Fanblades through radiiator of Prado

Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 07, 2007 at 23:46
ThreadID: 48518 Views:4676 Replies:11 FollowUps:19
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Hi We went up the Gibb River Road in the June wet and survived. After arriving in Kununurra we went for a drive and proceeded slowly over a very small creek and yes, put the fan blades thru the radiator. A question - Bagging the roo bar is a simple solution but what if you have to drive 100's of kilometres. Will it affect the temperature, performance etc... and if so, what are some other solutions? it was a very expensive mistake.
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Reply By: barney rubble - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 00:34

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 00:34
Gday pop a good question which ive thought of myself and done a bit of long distance wet stuff but should bagging be req providing the cooling system is in good working order the fan should be capable of keeping things cool as bagging is ussually only req whilst at low speed as fan blades are ussually only broken by hitting the water too fast Cheers
AnswerID: 256347

Follow Up By: Oldsquizzy (Kununurra) - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 00:40

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 00:40
Its not a question of breaking fan blades but one of how hot the engine is and if the fan is locked up. If the engine is given time to cool and the fan unlock it will stop when it hits water, When hot and locked it is like a propeller and drives through the water, Being plastic it bends under the weight and hits the radiator. Prados are a tad more prone to this as the blades are long.
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Reply By: Member - Bruce and Anne - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 07:24

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 07:24
I have thought about replacing the engine driven fan with a couple of electric fans, as a mate has done on his MU, might gain a little bit of power as well. But I keep forgetting about it as we do not see much wet stuff here in SE Qld.
Cheers Bruce.
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Reply By: PradoTrev - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:02

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:02
Hey Poppyg2

Im looking at a bash plate (going to get it from Total traction here in Adel but it is out of ATS in Gelong I think) which runs from the Toyota bar back to the first fuel tank. It has the hols located o drian oils etc and acts like a bag in the wet as well as deflecting rocks on the tracks.

Around $1100 installed willl ad some weight but i thinks it's worth it.

TM2CW

Regards Trevor
AnswerID: 256359

Follow Up By: Member - Brian H (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:59

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:59
Not knowing where you drive.... but would that bash plate cause spinifex to be trapped and hard to remove which may cause you greater issues?

Just a thought is all Trevor

Brian

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Reply By: George (NT) - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:32

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 08:32
Poppy

To stop fan blades from sucking in and cutting a hole in the radiator, fit a section WOVEN MESH against the radiator core between the cowling and the core.

Cheers

Willem (on George's computer)
AnswerID: 256364

Follow Up By: poppyg2 - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:17

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:17
Hi George (NT). It seems a very cheap option, but do you know if it has any long term effect on temp & performance as I tow a camper trailer? I am from Perth and would like a fairly permanent solution, so summer driving with the mesh may be a bit of a concern. The suggestion of putting fixed fans might also be viable but I could imagine the cost could be fairly high. Regards PoppyG
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Reply By: gbc - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:03

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:03
the fan doesn't actually drive foreward thru the water. The radiator core temporarity blocks with water and the fan drives foreward thru the vacuum that is created - apparently?

I had to engage an engineer to prove this for an insurance claim a while back. I won.

Screening with either of the above methods will work - willem's being the more permanent method.

AnswerID: 256370

Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 13:08

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 13:08
What !!!
I would love to learn more about your engineers theory, more details please.
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Follow Up By: robak (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 13:24

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 13:24
Sounds plausible at high fan speeds, but sooner or later the water's going to come through the radiator and make the situation worse.
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Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 13:59

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 13:59
Hi robak, There is and can never be a vacuum around the fan. Its the water acting as a solid and the fan turns into a screw and winds itself forward as far as the plastic allows. Shorter fan blades or more distance between the fan and radiator would help but not possible so, as previously mentioned, either allow the temp to go down and have the fan free wheeling or try and make a bow wave.
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Follow Up By: robak (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:11

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:11
Kiwi,
I agree with what you say that there cannot be a "vacum" and that the fan hitting the water could be catastorphic.

I couldn't really understand the "vacuum" concept at first, but if you think about it it makes sense.

A car runs into deep water. The wall of water hits the radiator. The flow of water though the radiator is A LOT slower then air. The fan keeps turning and pushes the air from in front oif it to behind it. This creates a pressure difference between the front and the rear of the fan, forcing the blades to bend forward. It's exactly the same concept as with water.

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FollowupID: 517635

Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 15:11

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 15:11
Sorry robak, it just can't happen in air. The fan is not confined at the sides or above in anyway. It's the 'solid' water that does the damage. It's the same with aircraft propellors, when a fan hits solid materials (including water) they react the same, they bend forward at the tips on impact (done one myself :((.
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Follow Up By: robak (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 15:27

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 15:27
never say never.
The force needed to bend the blades forward is the same for solid, liquid or gas.

In your "screw in a solid" concept. the fan can go as slow as.. well... a screw.

For the baldes to bend in a liquid, the fan would need to go a little faster. Fast enough to overcome the liquid seeping in on the sides and top.

With a gas the blades would need to turn fatser again to ovbercome the same issue.

While both air and water are a fluid and behave ina similar manner, the main differance between them, is that water cannot expand or contract the way that gas does. Which is why water works so well in destroying radiators. Air is nowhere near as good, but my guess is that it can happen

R.
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Reply By: Member -Signman - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:51

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 10:51
In my motor sport (rallying) days- we fitted a section of about 25mm square steell mesh flush onto the back of the radiator.This saved cavitation of the fan into the radiator while hitting creek crossings at high speed.
AnswerID: 256374

Reply By: gbc - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 13:30

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 13:30
Yeah Kia I know it sounds dodgy.

This engineer does forensic examinations for the insurance industry, and explained the phenomenon as if it happens everyday.

Fan in a shroud, and an area of low pressure forms in front of the fan when the radiator core gets temporarily blocked by the water. Fan still spinning and draws itself forward through the air and impacts the radiator.
AnswerID: 256402

Follow Up By: bob&loz - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:43

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:43
Shows how dumb some of these so called experts are and how courts can be mislead because the other side don't get someone to refute it. If there is a vacuum than by definition there is nothing there to exert any pressure on the blades. for the blades to climb forward they have to engage with something. a vacuum is nothing. (Maybe we should use propeller driven space ships )have a look at any fan damage and you will see it is always in the bottom where the fan hits the water. If his theory had any credence it would leave a mark evenly around the radiator
Bob
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Follow Up By: gbc - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:57

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 14:57
Dear Bob&Loz,

My damage was was across the top and down the right hand side in an arc.

Like I said, this bloke is an INSURANCE INVESTIGATOR - by nature he is on the other side. He trains motor assessors in what to look for.

I happened across him by pure luck.

I find your ability to extrapolate that reply from what was written utterly amazing - can't wait for the next one.
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Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 16:06

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 16:06
Hi Bob&loz,

I wouldn't be mentioning incorrect statements like "a Vacuum" etc as we are talking low pressure and high pressure differentials which "may" cause this effect.

An interesting take on the reason for this damage....sounds plausible, though it does lead to the question of someone having a tight-fitting tarp which could also cause this low pressure and thus the same problem? Maybe the forces generated aren't sufficient to cause enough deflection in that case?

Andrew
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Reply By: Footloose - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 14:44

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 14:44
Did my radiator in that way once, expensive, inconvenient and embarrassing.

Obviously you aren't going to be driving through when everythings hot, are you ? Otherwise you'll end up with water in your greasy bits. So take a rest to let things cool before entering.

One solution appears to be to have a hole drilled into one of the fan blades, and tie it to the chassis before entering with some stout string. Since the viscus fan shouldn't be engaged as the engine isn't very hot, there is no need for the fan.

I've never tried it, but others assure me it works.
The mesh between them sounds good to me.

AnswerID: 256411

Follow Up By: Richard W (NSW) - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 18:09

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 18:09
When I had my unresolved fan blade/radiator problem just tied the fan blade off without drilling a hole and used with a bit of rope to anchor the fan blade to each side of the engine bay. This worked OK.
I have now resolved the problem and don't need to do it any more.
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Reply By: poppyg2 - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 17:28

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 17:28
Hi again. Thanks for all the suggestions about stopping the fan blades going thru the radiator of the Prado, I have a lot to ponder to prevent another expensive mistake. PoppyG
AnswerID: 256442

Reply By: deserter - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 17:50

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 17:50
So is it a speed thing ?? If you poke through slowly is it still likely to happen. I ask this as my Prado goes to the Cape very soon.
AnswerID: 256446

Reply By: RobAck - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 18:31

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 18:31
Preparing a vehicle to drive through water deeper than wheel depth is a straightforward process. The key is to avoid water coming in through the radiator and/or up into the engine bay.

Most if not all modern 4WD have a viscout coupled fan that has plastic blades and these will flex when water hits them resulting in damage to the radiator. As the viscous coupling works when the oil is hot then the first thing to do is allow the vehicle to cool a little whilst you prepare for a water crossing.

If you are not going to fit a blind then take a piece of strong cord and tie it around where a fan blade connects to the hub of the coupling. There is normally a notch where the blade and hub join so it makes things easier. Fix the other end to something strong like and engine lifting point in the engine bay and make sure the chord does not foul anything. This prevents the fan from freewheeling and reduces the risk of the blades spinning and geting bent into the radiator by water.

Turn the engine on, engage low range second gear then drive through the water at a pace that puts out a bow wave. Too fast and you still end up with problems. Get to the other side, switch off the engine remove the chord and move on again.

I hope that explains the process we train people to

Regards

RobA
AnswerID: 256468

Follow Up By: poppyg2 - Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 20:40

Wednesday, Aug 08, 2007 at 20:40
Hi. I was going about 5 - 10 KPH max and the water was about half way up the wheel. The problem we had on the Gibb River Rd was about 300 kms of gravel, creeks, mud, rivers and wheel deep water (and very little traction). The engine was hot because we were pulling a camper trailer and 3 adults. I think your suggestion is good but I would be tying & untying the rope every 10 mins or so. I think I will try the bag & string first and if not successful will have to go for the more solutions as we intend doing more beach and wet trips in the near future. Mark.
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike_L (SA) - Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 20:58

Thursday, Aug 09, 2007 at 20:58
"I was going about 5 - 10 KPH max and the water was about half way up the wheel."

??? Water at hub depth...that means it was at or below the bottom of your radiator!! Very hard to believe that caused the damage! Sure your radiator mounts are/were secure?

Maybe the water was deeper than you thought?

What model Prado do you have? not a 120 series with factory bull bar is it? If so, fit a radiator protection plate between the bar and chassis to protect the radiator.

Mick
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Follow Up By: Richard W (NSW) - Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 06:23

Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 06:23
These were the conditions when it happened to me for the second time. Luckily the second time the fan only marked the radiator and didn't cut into the core.
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Follow Up By: poppyg2 - Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 10:38

Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 10:38
I own a 90 series with Toyota factory bull bar and the water was half way up the hub at max. If I can work out how to post a photo I will show the depth of water. Maybe I was going faster than I thought, though I was conscience of crossing creeks and rivers after negotiating hundreds on the Gibb River Rd without any problems. It was a warm day around 28 - 30, so maybe it was an unllucky chain of events, albeit a very expensive and embrassing outcome. PoppyG
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike_L (SA) - Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 23:30

Friday, Aug 10, 2007 at 23:30
Well guys, I must say I am surprised, I always thought I was safe not using a tarp at depths around hub height (which is around factory spec wading depth). I got a bit lazy on a recent trip in Tas and did one short crossing were the water was deep enough to rush over the bonnet without issue.

I must be more cautious in the future...it's easy to become complacent I guess.

Maybe the water rushed up between the bar and radiator from underneath? hence my thinking you may not have a protection plate in this area? (Toyota factory alloy bars lack in this area.)

Mick
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Follow Up By: Richard W (NSW) - Saturday, Aug 11, 2007 at 07:42

Saturday, Aug 11, 2007 at 07:42
We nailed mine down to a gap between the bash plate and the bottom of the radiator. This was created when my front diff was dropped as part of the suspension modification. The gap has now been closed and I haven't had any further problems.
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