directly to the battery terminals of the car and works a treat, it also has the guide marks on the tool and takes about 1 minute to sharpen the chain, bugger fiddling around with a 3/16 file

Pmacks

Gday,
husqvarna make a good set. It includes files, handle and a really good guide.
www.husqvarna.com.au/ ( File kit )

Ditto the Stihl sharpener. I used to use my saw in my business and used both a file and the electric sharpener.

I still have both and tend to take the file with me for the day, together with several spare chains. When I get back to the shed I put the saw with the bar in the vice and use the electric sharpener to redress the teeth and reset the height guides.

Pete

Hi Walter
Lash out and buy yourself a jig that clamps to the bar with full adjustments for angles and depth. I have used one for many many years and get perfect results every time. They are (or at least were when I bought mine) called "file n joint". Blunt chain saws are hard work.
Cheers
Peter

Oh Yet again I'm the lone dissenter.....I bought a guide that fits my 12vdc "rotary tool" (fake dremel), it does not use a grinding wheel in the conventional sense but uses a diamond impregnated burr. Cuts cleanly and outlasts the carborundum wheels and gives a superior edge which is what you want because a dull edge causes extra frictional losses. Can be used on the saw or used in a sharpening jig in a vise. Can be got in various diameters to suit different teeth.
I fully endorse and reccomend it & would never bother with a file again unless forced to.

file!

get a file and a bar holder for the file, electric ones will stuff your chain up. Dont listen to people who own the electric ones, it takes a little longer with a hand file but will be sharper and the chain will last 10 times longer. The electric ones get each blade too hot. Also you probably knew this but always sharpen your chain every fuel tank. Also change your bar around every now and then, then it wear the same.
Crawf

Firstly you need to know what size chain yours is, 1/4, 3.25 or 3/8.
Generally 1/4 chains are on small saws, 3.25 on medium and 3/8 on larger saws. For example in the stihl brand 009 has 1/4, 028 has 3.25 and 034< have 3/8. The really big saws can have 4.04 but not many of these around in the private market.
See the table below for file sizes.
Its also good to use a bench grinder to get the size of the cutter even on both sides so the saw doesn't cut on an angle.

1/4 chain 5/32 (4mm) file
.325 chain 5/32-3/16 (4.5mm) file
3/8LP chain 3/16 (4.7mm) file
3/8 standard chain 13/64 to 7/32 (5.5mm) file
.404 chain 7/32 to 1/4 (5.5 to 6mm) file

If you aren't sure of your chain size take the chain into your local mower/chain saw shop and say you want a file and guide for this chain.
Hope this helps
120scruiser

Ditto Hairy about the Husqvarna sharpening jig. It has rollers and fits snugly on the chain so your angle is set. All you need with it is the right size files (don't forget your rakers) and probably a clamp that drives into a log to hold your bar whilst sharpening.
Check it out.
Ave a great day

File with a guide ,,,, never go wrong ,,, just a few minutes and you are up and running, with a super sharp chain.

Problem is with rotary sharpeners they can butn going in and if you are lucky enuf to sharpen the chain you can burn the chain coming out, if not burn it you can dull off your good work ,,,, Too much hit & miss

Cheers
Bucky