Tuesday, Dec 04, 2007 at 20:09
Details are:
This mod involves cutting 1 wire on the back of fuse panel and moving it 1 inch so that it is operated by the accessory relay instead of the ignition relay.
GETTING to back of fuse panel
Lots of cables plug into the back of the fuse panel but with a bit of work it can be edged forward just enough to get access to the wire concerned.
1/ Remove the cover panel that goes under the steering wheel - think 4 self tapper screws.
2/ Looking at fuse panel - it is held by 2 10mm screws at the top, take them out.
It is also held at bottom LHS by a plastic tab, with small screwdriver lift tab an ease base of fuse panel forward an inch.
3/ The fuse panel will still not pull straight forward as it is held at the top by 2 plastic hooks. If you push it to the right 10mm it will unhook and come forward out of its mounts.
4/ Now the bonnet release catch and the bracket that holds the white diagnostics plug need to be unbolted and pushed to one side (3 bolts total).
The fuse panel and its cables can now be edged forward 100mm or so.
5/ Lean the top of the fuse panel forward. On the top RHS at the back is a
grey plug.
The wire we cut is the red/yellow stripe in this top RHS plug.
I cut
mine with about 1cm of wire left in the plug just in case I wanted to return the car to standard sometime.
A few wires to the left of the red/yellow wire, and in the same plug, you will see a fatter green/red stripe wire. This green/red wire runs the Cig Lighter via fuse NO.13 (7.5amp)
Splice the cut red/yellow wire into the green/red one. Solder them together , and cover with tape.
6/ Apart from putting the car back together this is all you have to do. But switch on accessories and check windows work before re-
assembling.
SOME POINTS
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You could wire the red/yellow cut wire straight back to battery via a series switch also, or you could use diodes etc off another line for different operation modes.
But you cannot wire straight to the battery because the power window circuit draws 1 or 2 amps constantly and this would eventually flatten your battery.
The modifyied power window circuit now uses fuse 13 which drives cig. lighter. No change should be required here but some people change this fuse to a heavy one, say 15 amps anyway because they use it for other things as
well.
The power for the windows does not flow thru the red/yellow wire, this wire just powers up the system via a power window relay which is located next to the ventilation fan on the opposite side of the car.
(Another way you could do this mod things is to cut red/yellow wire at this relay and loom over to cig. lighter etc)
The modification also allows door & window locks to operate off
accessory line.
Hope that helps some of you. I got this information somewhere on the net and used it.... it isnt
mine!! But I have found it really useful when out as you dont need to turn the key all the way to on (and have fuel pumped from your sub
tank) just to wind up the windows!
Took me about an hour to do from start to finish.
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