winch with snatch block advice

Submitted: Friday, Nov 30, 2007 at 21:35

ThreadID: 52136 Views:4541 Replies:5 FollowUps:1

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Member - nigel P (NSW)

Probably dumb question, but too hard for me. Using a hi lift as a jack, and wanting to use a snatch block to reduce effort. I get the theory about the snatch block at the winch point (tree, or whatever), with cable return to vehicle.
Now, my question: could you use the snatch block ín line', so to speak. that is, could you go vehicle, hi lift (with winch kit ) then cable to snatch block, then snatch block to strap to winch point (tree etc). If so, what point would the cable return attach to?
What I am trying to do is reduce the amount of cable that I have to carry, esp. given that the hi lift will only go about a metre at a time. If I do the snatch block at the tree, obviously (?) the length required will be to match the return length,.
Clear as mud? Dumb question? Link to a winch advice site?
nigel
ps I know that the hi lift is the least efficient of the winch options, but I don't get bogged v. often, and it's reserve option after the Max trax, which I have found great.

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Reply By: Stu050 - Friday, Nov 30, 2007 at 22:58

Friday, Nov 30, 2007 at 22:58

The cable would anchor on to the vehicle. (I think)

Using a snatch block will effectively double the amount of cable that you would need, as you now have an additional line.
Effort however, will be halved, although it will take twice as long to get the vehicle out of the bog. Using a snatch block, your 1 metre at a time on the hi lift will become 1/2 metre on each of the cables.

HTH

AnswerID: 274465

Reply By: Dave from P7OFFROAD Accredited Driver Training - Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 00:55

Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 00:55

Yes, you could do all of this. You would have to run the return of teh cable back to the vehicle of course.

Your scenario presents a couple of difficulties however.

The first is that your 'winch' is now moving, with each stroke it is in a slightly different place (it's moving forward with the car) albeit only a couple of centimeters, so you will constantly need to be moving too.

The second is that you will have to 'reset' your rig after every 50 cms or so, if you are using cable then you will either need to also use a rated chain (that allows a huge variety of different lengths) or you will need a strandvice or similar, plus the need to chock the wheels between each 'reset'.

I like your theory, in reducing the load, but i think that you will end up needing more gear rather than less and that after a couple of 'resets' you will ditch it and go back to using an extension strap or chain.

Cheers

AnswerID: 274478

Follow Up By: Member - Shane D (QLD) - Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 16:36

Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 16:36

If you use the snatch block on the vehicle, end of cable (hook) at anchor point, winch also at same/nearby another anchor point will get around the moving winch.
Shane

FollowupID: 538151

Reply By: Mike Harding - Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 17:39

Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 17:39

Hi Nigel

I'm afraid I didn't understand any of your question :) except that it had something to do with snatch blocks... maybe this site will help?

Snatch Block Basics

Mike Harding

AnswerID: 274559

Reply By: Mikee5 (Logan QLD) - Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 18:57

Saturday, Dec 01, 2007 at 18:57

Hi Nigel,
I think I understand what you are asking so here is my solution.
Fix a single cable (cable A) from vehicle to snatch block eye. Fix a single cable (cable B) to anchor point, run this through pulley of snatch block and run free end back towards anchor point. Attach one end of jack to anchor point and other end of jack to free end of returning cable. As you say the jack only moves a short way so cable B need only be 3 to 4 metres long, while cable A is up to you - you will need some method of varying the length of cable A as you bring the vehicle nearer. (A combination of wire and chain comes to mind). Hope this makes sense to you.

AnswerID: 274569