thermocouple on chescold f40 fridge freezer

Submitted: Friday, Nov 16, 2007 at 14:49
ThreadID: 51676 Views:6973 Replies:2 FollowUps:4
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Hi

I have just bought second hand an older chescold f40 fridge freezer mark 2. The thermcouple is outputting 16 millivolts which is not sufficient to hold the gas safety valve open 80% of the time. Does anyone know how many millivolts the thermocouple should be putting out when operating 100% If anyone can answer this I will be impressed but here goes. Otherwise the unit works great.

thanks Kc
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Reply By: Mike Harding - Friday, Nov 16, 2007 at 16:24

Friday, Nov 16, 2007 at 16:24
Not sure what the Chescolds use but there are two basic options:

a thermopile (basically multiple thermocouples) and iirc they usually output about 300mV.

a mercury sensor which activates a gas valve via pressure.

How are you measuring the voltage? Measuring in the mV range can be tricky.

Mike Harding
AnswerID: 272043

Follow Up By: kcandco - Friday, Nov 16, 2007 at 20:39

Friday, Nov 16, 2007 at 20:39
Thanks Mike
I am measuring with a dick smith multimeter. This thermocouple is made with the insulated positive wire running through the middle of a copper tube with the copper tube acting as the earth. According to web info this type typically output 14 - 30 millivolts). I place the probes of the meter on the tip of the thermocouple (+) which makes physical contact with the electromagnet in the gas safety valve and earth to the copper tube itself. I have experimented by repositioning the probe in the flame to a slightly different position and am now achieving 16.9 - 17 millivolts. I am using the 200m setting on the meter and have tried several positions, pressures etc and am getting a very consistent reading. Since moving the probe and obtaining a better voltage I now find the electromagnet is now much happier to seat. I would like to have a little more voltage but will probably be happy with the result as is. The thermostat is working with the gas flame reducing to 'pilot' at 0.2 C. The pilot flame is quite small so I am now worried about it blowing out while in the pilot position. Do you know if this can be increased (slightly would do). I notice a small screw on the side of the thermostat and wonder if it may adjust the pilot).I also note that the later models ie the f400 have less slots at the rear of the unit near where the flame is located and am wondering if fitting a plate at the rear to reduce ventilation (around the flame only) would help in avoiding the pilot blowing out. Comments would be welcome.
regards Kc
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FollowupID: 535216

Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Saturday, Nov 17, 2007 at 14:39

Saturday, Nov 17, 2007 at 14:39
Hi Kc

Sound like it is a single thermocouple and, without digging out my tables of thermocouple voltages, 17mV sounds in the right ball park; however the Chescold fridges don't run a "Pilot light" as such, I believe the thermocouple is purely for safety purposes in case the flame blows out. Temperature control is achieved by varying the intensity of the flame manually with the control knob - afaik?

>The thermostat is working with the gas flame reducing to
>'pilot' at 0.2 C.

I don't understand the above?

My aged Finch 3 way is missing the protection plate around the burner but I rarely have problems with the flame blowing out, on very windy days I place something in front of the burner to protect it. I'll be interested to see how my new "blue" Chescold fairs in similar conditions.

Garth: don't forget cold junction compensation when measuring with thermocouples.

Mike Harding
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FollowupID: 535358

Follow Up By: kcandco - Sunday, Nov 18, 2007 at 22:25

Sunday, Nov 18, 2007 at 22:25
Thanks Mike for your help. The flame is at full blaze while the unit is cooling to the required setting, in this case with the knob at 9 oclock, the temp reaches approximately 0.2 Celcius. At this stage the thermostat which according to the manual controls gas and 240v (not 12v) cuts in/out and the flame is reduced in size. When the temp rises a few degrees the thermostat then kicks in again and the flame goes back to full size untill the temp reaches 0.2C again and the flame reduces to a "pilot" flame. It then continues on this cycle.

I have yesterday bought a Chescold F400 (Green plastic case) in really good condition from neighbours so will use this while tinkering with the older f40, time permitting.
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FollowupID: 535688

Reply By: Member - Garth J (NSW) - Saturday, Nov 17, 2007 at 08:00

Saturday, Nov 17, 2007 at 08:00
kcandco,

I'm into instrumentation and process control so here's my 2 cents of knowledge on your possible problems.

Sounds like the t/c is working so the mV output is governed by how much heat its detecting. If you measure the millivolts and know what type of t/c it is (cause there are different metal combinations used) you can get a set of tables and convert to a reading in deg c.

Place the tip of the t/c in the blue part of the flame. This is the hottest part.

The screw you talk of may be an air/gas ratio adjustment and this would be for the main flame.

The pilot may be partially blocked and hence you are not getting a good flame and thus no heat and then not retaining the pickup so the main flame cannot be started.

I don't know how many mV you need but I think you just need some fine tuning of the positioning of the t/c in the flame and or the pilot flame itself. The flame temp would typically be about 600 deg c.

Cheers
Garth
AnswerID: 272143

Follow Up By: kcandco - Sunday, Nov 18, 2007 at 22:32

Sunday, Nov 18, 2007 at 22:32
Thanks Garth

You have raised a good point, if the tip of the tc is not in the blue part of the pilot flame there may be insufficient voltage to keep the safety valve open. What I may have witnessed was not the pilot flame being blown out by the wind but the safety valve cutting the gas supply due to lack of voltage. As you said I will have to experiment more with the positioning of the tc. I will start there and see how i go. Maybe the size of the pilot flame is not a problem at all!!

regards kc
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FollowupID: 535691

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