12 volt, Battery, Fridge... in that order

Ahhh Ms Lucy

I wrote " Fridge is hardwired with 6mm wire with inline fuse "

The power drain must be somewhere beteen the battery and the fridge connection. But how? Only thing I can think of is that there is a loose connection soemwhere inside the fridge.

Cheers ma'am

Yeah! Willie. I am with you on the hard wired thing, thats why I suggested that you 'test' the fridge operation (cooling) by disconnecting the Looooong hard wired cable and connecting the fridge direct to a battery with a real short cable.

If appropriate - take the fridge to the battery or if easier take the battery to the fridge. Use a short 6mm connect cable (no fuse/e etc for the test) and see if the sucker fires up and runs correctly.

If so - THEN you know it is definitely in the Loooooong cable plus connectors and or fuses etc.

If not - Then its in the appliance.

Don't give up - stick at it.

For once I agree with Lucky.....up to a point.

The other thing to check is the integrity of the battery. I know, I know..... you've already said that the battery shows 14.6v at the fridge end as well as the battery terminals. HOWEVER, if the battery has an internal "issue", it is possible that it can give good readings at rest, but as soon as a load is applied, it buckles under the "ask" and fails to provide. (think of it in the same way as yourself after a hard night......you climb outa bed and may _look_ like you do any other morning.....but try to lift something heavier than a strong cup of coffee and you'll be feeling as though you have to go straight back to bed....hahaha)

Soooo, what about connecting a bright light (like a hand-held spot light) or maybe a "good" quality air compressor (under load) onto the battery and see if the battery can provide power for that heavy-draw appliance for any length of time; also measure the output of the battery with a multimeter whilst doing that experiment.

Other than that? Yeh, sounds like the wiring/plugs/connections (eg: dry solder joint at a terminal etc)

Cheers blokes

Roachie

Bill

Hard nights are few and far between at my age.....lol

Yeah, it could be the battery. It is OEM battery with no name and 4 years of age and probably on its way out. Fridge worked well off the battery before. Will test battery under load as you suggest(hope I don't electrocute myself...lol)

Cheers

Thanks Matt

Sounds plausible. Was going to take the fridge to the authorised repairman next time I go town.

Is it possible to change the fuse myself? Had a look at the back of the fridge but haven't been able to see how to remove the power input module.

Cheers

Willem,

I wouldn't try it, but I am an electrical incompetent. I believe that it is soldered to the main board, so could be a bit fiddly. It took the repairman an hour or so to do mine and test it, no problems since then.

BTW does it get worse as ambient temp goes up? Mine certainly did that as the temp of the fuse itself worsens the problem. Might be a pointer to what is wrong if that is the case.

Matt.

Matt...yep the problem is most ;like;y whaty you describe.

Will take it to service agent when I get a chance.

Thanks


Cheers

Hi Mike

Noticed that to and wondered if measurements were made when compressor had switched off.

Robin Miller

GDay Willem. It could be the fuse hoder or fuse with corrosion or dampness causing a poor connection in the long cable? Maybe dust has seeped in. If you have a new fuse it could be worth a try. Some of those inline fuse holders are a bit dodgy.

Zero voltage drop loaded or unloaded,need to check earths etc etc.

To eliminate the vehicle wiring as the problem, disconnect the fridge and connect another 5 amp load like a 55 watt headlamp globe.

See if the voltage remains constant if you leave the load on for 15 minutes.

Ahhh.... Luminaries everywhere....lol...thanks fellas

A. I measured the voltage at the end of the power wire. Not able to measure voltage when compressor is running.(or rather don't know how to)

B. In-line fuse-holder and fuse is new

C. Unable to test 6mm wire as plug is dedicated for fridge unless I jerry-rig something up. Might blow the whole battery up doing that so better take fridge to specialist...lol


Cheers

Willem,
""Power output at battery terminals 14.16 volts
Power output at fridge 14.16 volts""


So your 12 volt battery is . . . 14.16 volts ?


Was the 'Voltage' measured when connected to a Solar panel, or with engine running?

Mainey

Vehicle has only single battery

14.16 volts at end of wire where it plugs into the fridge with engine running at idle.

In a previous post I made a typo(14.6)

Cheers

Fridge belongs to SWMBO. Would you dare??? I doubt it. I am sure your SWMBO wields an iron fist.....lol

The fridge?
Or.......

SWMBO .. no . no she the income.... LOL

You been sucking the end of your lead pencil again, Richard Kovac......LOL

G'day John

Ows tings? lol

I have triple checked the wiring and the voltage at the end of the wire is 14.6 before it goes into the fridge. So the problem seems to be from there onwards.

Cheers

.... 14.6Ov or 14.16v ??

the voltage " numbers " are relevant

G'day John and Willie,

I think the method you've been using to check the voltage at the end of the cable is to apply a multimeter to the end of the cable with the fridge unplugged; is that right?

If so, what John is suggesting, is to get yourself (for example) an old sealed beam headlight and using a couple of short lengths of 6mm cable with aligator clips, jerry-rig (or is the term "jury-rig"?) the light to take the place of the fridge. Now, you have a simulated "load" and if there is a problem at the in-line fuse or anywhere else along the supply line, this should show it up. If the light glows brightly and continuously, your wiring should be okay.

Cheers

Roachie

Thanks

Quite a comprehensive website

Cheers