Window By-Pass Operation.

Submitted: Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 18:32
ThreadID: 52207 Views:2376 Replies:5 FollowUps:5
This Thread has been Archived
Has anyone out there performed the mod listed on here a while back to enable the widows to be wound down with the key off. (2007 Nissan patrol with electric windows)?

I did the mod today, simple remove cover of the armrest "t" in to get power then join two wires after cutting them to the "t" in wire.

Works great but I noticed that the indicator light ( in the drivers door control) stays lit. Does this mean that it is drawing current all the time?
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: DesF - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:33

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:33
Hi, are the wires alive in the door control with the ignition switched off?. Cheers Des/
AnswerID: 274826

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:52

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:52
Yes...... there is a constantly alive wire in the door. What this mod does is to jump that power over to the circuit so that you can operate the 4 electric windows at ANY time without the need to have the key in the ignition. The light in the switch for the driver's door stays lit at all times, but I don't think it would use much power (probably no more than the clock).

I did the same mod several months ago and it's great. It only works on the switches on the drivers door.

There's no reason why you couldn't install another small switch to cut the power to the circuit if you were concerned about it being alive all the time, but I don't see that as being necessary.

I went to do the same mod on my mate's 1999 model Patrol a couple of months ago and was surprised to find the wiring circuit on the driver's door was totally different, so I didn't do the conversion (as I didn't know which wire/s to cut and join etc.
0
FollowupID: 538495

Reply By: DesF - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:57

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 19:57
Thanks for the reply Roachie, my Pajero doesn't seem to have a live wire, so i guess I will have to experiment with it, thanks again Des.
AnswerID: 274836

Follow Up By: Ken - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:24

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:24
Des, I'm keen to know how to do it for a disabled friend's NL Paj. He sometimes get left in the car for a short time with the ignition off and would like to be able to open a window as he now can in my Patrol.
If you figure it out can you post here please.
Ken
0
FollowupID: 538514

Reply By: Wheatbelt Wayne - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 20:44

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 20:44
I changed mine so that it works with the key in the accessory position. All the windows work from their own switch. That way you can leave someone in the car listening to the radio and they can control their own window.

If anyone wants the details I'll post them here!
Cheers

Wayne

Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

AnswerID: 274847

Follow Up By: Bonswar - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:08

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:08
Yeah Wayne...I'd be keen to hear how you did it!

Cheers,
Paul.
0
FollowupID: 538509

Follow Up By: Member - GeeTee (NT) - Tuesday, Dec 04, 2007 at 09:11

Tuesday, Dec 04, 2007 at 09:11
Yep Wayne I would be interested in how you did that as a comparison.
0
FollowupID: 538561

Follow Up By: Wheatbelt Wayne - Tuesday, Dec 04, 2007 at 20:09

Tuesday, Dec 04, 2007 at 20:09
Details are:

This mod involves cutting 1 wire on the back of fuse panel and moving it 1 inch so that it is operated by the accessory relay instead of the ignition relay.

GETTING to back of fuse panel

Lots of cables plug into the back of the fuse panel but with a bit of work it can be edged forward just enough to get access to the wire concerned.

1/ Remove the cover panel that goes under the steering wheel - think 4 self tapper screws.
2/ Looking at fuse panel - it is held by 2 10mm screws at the top, take them out.
It is also held at bottom LHS by a plastic tab, with small screwdriver lift tab an ease base of fuse panel forward an inch.

3/ The fuse panel will still not pull straight forward as it is held at the top by 2 plastic hooks. If you push it to the right 10mm it will unhook and come forward out of its mounts.

4/ Now the bonnet release catch and the bracket that holds the white diagnostics plug need to be unbolted and pushed to one side (3 bolts total).
The fuse panel and its cables can now be edged forward 100mm or so.

5/ Lean the top of the fuse panel forward. On the top RHS at the back is a grey plug.
The wire we cut is the red/yellow stripe in this top RHS plug.
I cut mine with about 1cm of wire left in the plug just in case I wanted to return the car to standard sometime.

A few wires to the left of the red/yellow wire, and in the same plug, you will see a fatter green/red stripe wire. This green/red wire runs the Cig Lighter via fuse NO.13 (7.5amp)

Splice the cut red/yellow wire into the green/red one. Solder them together , and cover with tape.

6/ Apart from putting the car back together this is all you have to do. But switch on accessories and check windows work before re-
assembling.

SOME POINTS
-----------
You could wire the red/yellow cut wire straight back to battery via a series switch also, or you could use diodes etc off another line for different operation modes.
But you cannot wire straight to the battery because the power window circuit draws 1 or 2 amps constantly and this would eventually flatten your battery.

The modifyied power window circuit now uses fuse 13 which drives cig. lighter. No change should be required here but some people change this fuse to a heavy one, say 15 amps anyway because they use it for other things as well.

The power for the windows does not flow thru the red/yellow wire, this wire just powers up the system via a power window relay which is located next to the ventilation fan on the opposite side of the car.
(Another way you could do this mod things is to cut red/yellow wire at this relay and loom over to cig. lighter etc)

The modification also allows door & window locks to operate off
accessory line.



Hope that helps some of you. I got this information somewhere on the net and used it.... it isnt mine!! But I have found it really useful when out as you dont need to turn the key all the way to on (and have fuel pumped from your sub tank) just to wind up the windows!

Took me about an hour to do from start to finish.
Cheers

Wayne

Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 538668

Reply By: Ken - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:21

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 21:21
GT, Go to the Patrol forum and do a search, there is all the info there to do it. Simply putting in the bypass results in a small current draw of approx 300 mA. I understand from the post. Not a lot but if you don't use the vehicle often it could be a problem.
I put a switch in with a flashing LED, to show it is on, to ensure there isn't a constant draw. Works on all windows.

Ken
AnswerID: 274852

Reply By: Member - GeeTee (NT) - Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 22:48

Monday, Dec 03, 2007 at 22:48
Thanks Roachie and others for your replies. Looks like a switch with a LED might be the way to go.
AnswerID: 274870

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (9)