Electric windows

Agree on the kids thing Mike....one thing I like about the wife's commadoor that I don't like about the nissan is the auto up/down on the drivers window. the commadoor will only go down at the touch of the button, the Nissan will go up with one flick, possibly trapping the child out of reach of the button.

Keys out is a good thing. I would like them to work on acc rather than the ign on, but keys out no drama's (with windows or a joyride)

Cheers Andrew

By taking a permanent 12V feed to the electric windows I can see no reason why it wouldn't "backfeed" through the windows fuse to all other equipment which is isolated at the same time as the windows ie. you are defeating the accessory and/or the ignition switch - I don't know how Nissan wires them? The fact that you have a mystery 2 amps being used would appear to support this.

Doing the above may or may not cause problems with the electrical system of the vehicle - without doing a full analysis it's impossible to say. To do this properly you should fit a diode or automatic isolating relay to prevent backfeed - if you use a diode... make it a _big_ one.

Personally I'd just leave the system as it is.

Mike Harding

Quite correct Mike, hence why I shorted out the original fuse so no feedback would occur.

I did state above that my description above was "put simply" so you could get an idea of the mod. I also said I could send a word doc describing the lot for those interested...

As for the mystery 2 amps - it is only from the power windows and i checked this before doing the mod. Note that it may be far less than 2 amps, but it is not small enough to be inconsequential. I did this years ago and going from memory here.

Cheers mate

Captain

Thank you ! !

I'd like to know the best way to rob a bank?

What you need Mike is a set of the banks "blueprints". These are quite easy to come by if the movies are correct. Now once you have them, you'll notice they will have invariably built the vault above some sort of stormwater pipe, large enough to get some heavy equipment into. You wait till they go home for the day, set off the alarms a couple of times, so they think it's the system playing up and turn the alarm system off then you bore up through the bottom of the vault and make off with the millions and millions of dolalrs they will undoubtably be in there! :-)

And you're welcome for the help! ;-)

Cheers
Scoey!

Yes

Mr Harding ! I know what your up to:-

You want a Mike Doll R & D'd just like the Boonie and Warnie dolls, only that yours will be full of 'social engineering pins'.

Keep this type of talk up and you will have taken the heat completely off of me and Willem as well.

Go! Mike

Lucy,
Taken what heat off???
Doesnt have anything with you doing 100km in a 40km zone showing no respect to on comming traffic and endangering yourself and all other motorists on the road (even if there isnt any)...Does it? HaHaHaHaHa
Cheers

Having worked on the software (and hardware) for one of the major alarm system in Europe, the USA and here (think I still have the source code somewhere) I don't think the alarm system will be a problem - so all I need now is someone who knows how to overcome the physical locks on the vaults - any takers?

Mike Harding

Hairy

Shoosh! will you - the 'scrooby-ites' are looking elsewhere at the moment (LOL)

Also its a matter of pure subjective conjecture attempting to describe what I was doing, when sedately driving my motor at a 100kph.

Why is it that when someone asks a question about how to do something, and then a reply is posted about possible consequences of doing it that the average person wouldn't have thought of, we will see a post questioning the need for the "off-topic" additional information ????

Because thats 'Show Biz' and there is no prize for seconds.

Argh depends if it is a glass relocker or standard, you can't just fill them with water as they leak the trusty safes!!! you could try a core drill or maybe some thermit!!!

Mike (H) and Chris (P)

Arrrh! when you two have figured out a plan, let me know and I may 'invest' in it LOL

Ooops! - should read 'business Plan'

Yep, I'm interested in that.

Pse email to me.

GeeTee

Couldn’t get the PM to work so will post it here.

The mod is fairly straight forward, cut wire A, join to wire B, all done in the control panel that your right knee rests on. This provides (key off) power to only the driver’s side control panel.

This way I can leave a couple of the windows down a bit, but keep the drivers window all the way up for added security from button pressers.

Any Autolec will be able to work it out in 2 minutes flat. (Whole job takes under twenty minutes) the description below should assist anyone who would be able to nut it out anyway.

The padded part of the arm rest clips off, this exposes some screw so that you can remove the top of the concole. Flip the console over so that you are viewing it from the under side. (It will be sort of hanging on the wiring loom anyway)

Now I assume that you are now standing beside the open door facing forward, looking at the underside of the concole.

Starting at the top left of the main plug the third position to the right should be a white wire with a black stripe this is your power wire (one of the thicker wires) Check and confirm with a test light that you have power when the key is off. You need to splice into this wire to pick up power and connect it to the wires identified below. (Leave a tail about 4 inches long)

Starting at the bottom left of the same plug the forth position to the right (Red wire with yellow stripe, thin wire.) and the fifth position (All white wire, thick)
These two wires need to be cut and joined together (on the plug side) along with the tail from the power wire above.

The two remaining cut wires that disappear into the loom remain unjoined and can be taped up and tucked away neatly.

I soldered all my joins, but I will leave it up to you how to make the connection.

Have fun
Spinifex


Quote
It was easy to follow when I did it to my 2000 GU. By the way.....as far as splicing into the power wire is concerned, what I did was to use a sharp scalpal and make 2 cuts around the insulation, about 3mm apart. I then cut the insulation between the 2 circular cuts and peeled off that small bit of insulation. It was then just a case of winding the bared end of the 4" long extra wire around this power wire and soldering it. (I HATE those "scotch-locks" thingos with a passion, but you could use one of them to do the job if you like). I then joined all 3 wires together and soldered the joint. Cover the bared ends with either insulation tape or use liquid insulation tape (from Jaycar etc). End quote

Could I also have a word doc for the mod too please, Some cars like Commodores have power to windows 10 or so seconds after key is turned off, They must have some type of delayed power source

Cheers

It's probably via CANbus control - I _strongly_ suggest you don't mess with it.

CANbus

Mike Harding

No it isn't. You need to look a little more carefully at the law surrounding ownership of software when one is not an employee of the company/person commissioning that software and specific agreements have not been signed between the parties (which they often aren't) apportioning ownership to the commissioner. I own an awful lot more software than many people realise.

Mike Harding