Deep cycle batteries

Submitted: Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 16:52
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I know this subject has been flogged to death already ..but im looking to buy and new deep cycle battery 100 ah Before the big trip which by the way is now beginning in dec so hope to avoid heat in top end (anyone who read my prev post will know what im on about)and was wondering if anyone had anything new to offer ie: any reasonably priced new batteries and which ones might be duds to avoid thanks for your help as always Beau
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Reply By: TerraFirma - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 17:14

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 17:14
120AH AGM batteries by Fullriver are around $260 from memory, couldn't get much better than that, bearing in mind the weight of around 35KG. There are also some Remco 100AH AGM batteries for around the same price.
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Follow Up By: nthshorelad - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 18:29

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 18:29
the fullriver sounds good any idea where to get one in sydney?
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Follow Up By: PeterInSA - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 18:54

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 18:54
I would definitely buy a 120AH battery rather than the 100AH unit, if you can take the extra weight. You should also have an automatic cutout unit so if the battery voltage goes below 11.5 volts the load is cut off.

My understanding is that if a deep cycle battery goes below 11.5 volts (from memory,however it may be 10.5) for more than 4 hours its life is severely shortened, and it can NEVER be fully charged again..
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:10

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:10
Close but not exactly. If you do a search there is a post I made about six months ago detailing some controlled analysis of AGMs I undertook for a client.

Most manufacturers recommend not discharging a lead acid battery below 10V5 (they sometimes show curves down to 9V0 or so but it’s not a good idea). Basically the less you discharge a battery each time you use it the greater it’s life will be. iirc the tests I did showed the batteries I tested surrendered only about 2% of their energy between 11V0 and 10V5 and about 20% between 11V5 and 11V. My conclusion is that it is never worth taking a battery below 11V0 and rarely worth taking it below 11V5.

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: PeterInSA - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:29

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:29
Mike,
I run a electronic health device thru the night off an inverter. Sometimes when the 100AH Battery is not up to scratch the cut out beeps a few times indicating that 11.5 volts has been reached and that it is going to drop off the load, (the inverter and health device).

The inverter in the front boot stops. About 2 minutes later the battery voltage must rise to say 12 volts the inverter fires up everything is go for another two minutes, then Beep/Beep the cycle repeats itself ie cuts off/fires up. and again Beep Beep. By this time I get out of bed in my PJ's unlock the front boot and turn the inverter off and go back to bed.

I ensure the battery is fully charged before the next nightfall.

Peter
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:38

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:38
The recovery process of a lead acid battery, which you describe, once it's load has been removed, is quite normal and it's simply unfortunate your inverter doesn't "latch" the low battery condition - I doubt many of them do - however with a 100Ah battery if you ensure it's charged regularly it should see most devices through the night without problems.

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 21:59

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 21:59
If you only want to save some money now buy a Fullriver battery.
If you want a "better" battery power supply - buy Remco.
(I don't cel Remco Grr)
Depends on your budget as to how good a system you want or need.
How will you recharge this 'battery'

Why not consider two identical 100AH AGM's in parallel.
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Follow Up By: Member - RFLundgren (WA) - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:25

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:25
I went from a wet cel to a Fullriver AGM and couldnt be happier. It did take some searching to find what I wanted here in Perth though. Have only done one trip with it so far, but it happily runs a 90 litre Waeco, inverter, HF radio for at least 2 days with no driving.

Cheers

Richard

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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 09:32

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 09:32
Hi Richard

You don’t say what size battery but let’s do some “back of fag packet” calculations:

90lt fridge draws 5A? say 30% duty cycle = (48 * 0.3) * 5 = 72Ah
HF radio – 20A in Tx, 1A in Rx - say listening for 2 hrs per day = 4Ah
Inverter – what’s it driving? Say 3A for 3 hrs per day = 18Ah

So you’re using something in the region of 94Ah from your battery over a two day period. Regularly discharging a lead acid battery (AGM is lead acid) below about 70% of it’s capacity will shorten it’s life significantly. Regularly discharging one to 50% will reduce the number of charge/discharge cycles it will produce to, perhaps, as low as 100 or 200! So unless your battery is around 240Ah I suggest you recharge it daily.

Mike Harding

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Follow Up By: Member - RFLundgren (WA) - Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 02:13

Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 02:13
Mike

Thanks for the information, and in the majority of cases it does in fact get charged daily. Will have to check what the fridge does actually draw.

Can you explain to me some things about the battery. If it is rated at 12 volts, then at what point is the battery at full charge, 50% charge etc. I have never really had that explained to me. When it is charging it reads between 13.9 and 14.1 on the voltmeter (currently only getting this figure from the codan display which is connected to the DC battery. I do have a "proper meter to go in for monitoring purposes, just havent had the time as yet to install it). At rest it seems to be between 12.9 and 12.5, so if you could explain all this to me it would be most appreciated.

Cheers

Richard

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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 09:48

Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 09:48
Hi Richard

Measuring the terminal voltage of a lead acid battery is, actually, a very poor way of determining it’s state of charge however it’s about the only option we have with sealed batteries in everyday situations.

A 12V battery is at full charge when it’s terminal voltage is about 12V6 or above and it has stood for at least two hours since being charged. If you measure the voltage immediately after removing the battery from charge the reading will be incorrect (probably about 13V5 or more) because of a condition known as “surface charge” which is a kind of false charge – we’re into chemistry here which is _not_ my subject :) – maybe someone else can explain surface charge?

50% charge is rather harder to quantify from terminal voltage alone but as a rule of thumb around 11V5 would equate to it.

Charging: there are two basic methods of charging lead acid batteries; cyclic charge and float charge. Float charge is used for batteries in application such as fire panels where the battery is seldom used but needs to be at full charge if it is required. Float charge requires a constant voltage of approx 13V8 is permanently supplied to the battery. This is the ideal condition to store a battery in if you will not be using it for some months. Cyclic charge is used in applications where the battery is frequently discharged by a significant amount, say 20% or more and requires a constant voltage of around 14V4 from a charger with sufficient current capability to recharge the battery in an acceptable time frame. Once the battery has reached full charge (from a cyclic charger) it is _essential_ that the charge voltage is removed or reduced to a float charge level. Failure to do this will significantly shorten the life of the battery.

Probably the best way of determining when a battery is fully charged is to measure the current being supplied to the battery from a charger, when that current reaches a minimum value (depends on the battery but 100mA or less is good) and remains there for an hour or so the battery is fully charged.

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: Member - RFLundgren (WA) - Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 22:09

Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 22:09
Mike

Thanks for the information. As yet I have not had my battery below 12V as far as I am aware. I usually only run my fridge on about 1 (old waeco) which is plenty cold enough. HF is generally only on when driving and for maybe ah hour at camp receive only.

When I get the chance I will get the monitor rigged and have a much better idea of what both of my batteries are doing.

Cheers

Richard

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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 22:21

Friday, Oct 26, 2007 at 22:21
Richard,
Another rationalization of 12v Battery "State of Charge" is presented below:

LINK: 12 Volt Battery State of Charge

It nominates the following as being representative of SOC

* Wet Cell battery

12.65 Volts = 100 % State of Charge
12.24 Volts = 50 % State of Charge
11.89 Volts = 0 % State of Charge

* AGM battery

12.80 Volts = 100 % State of Charge
12.40 Volts = 50 % State of Charge
11.80 Volts = 0 % State of Charge


It can be clearly seen why AGM batteries are so efficient when compared to Wet Cell batteries at powering high drain Accessories like fridge's.

I believe it should make any “thinking” man (or woman) question why they would allow their 12v Battery to be discharged below the commonly nominated MINIUM 50 % SOC (~12.2v) as recommended by all manufacturers of 12v Batteries, and then ask why most battery disconnect devices or cut-out switch’s are set to much lesser values, some as low as only 10.5 Volts ?


(the above information which is for reference only - is NOT the credence of the author)
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Reply By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:28

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:28
Beau ,
I was sent this info from a good mechanic in WA .



AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) batteries have huge advantages over conventional deep cycle batteries in most circumstances, but which one will best suit your needs?

Hopefully with all the reading and research you have done you will have come to an understanding that deep cycle batteries are the way to go when it comes to auxiliary batteries, but for some people AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) batteries will have a huge advantage over the conventional wet cell deep cycle battery.

Although this will get a little long winded, it’s well worth understanding the virtues of both types of batteries, and how you can put them to best use, I won’t go deeply into the technical details of these batteries, just point out some of their advantages, and why.

Basically it starts with how you intend to recharge your batteries, I am talking about your main recharging source here.

If you are going to be using any of the smart charging solutions, like solar panels and a quality smart regulator, or a smart 3 stage mains (240v) battery charger, or the Christie Honda petrol charger (set to hi charge), then in most cases the conventional wet cell deep cycle battery will serve you well.

If treated correctly (and few are) conventional deep cycle batteries can outlast AGM’s, but only if they are well maintained and cycled within their design perimeters, with both correct discharging/charging and equalising (now that a whole other story) and with keeping electrolyte (water) levels up.

However if your main source of charging is from your vehicles alternator, or you need to place the batteries in places that are less than optimum for safe battery storage, keeping in mind that wet cell batteries give of hydrogen (explosive) gas as they are charging, then you should consider using AGM batteries as they are totally sealed and spill proof.

Did you know that if our good quality wet deep cycle batteries have been discharged fairly deeply, it can take 8-12 hours of continuous engine running to achieve just 70-80% charge?

A bit about Alternators.

Standard car and truck alternators are designed, for various good reasons to recharge car batteries to only 70-80%, and this works very well for normal cars and trucks, but when it comes to charging our storage batteries, where of course we need as full a charge as possible, that same 70-80% is not very helpful at all.

Really, standard alternators are designed primarily to top up quickly the surprisingly small amount of energy that is removed from the battery by the starter-motor on engine start up, and then to keep up with all your accessories, radios, head lights etc, they were never designed to recharge deeply discharged batteries, and they fall short in this area unless modified or replaced with a specialised charging alternator, and smart multi stage regulator.

Automotive battery chargers suffer from much the same less than perfect regulation as car alternators, and achieve much the same results, and take a much much longer time to do it.

As an example lets imagine you have a 100 A/H(Amp Hour) battery, and you main charging source is you vehicles alternator or a standard automotive battery charger, now both of these will only charge this battery to about 75% (75 A/H), and you should not discharge your batteries below 50% (50 A/H in this case) of their capacity (see note below) if you want them to last, so all you can really safely use of this 100 A/H battery is 25 A/H, not much eh?



Note. Have you heard that you can drain deep cycle batteries all the way down, and then recharge them?

Have you been told that this is what deep cycle batteries are all about?

I hear this almost everyday that people have been told this, and by some battery sales people that should know better.

This line of thinking is totally wrong.

All conventional deep cycle battery manufactures say that their batteries are designed to be cycled to 50% of their rated capacity!

So each and every time you take these batteries below this 50% you are shortening their lives, and if you do it regularly and deeply you will even more dramatically reduce their lives.



Ok OK !! I can hear the cry's from here "but I get many more amp hours out of my deep cycle battery than what you say I can!".

The truth is that most people discharge their batteries far too low, way down until their fridges cut out, or their lights start to dim (does this remind you of anyone ??), at this point they have discharged their batteries so low that they are doing serious damage to their batteries, and consequently won't get anywhere near the life out of their batteries that they could and should normally expect if the batteries were cycled within their design perimeters.

Now remember the 100 A/H battery with only 25 A/H useable? A huge gain can be had if you are using any of the smart charging solutions, like solar panels and a quality smart regulator, or a smart 3 stage mains (240v) battery charger, or the Christie Honda petrol charger (set to hi charge), you can expect close to 100% (100 A/H) charge,

So 100 A/H capacity, discharge to 50% (50 A/H), that’s now 50 A/H useable, twice what you had before!

Now lets look at some of the direct advantages of these AGM batteries.

these batteries are totally sealed, ‘transport’ classed as spill proof, never needing topping up with water, ever!

because of this they can be mounted inside a car, caravan, motorhome etc and only need to be vented to atmosphere, they do not need to be in a sealed box vented to the outside like wet batteries, and can be mounted on their sides or ends if needed.

because of their very low internal resistance these batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and fast too, in about 2.5 to 3 hours!

they can be discharged much much deeper than conventional deep cycles without major damage.

these batteries when left unattended only self discharge at the rate of up to 3% per month, and even after 12 months sitting idle can be recharged and put back into full service without any ill effects. On the other hand a standard deep cycle battery if treated the same way will have destroyed it's self, it will no longer hold a good charge, and is sadly ready for the rubbish tip and recycling, not cycling!

AGM batteries were originally developed for the military, they are very robust and will take a real pounding.

The original AGM batteries were made in the US, brands like Odyssey, Concord, Lifeline, all excellent batteries, used extensively also in the aircraft and in the motor racing fields, but hugely expensive, there are now a lot of these (AGM) types of batteries coming out of China, and some are just rubbish.

My battery supplier (ALCO Battery Sales Australia) has found a couple of company's over in China that has been in production for many years, and have been selling batteries into the European market for a long time and have built up very good reputations, ALCO now import these batteries into Australia and are selling them through their own outlets and dealers like myself.

These AGM valve regulated batteries (also called SLA or Sealed Lead Acid) offer very good value, and when compared to standard deep cycle batteries in a dollar per useable amp hour format, they come out miles ahead, plus all the added advantages that I have already outlined, but there is still more.



Lets look at it in dollars and cents.

Using a 100 A/H deep cycle Trojan (the best), my price $295.
Useable capacity if charged with smart charging system............................ say 50 A/H, cost $5.90 per A/H

Useable capacity if charged from the alternator or auto charger only........say 25 A/H, cost $11.80 per A/H

Using a 120 A/H AGM Battery, my price $395.

Useable capacity if charged with anything.............................................. lets say 100 A/H, cost $3.95 Per A/H


Now lets look at the space saving

Lets say you needed 100 A/H useable capacity from your batteries, and your main charging system was from the vehicles alternator.

Now with conventional deep cycle batteries because you would only have 25% of your battery bank useable you would need 400 A/H of battery bank, now there are a few ways you could do this, but the least expensive way would be four x 225A/H 6 volt Trojan batteries at a cost of $1,000.

Now with AGM batteries you could have just two x 90 A/H giving you 180 A/H total, so there is your 100 A/H with plenty in reserve, and only 2 batteries at a cost of $680 all up.

So with space and money saved, and with the many other advantages of AGM batteries, they really are a very good option for most people.
Personally I will never muck about with messy, cantankerous, wet cell batteries ever again for my own needs.

I have Fullriver and ALCO branded AGM batteries in various sizes.

12V 7.5A/H 151mm Long 65mm Wide 95mm High @ 2.73Kg and priced at $35.00.

12V 12A/H 151mm Long 99mm Wide 95mm High @ 4.20Kg and priced at $55.00.

12V 20A/H 181mm Long 77mm Wide 167mm High @ 6.44Kg and priced at $95.00.

12V 33A/H 196mm Long 131mm Wide 155mm High @ 11.00Kg and priced at $145.00.

12V 45A/H 198mm Long 166mm Wide 174mm High @ 15.00Kg and priced at $200.00.

12V 60A/H 229mm Long 138mm Wide 212mm High @ 18.30Kg and priced at $260.00.

12V 80A/H 260mm Long 170mm Wide 215mm High @ 28.50Kg and priced at $320.00.

12V 90A/H 307mm Long 169mm Wide 215mm High @ 30.60Kg and priced at $340.00.

12V 120A/H 331mm Long 175mm Wide 220mm High @ 35.00Kg and priced at $395.00.

12V 200A/H 530mm Long 209mm Wide 220mm High @ 65.50Kg and priced at $695.00.

12V 260A/H 521mm Long 269mm Wide 225mm High @ 89.00Kg and priced at $890.00.

Note...sizes listed are approximate, please check with us for exact sizes

I have a deal with my battery supplier who has outlets in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne and a few other places in between, so I can ship these batteries from any of these outlets, and offer these batteries to you for much less than you would have to pay for them over the counter, works for me ;-)

Please email me if you need help sizing up your battery requirements

Please note, my comments in this article are for batteries that are to be used in recreational vehicles etc, and are used for the odd weekend away and a few weeks a year, AGM's used in this way have a design life of 5 to 8 years.
However if you need a battery bank that will be in constant daily discharge cycle use all year round, then your battery bank should be sized so that your daily depth of discharge is about 20 to 25%, this applies to all types of deep cycle batteries if you want them to last for many years

Val Rigoli
Fridge & Solar

Internet orders welcome
we freight all our products Australia wide
If you would like to place an order please go to our >>ORDER page<<


I can only hope it is all correct - I have no knowledge on the batteries .

Cheers ,

Willie
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:45

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:45
I can only hope you find a better mechanic Willie.

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: Geoff M (QLD) - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:08

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:08
Mike Harding ..... I can only agree with you 100%.

There is so much B/S on batteries out there ( specifically on the internet) it's just a joke.

If you really want to understand DC batteries, then I suggest a read of Collyn River's publications (Site Link) or do some research through various universities.

Geoff
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:25

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:25
Mike ,
would you be kind enough to tell me where the BS is in this .
Thanks ,
Willie .
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:41

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 20:41
Hi Willie

Sorry but no.

I am fed up with posting to this forum about electrical things and constantly trying to counter statements from people who have little knowledge of what they're talking about.

There are, clearly, half a dozen or so experts in these areas who now post to this forum and I suggest you, and others, take heed from these people and ignore the "Internet Experts".

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 21:38

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 21:38
Willie the statistics you've shown are extremely broad & certainly don't reflect real life experience, particually in my case.
I use 130ah Trojan batteries which in the real world recently cost me $230 each. After camping for a few days, a 4 to 5 hour drive charging solely off the altenator brings my batteries up to around 85% (measured by volts & hydrometer). I regually discharge to 30% and a few times have accidentally discharged to 10% yet on the last pair of batteries have got almost 5 years out of them.
So the numbers.......
130 ah......charged to approx 110 ah (85%)......usable capacity 77ah (70%)......Cost $230... =$3 per ah.
Hey look, cheaper than an AGM ;-)

Cheers Craig.............
Twin 130ah Trojan batts.
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 22:27

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 22:27
Thanks Craig ,
Mike had time to poo poo it , but did not want to waste his time telling me the facts .
Willie .
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Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 10:37

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 10:37
"Standard car and truck alternators are designed, for various good reasons to recharge car batteries to only 70-80%,"

Twenty years ago yes, with modern Alternators, no.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 16:43

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 16:43
IMO to suggest.... "Standard car and truck alternators are designed, for various good reasons to recharge car batteries to only 70-80%"
...... is totally wrong !!

This message implies ALL batteries would therefore be less than 100% charged, UNLESS charged by Solar, or some form of "smart charger"



What voltage is a 12v (wetcel) battery when "70% charged" ???
70% of what . . . the total voltage ??

When 100% charged a wetcel battery is . . . 12.66 Volts !!!
70% charged is therefore only about . . . 9 Volts ?
(with-out the benefit of a calculator)



To check, measure the VOLTAGE of your (wetcel) battery, charged ONLY by an Alternator, you may be amazed to see it's close to 12.6 Volts... AT REST, if it's in reasonable condition and even allowing for some parasitic load.

Yes, some-how it's close enough to 100% charged by the Alternator, no-where near 70% or 80% charged
As they say 'miracles (obviously) do happen'

In the 21st century it's normal to have a "fully charged" battery, that's the sole reason the Alternator has a voltage "REGULATOR" inbuilt or externally fitted to maintain the battery at 100% charged, not over-charged or even under-charged.

My Alternator is only 55 Amps, the "modified" external 'voltage regulator' delivers 14+ Volts, this actually fully charges all 3 x DC batteries, when driving.

I know this because my 2 x AGM's voltages are shown on a digital LCD gauge and if they get below 12.8 Volt I (always) want to know why !!


As Mike DID says in 4 of 7 be aware of .............................
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 17:44

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 17:44
>Mike had time to poo poo it , but did not want to waste
>his time telling me the facts .
>Willie .

You’re being rather disingenuous to me there Willie – I have made more posts to this forum regarding batteries and things electrical than you could poke a stick at. The information I posted above cost someone $8600 – this forum got it for free, just not the brands of battery tested. This is an area I understand well and I have always made my knowledge freely available – in e-mail on many occasions as well as on the forum.

You posted a lengthy piece of pseudo technical drivel which is readily found on the internet; how long did it take you to do that? Two minutes? Yet, despite the fact that if you chose to search the archives of this forum you would find many posts by me and others which refute much of your post, you expect me to spend around an hour or more going through it, finding the errors, quantifying them and obtaining internet sources and links to support my statements and explaining the whole thing in a way non-technical people can understand.

I’ll help out as much as I can Willie but I’m not prepared, or should be expected by posters here, to waste large chunks of my time overturning 2000 words people cut and paste from some nebulous internet source.

Mike Harding

mike_harding@fastmail.fm
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 18:49

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 18:49
Mike ,

Disingenuous , hardly ? I'm discombobulated by your dissemination and must lodge my disaffirmation .

Let me disambiguate our readers on this .You have disembogued a 19 line post to disabuse me , telling all what a great guy you are answering people's electrical queries . However , you had no time to answer the simple question I asked you before , or explain why you wouldn't .

Your post is both disputatious and dissymetric .

I am sorry to have earned your disapprobation and to have wasted your obviously extremely valuable time .

Willie
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 18:59

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 18:59
Bye Willie.
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 19:21

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 19:21
Bye Mike
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 20:12

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 20:12
Willey,
In Mike’s defence, and that does not imply he needs any defence at all
you posted: “was sent this info from a GOOD MECHANIC in WA”
so how come it nominates a Company and contact information from the Eastern States?
...It's just advertising BLURB - to sell Fullriver batteries !

You then sign off by typing....
“I can only hope it is all correct - I have no knowledge on the batteries.
Cheers, Willie”


As I have pointed out the information you posted is obviously not totally correct

so now where do you stand ?

Do the battery test, see if YOUR battery is only (70%) ~9 Volts
Then you will be able to truly judge of the honesty in advertising

Stay cool :-)
You shouldn't expect people to fully explain the complete technical workings of everything to you, some people do that many times a day, and they get paid heaps for it, because it's accurate, precise and to the point.
(and very often too technical for those, as you say 'with no battery knowledge' to even understand)

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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 20:55

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 20:55
Mainey ,

I thought "I can only hope it is all correct - I have no knowledge on the batteries" was pretty self explanatory for the average intellect , but I will explain it for you . I thought the article may have been of some help , but having no knowledge of electrical things , I thought I had better add that qualification .

“was sent this info from a GOOD MECHANIC in WA”
The guy who sent it to me , is a tagalong operator who IS a good mechanic . It looks like he is not a good electrical mechanic though .

"so how come it nominates a Company and contact information from the Eastern States?"
The tagalong guy probably just read it on the internet site and thought it looked like good information . That's not too complicated for you is it Mainey.

"so now where do you stand ?"
I appreciated your informative post telling me of the problems with the Fridge and Solar article , but I sit in front of this computer tonight and wonder why you posted this latest piece of inarticulate rubbish - that's where I "stand" .

Willie



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Follow Up By: Brew69(SA) - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 21:02

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 21:02
My mother always told me............if you have nothing nice to say then say nothing.

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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 21:28

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 21:28
Willey,
I'm sorry you feel my last post was a "piece of inarticulate rubbish" I understand all the words, they are not miss-spelt, mumbled or inarticulate, but as I said some things are just " very often too technical for those, as you say 'with no battery knowledge' to even understand "

Bye Willey.
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Follow Up By: Member - Willie , Epping .Syd. - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 22:14

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 22:14
Could you just get my name right at least .
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FollowupID: 530753

Reply By: nthshorelad - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:59

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 19:59
thank you for your very thorough and informative responses ill be using a smart charger to recharge battery ... but have to find where to get it from first $260 is good price for 120 ah fullriver if you could tell me where to buy it from....i have seen agm from bfc for $289 100 ah was thinking of buying but would like to try fullriver if someone can tell me where to get one at that price
thanks beau
AnswerID: 268019

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 22:12

Tuesday, Oct 23, 2007 at 22:12
Beau,
Maybe look in yellow pages under battery ??

ask the company if they sell other brands of AGM's, and IF they say yes, ask them the difference in price, then ask WHY the differencs in price.

If your then happy to buy the Fullriver battery you know it's because you have made the decision based on 'good' information.

Ask them why Concorde & Lifeline batteries are more expencive
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FollowupID: 530512

Reply By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 17:02

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 17:02
I just bought a 130ah US series US Battery from Battery World.

The guy told me they are the ducks guts in Deep Cycle batteries, they better be at $360.

I will use this solely for a 68 lt Eva Kool Fridge and charge it with my gen-set and charger, He all so told me my 100 series could charge my 55 ah generic brand deep cycle set up in series with my normal battery.

The 55 ah is for my old Engel I will use as a freezer.

Cheers Steve.
AnswerID: 268153

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 23:32

Wednesday, Oct 24, 2007 at 23:32
"He all so told me my 100 series could charge my 55 ah generic brand deep cycle set up in series with my normal battery. "

- but a 24 volt Alternator is most unusual. Charging non-identical batteries in series is definitely NOT recommended.
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FollowupID: 530757

Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:40

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:40
I never mentioned a 24 volt Alternator.

Why would a man that sells Batteries for a living, tell me I can charge that battery as suggested if its not a good idea.

He was more than informative and answered all my questions.

It really annoys me when someone posts an answer that contradicts someone and then doesn't tell you why.

Cheers Steve.
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FollowupID: 530774

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:49

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:49
I've had 35 years experience in designing electrical systems, but if someone tells me to charge two lead-acid batteries in series, I know their knowledge is seriously lacking.

It annoys me when people pass on information, without checking on the accuracy of the information.
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FollowupID: 530778

Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:53

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 07:53
Would it be possible to tell me why please.

Steve.
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FollowupID: 530779

Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:40

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:40
When you connect two batteries in SERIES, you connect the Negative of one battery to the Postive of the other.

a) If these are both 12 volt batteries, then you will need 24 volts to charge them, hence the comment about a 24 volt Alternator.

b) When you charge two batteries in Series, you force the same current through both. If one battery is nearly full and one nearly empty, it will be impossible the charge the nearly empty one without damaging the nearly full one (assuming they are Lead Acid)

Did he mean to connect them in PARALLEL - connect Positive to Positiev and Negative to Negative.
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FollowupID: 530789

Follow Up By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:47

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 08:47
Thats what I meant, I asked him if it was possible to charge it in series as thats what I thought it was, he asked me if it was positive to positive etc and i said yes.

From now on I will use the correct term and call it parallel.

Thank you

Steve.
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FollowupID: 530791

Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 12:54

Thursday, Oct 25, 2007 at 12:54
Steve,
A way to remember;
‘SERIES’ gives you higher ( serious ) Voltage

‘PARALLEL’ will only give you higher Amps

And after all, that's what is generally required to run any power hungry appliance ..
.. double the Amps
(not double the Voltage)

Example:
as with all dual battery systems, you still have only 12 Volts with the 2 x batteries connected by the battery isolator (because it's in parallel)
but . . . .
now you have DOUBLE the Amps - to power all those 12v accessories
( of course that is assuming you have 2 identical batteries
now are we are getting just a bit too techie for some grrr )


Isn't it nice when people are respectful :-))
and ask the questions with a polite attitude !!
they then acquire all the answers they n e e d !!

ps,
Willie, truly sorry about the incorrect spelling of the name
please forgive me, I assure you it was purely accidental
Mainey
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FollowupID: 530836

Follow Up By: nthshorelad - Saturday, Oct 27, 2007 at 19:13

Saturday, Oct 27, 2007 at 19:13
Ended up going with a calcium based deep cycle 130 ah similar to the trojan i think but a maintainance free one from a local distrituter here in sydney only cost 210 but have been testing it at home now for 3days and it hasnt missed a beat... True test will be on the open road though .. but does come with 12month warranty even grabbed a 8amp-12amp smart charger 3 stage from the same mob for 110 (deal with the battery) recommended to charge it just so no warranty issues with charger used and the like. Any ways ill let you guys no how i go and im sure if there is any probs with it this will be the first place to here about it!
cheers beau
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FollowupID: 531337

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